Monstera aerial roots: can they be cut?

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table of contents

  • Function of the aerial roots
  • Adhesion and stabilization of the plant
  • Supply of water and nutrients
  • Simply cut off aerial roots?
  • Simply "redirect" roots
  • Eliminate causes

That Window leaf (Monstera deliciosa) is without a doubt one of the most popular classics among indoor plants. These representatives of the arum family (Araceae) are very easy to care for and therefore suitable for beginners. Their home is in the tropical rainforests of South and Central America. Over the years, Monsteras form long aerial roots, so they cling to climbing aids. Sometimes these roots can have a disruptive effect. But can they just be removed like that? More on this below.

Function of the aerial roots

In their homeland, the tropical plant climbs on large branches of trees towards the light. Heights of up to 25 meters are not uncommon here. But even in our living rooms, the evergreen climbing plant with its imposing up to 45 Centimeter wide and heart-shaped leaves up to three meters and, with good care, even higher will. To do this, however, she needs a climbing aid. The roots that are formed and hanging down from the trunk also play a decisive role here. These are not only responsible for the characteristic appearance of this plant, but also fulfill various functions.

Adhesion and stabilization of the plant

Larger and older plants in particular need the aerial roots for better stabilization and for a more secure hold in the tub or pot. Furthermore, there is a corresponding one for the increase in height Climbing aid necessary. The roots then adhere to these and can absorb moisture from the air. They are particularly suitable for this

  • Moss sticks
  • Trunks and branches with bark or
  • Trellis

Roots that are already in the air can simply be attached to it. If the plant has no way of attaching its aerial roots anywhere, it can quickly happen that the formation of new roots of this kind can reach an undesirable extent. In addition, these then also adhere to all kinds of objects.

Tip: Care should be taken when handling an aerial root. It can break very quickly, which can damage the plant.

Supply of water and nutrients

Especially in the case of a large monstera, the existing earth roots may no longer be able to completely cover the plant's need for water and nutrients. The window leaf then also forms aerial roots between the leaf axils. If there are already many aerial roots, these can simply be used to supply the Monstera. For example, a water container can be mounted on the plant pot and the aerial roots can be fed into it.

Note: An increased formation of the "additional roots" is usually due to an insufficient water and nutrient supply of the Monstera. The lack of climbing aids also accelerates the growth of aerial roots.

Monstera aerial root
Cryptosporella, Monstera deliciosa 4, Cut by Plantopedia, CC BY-SA 3.0

Simply cut off aerial roots?

Because of their functions, these roots should not be cut off if possible, even if they may be disturbing. Cutting off vital and bulging aerial roots can damage the monstera. Furthermore, this would only stimulate the formation of new such roots. However, there is also an exception here, damaged and dried-up roots should always be carefully removed from the plant. When cutting off the roots, however, a few things should be considered:

  • Use of sharp tools that have been disinfected in alcohol (knife or secateurs)
  • thereby preventing bacteria from entering the cut
  • Apply the cut directly to the stem axis
  • Cut off roots from top to bottom
  • Briefly cover the cut surface with a damp, hot cloth
  • thereby preventing the escape of sap
  • then cover the wound with rock flour or charcoal ash

Tip: Gloves should be worn during this treatment. It would also be advisable to cover the surface of the earth in the pot. The sap that escapes from this arum plant is poisonous and can quickly cause irritation of the mucous membranes.

These roots should only be cut off in an emergency and only if they are a few inches long. The removal of longer roots should be avoided if possible, because in the end only the entire plant will be damaged. However, it must be borne in mind that simply cutting off these roots is of no use if the causes of the increased growth are not eliminated. On the contrary, the growth of such roots would then only be supported and ultimately the Monstera can die.

Simply "redirect" roots

The roots on the stem axis can easily be converted into normal earth roots. All that is needed is sufficient moisture. In other words, the roots are simply planted in the ground. For this, roots come into question that are quite long and reach the surface of the pot. The procedure is as follows:

  • Lift the plant out of the pot
  • Remove the earth substrate
  • to do this, rinse the roots carefully
  • Choose a pot one or two sizes larger
  • Spread some fresh soil on the bottom of the pot
  • Insert the root ball
  • then carefully guide the aerial roots into the pot
  • cover with earth
  • fill up the rest of the soil
  • Leave the pouring edge
  • pour vigorously

After only a short time, tiny, fine hairs will form on the aerial roots of the Monstera and the root will develop into a normal earth root. In this way, the window leaf is additionally stabilized and firmly anchored in the ground. At the same time, the supply of the plant with water and nutrients can be improved.

Monstera
Lijealso, Monstera deliciosa, Cut by Plantopedia, CC BY 3.0

Tip: Alternatively, one or more aerial roots can also be introduced into the aquarium if it is available. The roots extract undesirable substances such as nitrate and nitrite from the water and use them for their own growth.

Eliminate causes

The formation of very long roots outside the earth are primarily due to incorrect care. These include water and nutrient deficiencies and also the lack of a climbing aid. The following preventive measures can help:

  • regular watering
  • Keep soil moderately moist all year round
  • Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth
  • Spray leaves and roots every 2 to 3 days
  • Use of lime-free, lukewarm water
  • optimal humidity between 50 and 60 percent
  • bright location, no direct sun
  • Temperatures around 20 degrees
  • Insert climbing aid (moss stick, trellis)
  • possibly repotting in fresh soil in March / April
  • fertilize weekly from March to August
  • Use of liquid fertilizer for green plants

In a suitable location and with optimal care, the excessive formation of long aerial roots hanging down from the trunk can be prevented.