Petunia Surfinia: Surfinia varieties, location and care

With their wonderful trumpet flowers, petunias have a long tradition in our gardens. Different varieties vie diligently for the favor of the viewer. In the summer there are ideally more flowers on each plant than leaves. Petunia Serfinia is a special cultivation that offers the flower cluster even under less than optimal conditions. Read here what care drives this hybrid to bloom.

Growth and flowering

In the native language of Brazil, petun means tobacco. In fact, the petunia is also related to the tobacco plant. It originally comes from tropical South America. Its abundance of flowers carried it out into the world early on. The enthusiasm for this flowering miracle has meanwhile also given rise to hybrid varieties that thrive better in our latitudes. This also includes the Japanese variety Petunia Surfinia.

• standing varieties reach a height of about 30 cm
• hanging varieties form tendrils up to a meter long
• are extremely willing to grow
• cope better with rain
• bloom within just 6 to 8 weeks
• large, funnel-shaped flowers
•  Flowering time is from June
• pre-grown plants will also flower earlier
• large selection of strong flower colors
• Multi-colored flowers are also possible

Popular varieties

The Surfinie is commercially available in many different varieties. The visible difference is the color of the flowers. But the individual varieties also differ from one another in other characteristics, such as flower size, growth habit and sensitivity to cold. Below are some popular varieties sorted by flower color.

• White: Bright Dream, White,
• Blue: Blue, Sky Blue, Happy Sophia, Blue vein
• Red: Red, Ratio Red, Burgundy, Giant purple
• Yellow: Victorian Yellow, yellow
• Pink: Hot red, Hot pin, Pink vein, Pastel, Repens Pink Star
• Violet: Amethyst, Purple, Purple var
• tricolor: Celebration Carnival (yellow, blue and red)

Location

All petunia varieties like the sun and the warmth that comes with it. The hybrid variety Petunia Surfinia is no exception. Shady places interfere with their development due to a lack of light. You should be spared these bloom masters. Every now and then raindrops are a natural part of an outdoor location. The Surfinia copes with it much better than conventional varieties. Nevertheless, a place protected from the rain is more advantageous for her and should be made available to her if possible. In the play of the forces of nature, hanging varieties are also at the mercy of the wind, which handles their long shoots very roughly. Since the wind unfortunately cannot be canceled, a sheltered location has to be found for this type of surfing.

• loves it sunny and warm
• does not like shade, then powdery mildew threatens
• a lack of light also inhibits flower formation
• the ideal location is protected from rain and wind
• only put outdoors in the frost-free season

Note: On the one hand, a very sunny petunia delights with a flood of flowers. On the other hand, water has to be constantly replenished. Watering should seldom be "forgotten" for a day.

Substrate

When entering a garden center, it is not uncommon for you to accumulate over the amount of soil mixes on offer. A special substrate can be found for almost every type of plant, including the petunia. This takes into account the expectations that this plant has of its soil. It should be a little sour, then she feels at home and comfortable in it. If you don't want to buy this mostly more expensive ready-mix, you can easily create an acidic environment yourself. Normal potting soil, which is additionally enriched, serves as the basis.

• normal potting soil as a base
• nutrient-rich and permeable
• Add about the same amount of bog soil
• pH 5.5 is optimal

Tip: Pure potting soil has also proven itself with petunias, but good quality is essential here. Only then will it be good for the petunia.

plants

Late spring is the right time to plant petunias. It is only from mid-May that the plants are no longer exposed to the icy threat of frost. The hybrid Petunia Surfinia is less sensitive to frost. You can start the gardening season a little earlier. It usually survives any late night frosts well. Petunias appear more voluminous and impressive in the company of other petunias, which is why several plants are often planted in one container. However, their roots like to spread, so they should not be planted too closely. If several types of petunia grow together, it must be ensured that the varieties harmonize well with one another in terms of their requirements.

