Pulling basil in the pot: care from A-Z

Basil (Ocimum basilicum), also called royal herb, is a versatile and indispensable herb for many. Hardly any tomato dish can do without this herb. The originally Mediterranean herb can be grown well in pots or tubs. It is predominantly cultivated as an annual, although some robust varieties can also be kept for several years. Cultivation and care are unproblematic as long as you pay attention to a few things.

Characteristics

• Plant family: Mint family (Lamiaceae)
• Botanical name: Ocimum basilicum
• German names: basil, royal herb
• Origin: Asia
• Habit: annual to persistent herbaceous
• Growth height: depending on the variety, 20-60 cm
• Flowering period: June to September
• Harvest: from May
• Usage: aromatic plant
• Toxicity: not toxic
• Limescale tolerance: tolerates lime

Growing basil

sowing

Basically, basil can be grown all year round. However, since the light conditions are no longer optimal in autumn and winter, spring and summer are better suited for sowing. The chances of survival even sown plants are much higher than those of the bought specimens. The seeds needed can be obtained from existing plants, provided they are allowed to bloom. However, basil usually dies after flowering, so you should be able to do without this one plant. Otherwise, the trade also offers appropriate seeds for sowing.

• Fill small pots with potting soil and moisten them
• Pot diameter of at least 10 cm
• Spread seeds evenly on the substrate and press lightly
• Do not cover with soil, light germs
• About 10 seeds per pot
• Light, warmth and a uniformly moist substrate are necessary for germination
• Put in a warm place with lots of light, without the blazing midday sun
• Germination at temperatures between 20 and 25 degrees within a few days

From a size of 5-10 cm or two pairs of leaves can be separated. You choose the strongest plants and use 7-8 per pot. This is followed by careful watering. Now you can go to a sunny spot on the windowsill or outside from the end of May.

Cuttings

As an alternative to sowing, basil can also be grown from cuttings. This should only be taken from healthy plants with lush green leaves and shoots without a flower base.

• Cuttings should be 10-15 cm long
• Cut briefly below the leaf roots
• Remove leaves in the lower area
• Place cuttings in a glass of room temperature water to root
• A little charcoal in the water can prevent rot
• Place the water glass in a warm, partially shaded window seat
• Renew the water every day if possible
• Root formation usually after a few days
• Plant rooted cuttings

One rooted cuttings are planted in small pots with a diameter of about 9 cm. After planting, they are placed in a tall, water-filled bowl so that the substrate can easily absorb water. The pots should be about 5 cm deep in the water. You can then move them to a sunny spot in the living room or outside.

Location

Planting basil in a pot has a number of advantages, including when choosing a location. Potted basil is flexible so that the location can be changed at any time, for example to protect against heavy rain or cold drafts. This plant originally comes from warm climes and should therefore also be as warm and sunny as possible here. A covered space in front of a southern wall is ideal. Temperatures below ten degrees are problematic for this herb. Because of this, they should only go outside when the temperatures are consistently above 10 degrees. Cold drafts should be avoided, but good ventilation should be ensured.

Substrate

As far as the substrate is concerned, basil has a special position. While the majority of all herbal plants require a rather poor substrate, basil is one of the so-called strong eaters, so that nutrient-poor substrate is completely unsuitable. The royal herb grows best in nutrient-rich, humus to calcareous, well-drained and fresh to moist soil with a pH value of 6.5 to 7.5. A structurally stable substrate is important. Commercially available compost-based potting soil is recommended, the permeability of which is optimized by adding sand or perlite.

Care instructions

Königskraut is comparatively easy to care for. When growing or The main focus of care is a regular supply of water and nutrients. Gross mistakes can quickly damage this plant.

to water

If you want to grow basil, you should focus on a balanced water balance, which plays a central role in its cultivation and development. This involves both the pouring amount and the correct pouring technique. Basil is a very thirsty plant and needs to be watered daily. It should always be poured from below, for example over a coaster and under no circumstances over the leaves.

Alternatively, you can place the pot in a container of room temperature water for about 20 minutes so that the substrate and roots can absorb enough water. Excess water is then allowed to run off. Before the next watering, the substrate should dry slightly.

Fertilize

To meet the high need for nutrients, basil in the pot can be supplied with a liquid fertilizer on a weekly basis. In addition, horn shavings or horn grit are available, which have the same effect as a long-term fertilizer. Freshly repotted specimens must be fertilized for the first time after 4-6 weeks at the earliest. Fresh earth is usually pre-fertilized so that the nutrient supply is ensured for the first few weeks.

Tip: Since basil is usually grown for consumption, only organic fertilizers should be used.

Cut

The pruning of this herb is also part of the maintenance, whereby it is primarily used for the harvest. Basil has a strong growth. Targeted pruning promotes a bushier habit. It should maintain and promote health and vitality. In addition, the right cut prevents blooming.

