Plant blue fescue correctly
Preferred in the container, you can Blue fescue Plant during the entire growing season as long as it does not freeze. Dig small pits at a distance of 20 cm in the sunny location. Enriching the excavation with compost or leaf earth is beneficial for the roots. The addition of sand and fine Grit(€ 49.99 at Amazon *) improves permeability in case of doubt. Put the ornamental grass only so deep into the ground that the base is just above the surface. Finally, pour on and mulch with pebbles or grit.
also read
- Blue fescue is not poisonous
- Blue fescue is hardy
- Can you cut blue fescue or not?
Care tips
The following care program provides convincing evidence why blue fescue is the ideal perennial for the easy-care garden:
- Only water moderately if the dryness persists
- There is no in the bed Fertilize necessary
- Apply a starter fertilizer in the pot in March / April
- Cut off withered flower panicles in autumn
- Either cut off the grass close to the ground in March or comb out with your fingers
Winter protection is not necessary for outdoor plants as Festuca cinerea is completely hardy. However, a light winter protection in the pot makes sense so that the root ball does not freeze through due to the exposed location. To do this, cover the vessel with jute or foil and slide a block of wood under it.
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Which location is suitable?
In the sunny location, the blaze of color of the blue fescue keeps what the name promises. Of course, settle the ornamental grass in the Penumbra on, the previously steel-blue stalks will turn green over time. A sheltered and warm place is an advantage for a decorative winter time. Under these conditions, the sweet grass adorns the otherwise empty garden with its spherical tuft of grass until spring.
What soil does the plant need?
The blue fescue achieves its optimum in sandy-loamy and moderately dry soil. When choosing a location, avoid damp locations, as the ornamental grass does not meet expectations here. The barren conditions in the rock garden or heather bed meet the wishes of the popular perennial excellently.
When is the flowering time?
In June and July the yellowish-brown panicle flowers rise above the blue stalks. At this time the ornamental grass reaches its maximum height of 25-30 cm. Cut off the withered stems down to the tuft of grass so that the harmonious, hemispherical silhouette is preserved through the winter.
Cut blue fescue correctly
Blue fescue is hardy and evergreen. You should therefore only cut off the withered panicle flowers in autumn to enjoy the distinctively shaped, steel-blue ornamental grass during the cold season. In early spring, cut the grass that is then drawn in close to the ground. If a fresh shoot is already showing, simply comb out the withered stalks with your hands.
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Water the blue fescue
Under normal weather conditions, a blue fescue is content with the rain. Only water the ornamental grass if the drought persists. Please note that the perennial does not like wet feet at all. Therefore, let the water from the spout slowly run onto the root ball so that you can recognize in good time when no more moisture is being absorbed.
Fertilize blue fescue properly
A Festuca cinerea only puts on its steel-blue dressing of leaves in poor, dry soil. Additional nutrients are out of place here. We only recommend starting fertilization in spring in the form of liquid fertilizer, plant manure or worm tea in the tightly limited substrate volume of a bucket. However, this only applies if you have not recently repotted the ornamental grass in pre-fertilized soil.
Overwinter
Blue fescue is completely hardy. The ornamental grass is not impressed even by freezing frost. As a result, no precautions need to be taken outdoors. However, if the blue head of grass is in the limelight in the pot, the root ball behind the rather thin walls of the vessel is vulnerable. Wrap a bucket with bubble wrap or jute tape and place it on a block of wood.
Propagate blue fescue
The division of the root ball has emerged as an unbeatably simple method of propagation. To do this, dig up the cut back eyrie in March / April, provided the ground is completely thawed. Place the root ball on a firm surface to cut 2 or more segments. As long as a section has at least 3-4 leaves, it has the potential to become an adult blue fescue. It is important to note that you put the pieces exactly as deep into the earth as you did before.
Blue fescue in a pot
They are pretty to look at in pots and underline other perennials that also require poor, dry conditions. Use lean cactus, unit or prick soil as a substrate and mix in sand or fine grit. A drainage made of pebbles or potsherds prevents waterlogging at the bottom of the pot. Do not water blue fescue in the pot until the substrate has dried well. At the start of the season, apply a liquid fertilizer to get the growth going. The wilted panicle flowers are cut off in autumn as they impair the visual appearance. In March, you cut the grass close to the ground or comb out the withered stalks with your fingers. Before the first frost, the pot is given a winter coat made of jute or bubble wrap. A base made of wood or styrofoam is also useful.
Is blue fescue poisonous?
Blue fescue does not contain any harmful substances. The ornamental grass is therefore unreservedly suitable for the family garden. If your nosy cat or curious dog is nibbling on the stalks, don't worry.
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Nice varieties
- Elijah Blue: Beautiful blue fescue with a spherical habit and intensely shining, blue stalks; 10-25 cm
- Uchte: Cushion-forming ornamental grass, the steel-blue leaves of which decorate the garden throughout the winter; 10-25 cm
- Great Egret: Beautiful Festuca cinerea, which sets impressive accents as a silvery-blue ground cover; 10-25 cm
- Blaugglut: This variety thrives a little higher to showcase itself in the rock garden and large tubs; 10-30 cm
- Bergsilber: valuable hybrid with an elegant, hemispherical silhouette for beds, graves and buckets; 10-30 cm
