properties
Crataegus monogyna is a widespread and popular species in the bonsai scene, because this species is characterized by vigorous growth and high vitality. The basic structure is reached quickly. Heckdorn quickly forms a strong attachment and strong branches, whereby the leaves are naturally rather small.
also read
- Common diseases in hawthorn and how to combat them
- Create a bonsai from the yew tree
- Bonsai design with a focus on the root
Beware of fungal diseases
The species is susceptible to being attacked by the hawthorn grating. This leads to the formation of deformed branches. In addition, the real one takes care mildew for a floury topping on the leaves that get brown spots and wither. In such cases, you need to generously cut off the affected parts of the plant and treat the entire tree with fungicides. Even if an infestation is over, there can be a relapse every year.
Design options
The wood allows numerous design styles, whereby strictly upright types or the broom shape are rather unusual. The shrub allows a lot from the upright design to semi-cascades, rock formations or landscapes.
Promote flowering
The promotion of a beautiful flower pile is not easy with the hawthorn, because the wood puts its energy into the growth and development of long shoots. The flowers arise on the short shoots and dry out quickly with suboptimal care. In this way, the flower volume dwindles over the years. You can remedy this by pinching after the flowering period. Prune the shoots of the strong branches so that the vigor is distributed over the weaker shoots. Make sure that the branches are arranged alternately.
Cutting techniques
In winter the tree is in the resting phase, so cutting interventions are recommended. In order for the cuts to heal more quickly, you should use scissors shortly before budding in March. Larger injuries take several years to heal completely. The design of floors is not a problem, because after intensive pruning, hawthorn develops plentiful shoots directly on the trunk.
How to do it:
- Shorten long shoots from a length of 15 centimeters to two or three leaves
- reduce the 10 centimeter long new shoot in old specimens
- Remove dead flowers and cut twigs back to one or two knots
- Remove disruptive and superfluous shoots on the main stem after they have emerged
Tips
A little practice is required when determining the direction of growth, because the remaining buds do not always sprout reliably after a cut.
Wires
The growth of strong-growing branches can be slowed down by using wires. Start this method after budding between May and June. Check the branches regularly and replace the windings if necessary. Completely remove the aluminum wire next spring.
