Pruning on buds - this is how to do it right
The pruning on buds is one of the basics of pruning technology. Once you are familiar with this technique, do the most important ones Types of cuts in the home garden with flying colors. As the name suggests, the Buds focus on the plant. In order for growth to continue as desired, the bud must neither be injured nor surmounted by a long stub. How to do it right:
- Cut 3 to 5 millimeters above a bud
- Slightly diagonally from eye cut away
- Support the shoot with your free hand
also read
- Types of shoots on woody plants - an overview for home gardeners
- Important types of pruning in wood care - an overview
- Cut thick shoots on astring - this is how it works
The illustration below shows three common mistakes and the correct cutting technique.
A technically flawless cut is made shortly above an outward-facing bud.
Cut on Astring - this is how it works
in the Astring there is valuable dividing tissue (cambium), which is located in callus transformed and gashes overgrown. One of the most important pruning techniques in wood care is aimed at the Astring not to be injured or disturbed by a long stub.
Place the saw above the bead-like thickening that marks the astring. Now saw or cut slightly diagonally towards the bottom and outside. Finally, smooth the edges of the wound with a knife or a hip. Please do not coat the cut Tree wax,(€ 18.62 at Amazon *) so that the wound wood can do its job without a blockage.
The astring must never be injured, otherwise the wound will not heal properly. If there is no astring, cut parallel to the trunk without twisting the bark.
Cones perks up unwilling trees - that's how it works
The tenon cut proves that cutting techniques cannot do without one exception. With it stubborn trees, like rhododendrons, Azaleas and sprout different types of pome fruit after a cut in the old wood, there is the cone cut. How to use the cutting technique expertly:
- Cut the shoot back to a 5 to 10 cm long cone with a side shoot or leaf
- Where there are no shoots or leaves, also on cones sleeping Cut eye
The figure below documents the cone cut on pome fruit. The thicker the shoot to be removed, the longer the cone can be. A lateral shoot or a leaf prevents the cone from drying out. At the same time, the plant parts ensure that water and nutrients continue to be supplied. In the next season, the plant will sprout from this point and the remains of the now dried out cone can be removed.
Conventional cutting rules are violated so that shrubs unwilling to sprout grow vigorously. If you leave a small cone with its leaf or shoot, rhododendrons will sprout again.
Cut old, thick branches in stages - step-by-step instructions
If you remove thick, old branches, there is a risk that they will break off while you are cutting, creating a large wound. You can prevent this damage by proceeding in stages. The following instructions explain the exemplary cutting technique step by step:
- Position the saw at a distance of 40 to 50 centimeters from the actual cut from below
- Saw the branch no more than the middle
- Pull out the saw and position it a little to the left or right from above
- Saw until the branch breaks off
It is thanks to this cutting technique that the trunk or main shoot remains unharmed. Cut off the remaining branch stump on astring while supporting it with your free hand.
Remove thick branches in several stages. First saw into the branch from below. Then saw against it from the top until the branch breaks. Finally, cut off the stub on Astring.
Tips
The perfect cutting technique will only achieve its goal if you use sharp, clean blades and saw blades. Clean and disinfect the tool before and after each use so that you do not transmit any pathogens to your trees. You should use the scissor blades at least once a season sharpen and replace blunt saw blades.