• Cutting too timidly is counterproductive
• Shoots bald and eventually die
• This weakens the entire plant
• Always cut the shoot tips at least 5 cm deep
• Ideally, always cut off entire shoots
• At least one pair of eyes should stop
• Make the cut a few millimeters above a pair of leaves
• This promotes better branching of the plant
• In the beginning, only pluck off individual leaves or shoot tips from young plants
• Then grow back more vigorously

With a regular, deep cut, the plant will develop more leaves. If you cut regularly and correctly, there is nothing to be said against just picking off a few individual leaves as a small snack in between.

Overwinter

Perennial types of basil in pots can be overwintered without any problems, they are usually more robust and resistant than annual varieties. In general, the right choice of varieties creates the best conditions for successful wintering. There are also differences between home-sown and purchased basil plants. The latter usually do not survive the first winter.

If the basil has spent the summer outdoors, it should be indoors as soon as temperatures drop below 12 degrees. The winter should be protected from cold drafts, warm and bright, also sunny, at temperatures between 15 and 20 degrees. Locations directly above a heater should be avoided as the air is too dry here. Since the plants are now in a kind of winter dormancy, there is significantly less watering. The substrate should always dry before every watering. Fertilizer is only given every 4-6 weeks in winter.

Tip: Types of basil that are particularly suitable for perennial cultivation are z. B. the green-leaved African basil 'African Green', African tree basil, red-blue African basil 'African Blue', garden basil and Russian Bush basil and the 'wild purple' variety.

Repot

Basil sold in pots in stores often wilts after just a few days. Reasons for this can be, for example, a depleted substrate or a planter that is too narrow. In addition, these plants are raised in the shortest possible time so that they look fresh and healthy in stores. In fact, however, they are anything but vital and hardened, because actually that's nothing more than horny growth.

• Immediately after purchase, cuff or Remove the plastic film from the pot
• Moisture builds up behind the film and can lead to the formation of mold
• Then take the plant out of the pot
• Then in four to six sections or Divide tufts
• Plant individually in small pots with a suitable substrate
• Preferably use plastic pots
• Clay or terracotta pots would remove water from the plants
• The porous material makes it easier for water to evaporate

Tip: If you have basil in a bucket next to it tomatoes or paprika plants, they can reinforce each other in their aromas.

Diseases and pests

Under optimal conditions, diseases are actually not an issue for this herb. If the otherwise lush green leaves are unattractively spotted, there is an urgent need for action. Usually it is a fungal infection that can be caused by different fungi.

Lucerne mosaic virus

One virus that can be dangerous to basil is the so-called Lucerne mosaic virus (alfa mosaic virus). It is often caused by dirty or transmit infected cutting tools. Aphids and thrips are also possible vectors. The first symptoms of a virus infection are lightened leaf veins and mosaic-like speckled leaves. As the process progresses, the leaves are deformed and the plant dies.

Control is neither biologically nor chemically possible, and chemical agents should be avoided anyway if the herb or vegetable in question is intended for consumption. Infested plants must be completely disposed of in order to prevent transmission to neighboring ones.

There are a few things that can be done as a preventative measure to better protect the following plants. To do this, you should consistently take action against pests such as aphids and thrips. Furthermore, when buying seeds, you should pay attention to certified quality seeds, because seeds can already be infected with this virus.

Leaf spot disease (Septoria species)

Leaf spot disease is caused by the spores of the tubular fungal genus Septoria and occurs primarily in warm, humid weather. It manifests itself in the form of brownish necroses (dying plant tissue) and deformities of the leaves. Ultimately, these dry up and fall off. Direct control is not possible here either.

What you can do, however, is to remove infected shoots immediately at the first sign of a viral disease. The shoots are cut down to a pair of leaves. The plant should be isolated from healthy ones until it has recovered. If it does not recover, it must also be completely disposed of.

Tip: Blotchy leaves can also be an indication of incorrect watering behavior. For basil, it is vital not to pour over the leaves, but only from below, ideally over a coaster.

Aphids

Speckled, perforated, and sticky leaves can indicate an aphid infestation. They usually occur when it is very warm and dry. Vigorous showering upside down usually helps against a slight infestation. If it is already advanced, nettle broth can be helpful. Infested shoots should be cut out and disposed of. In addition, the use of adhesive boards and the use of natural predators such as ladybugs and predatory mites are recommended.

Thrips

Thrips can be recognized by their black and white striped wings. They leave silvery traces of suction on and small crumbs of excrement under the leaves. If the infestation is advanced, the leaves are heavily speckled. Since thrips, like aphids, are suspected of transmitting viruses, it is important to control them.

This pest is particularly comfortable in warm, dry air, for example during the heating season. First you should isolate the plant again. A large part of the pests can then be eliminated through regular showering. The substrate should be covered beforehand. In addition, you can hang up blue boards and use beneficial insects such as the lacewing.