• 2 to 3 plants per hanging basket
• per large flower box approx. 5 plants
• Roots need space, do not plant them too closely
• Planting distance should be at least 15 cm
• they like water but don't like waterlogging
• Drainage layer in the vessel makes sense
• Use nutrient-rich, well-drained and slightly acidic soil
• Add slow release fertilizer
• add compost to upright cultivars outdoors

Tip: For the thirsty petunias, planters with a water reservoir are ideal. You can use it to supply yourself with water for a few days. So you can venture out on your own weekend trip with a clear conscience.

to water

Pour, pour and pour again. In the morning, in the evening and every day. At least in summer, on the particularly hot days. Every plant lover has to be prepared for this if he wants to bring this plant to full bloom. The petunia usually recovers quickly from a short dry phase. If it has to go through dry periods several times, it is permanently weakened and magically attracts diseases and pests.

• water regularly and abundantly
• twice a day at high temperatures
• morning and / or evening
• never pour in the blazing midday heat
• Use soft water, rainwater is recommended
• enrich hard water with some iron fertilizer
• Pour water on the ground or in the water reservoir
• do not wet the leaves or flowers when watering

Note: The ball of the earth should always be moist. When the earth dries out, yellow leaves follow in no time. The moisture must be kept even with a sense of proportion, it must not turn into waterlogging under any circumstances.

Fertilize

Petunias are very consuming plants. With their roots, they continuously suck nutrients from the soil around them. You should therefore expect a nutrient-rich mixture right from the start. Compost contributes to a secure supply, as does long-term fertilizers. Flowering plant fertilizer does the rest.

• nutrient-rich soil
• Work in slow release fertilizer
• Flowering plant fertilizer 1-2 times a week
• throughout the season

Tip: The best way to administer flowering plant fertilizer to the petunia is through the irrigation water.

Cut

All green shoots and the brightly colored flowers of the Surfinia are welcome, nothing has to be cut away. However, all withered parts of the plant should be removed consistently and promptly. For one thing, the plant only looks much nicer with plump flowers. On the other hand, removing what has faded always produces new flowers and shoots.

• Remove dead flowers and thus stimulate new growth
• Cut off the shoot tips if stronger branching is desired

Petunias, which have done their blooming work and are allowed to rest in winter quarters, now also require the secateurs.

• all petunias that are overwintered
• cut back before insertion
• Shorten all shoots to about 20 cm in length
• remove thin and weak shoots in spring

Multiply

Surfinia are hybrid plants that do not produce any or non-germinable seeds. The propagation of the Surfinia via seeds is therefore not possible. But they can easily be propagated using cuttings. And it works like this:

1. Cut off one or more shoots from the plant. These should be about 15 cm long.

2. Remove any flowers and buds that are still on.

3. Also leave only two leaves standing.

4. Place the cuttings in a glass with water so that they can take root first.

5. Once some roots have formed, pot the cuttings in.

Tip: After planting, clip the tips of the young petunias regularly to encourage branching. This will give you a nice, dense growth.

Diseases and pests

Breeding Petunia Sufinia produced a more robust plant, but this variety is still susceptible to pests. Therefore, pay close attention to possible signs so that you can react quickly. The following pests and diseases threaten petunia particularly often:

• Aphids
• Whitefly
• Powdery mildew
• different viruses

When the petunia is infected by viruses, parts of the plant gradually die off. Unfortunately, there is no effective remedy for this. Action can and should be taken against other diseases and pests. If the plant is not treated appropriately, it becomes prone to other diseases that can ultimately bring it down. It can also infect other plants.

• Nettle stock helps with aphids
• Soft soap solution is effective against aphids and whiteflies
• Yellow panels attract whiteflies
• A milk-water mixture in a ratio of 1: 9 combats powdery mildew

If you don't see any pests on your petunia, yellow leaves could also indicate a nutritional deficiency. Iron fertilizer quickly provides a remedy against so-called chlorosis.
Note: Diseased petunias that you can no longer save should never end up on the compost heap.

Overwinter

The fast growing petunias are usually grown as annual plants. But it is quite possible to overwinter the plant and bring it to bloom again the next year. Since the petunia varieties are not winter hardy, they have to withstand the cold season indoors.

• bright and cool room is ideal
• Room temperature should be 5 to 10 degrees
• Cut back all shoots strongly
• to a length of about 10 cm
• have to go to winter quarters before frost
• Water regularly even during hibernation
• but only with small amounts of water