Help, my camellia is losing leaves

The camellia is an Asian beauty that gives us a guest performance. As a small plant or an impressive shrub. Often, however, it only lives in one bucket in this country. The large, brightly colored flowers are her ornament. We love them for that. Healthy, shiny green leaves are a constant companion. Every now and then, she willingly swap a few. But what happens when more specimens fall?

Camellia is losing leaves

The camellia is old, bot. Camellia, in the genes. It can reach several hundred years under optimal conditions. As an evergreen shrub, it does not separate from its leaves even in winter. Yet not a single sheet accompanies it from youth to old age. The shiny green leaves are granted a comparatively short life. Each leaf remains on the plant for about three years before it is shed. After all, the new shoot needs space. This exchange goes hand in hand and does not detract from the appearance of the Camellia. However, if it loses more leaves than new copies follow, something is wrong. It can quickly become bald and if the leaf continues to fall, it can soon be left with bare twigs. But no plant can live without leaves.

causes

If the camellia is losing leaves but still maintains a dense crown, then there is nothing to worry about. However, if the shrub becomes lighter and lighter, the causes must be investigated as quickly as possible. Only when the reason for the “unscheduled” leaf loss has been unequivocally discovered can the plant receive the right help. Don't wait too long because the sooner you act, the more hands you will be able to get him. These are the possible causes of severe leaf loss:

• too dry wintering
• Failure to pour
• Frost damage to the roots
• Changed soil pH
• Change of location

Overwintering too dry

Only in mild regions can some varieties survive the winter outside. That is why camellias, especially the Camellia japonica, which is popular with us, are brought to winter quarters during the cold season. The camellias like it light and cool to 12 ° C. However, such premises are not always available or do not meet other requirements. For example, it needs a humidity of at least. 60%. Otherwise, a specimen may soon lose a large part of its leaves. The air in it can dry out quickly, especially if it is placed in heated rooms for reasons of space.

Possible solutions

First find out how high the humidity is in the winter quarters. While it is easier for us to estimate the air temperature, we have to use a hygrometer here. If the suspicion of insufficient humidity is confirmed, you can proceed as follows:

• move to more suitable winter quarters
• alternatively, spray regularly with water
• but not soaking wet
• otherwise this can favor fungal diseases

tip: If you do not have a hygrometer, you can order one online. Usually it is delivered the next day. Simple models also cost less than 10 euros.

Failure to pour

The watering of this Asian beauty is an activity in which its owner has to show a good instinct. Your earth must never dry out completely. However, it must not be oversupplied with the precious liquid at any time. Your roots don't like it when they are surrounded by waterlogging. However, the camellia does not immediately lose its leaves in waterlogged or dry soil. Only with a time lag will it react to an unbalanced and inadequate water supply with leaf loss. The connection with watering can therefore easily be overlooked.

Possible solutions

How the problem is solved depends on whether the camellia has been poured over or has been dry in the meantime. It may also be that she regularly experiences both conditions alternately. Here are the first steps:

• Immediately and abundantly water the dried out root ball
• respectively. Immerse the pot in a bucket of water
• then drain well
• respectively. Pour away excess water from the saucer
• Do not continue to water the overwatered plant for the time being
• If the soil is too wet, repot in new substrate
• pay attention to a drainage layer
• examine the root ball for rotten spots
• cut this away completely

From now on, the casting behavior must also be changed. That means never letting the earth dry out but also never causing waterlogging. During the flowering period, the camellia needs more water than usual. In winter quarters, do not water until the top layer of soil dries up.

tip: It is generally recommended not to water the camellia with a watering can, but rather to immerse it in a bucket of water. The water that then escapes is poured away promptly.

Frost damage to the roots

Frost damage to the roots can also lead to leaf fall, if this means that the supply of the plant no longer works smoothly. The causes of such damage can be the following:

• planted shrubs were exposed to a severe winter
• this also applies to container specimens that have been overwintered outside
• possibly. the protective measures were inadequate
• or they were removed too soon
• overwintered camellia was cleared from winter quarters too early
• possibly. she still got late frosts

Possible solutions

The frozen roots are initially not recognized because they are hidden in the earth. The consequences of frostbite do not show up until spring, when the plant comes to life again. Since the plant can no longer be well supplied due to the reduced root mass, it should be cut back a good deal. Then the pot is placed in a warm place.

Changed soil pH

Camellias like acidic soil. Most owners are also familiar with this. That is why this preference is fulfilled for them when planting. But the pH of the soil can change over time. If an intolerable value is reached, the camellia will lose more and more leaves. The change in the soil towards the alkaline range is often caused unintentionally and unnoticed by the following care mistakes:

• watering with calcareous water
• too much fertilizer
• Use of an unsuitable fertilizer

Possible solutions

Fortunately, with a plant that thrives in the tub, the problem with the wrong pH can be easily fixed. To do this, the plant must be repotted immediately.

• Take the plant out of the bucket
• Wash off the root ball under lukewarm water
• the entire soil should be removed
• Remove earth residues from the bucket
• Plant the camellia again
• use new, acidic substrate
• For the time being, do without fertilizing
• measure the pH regularly
• pour with decalcified water
• later use a liquid fertilizer for acidic soil

A large camellia bush in the garden can hardly be repotted. However, you may be able to replace the top layer of soil with acidic soil. All other recommendations regarding fertilization and watering must also be observed with these specimens from now on.

tip: A large camellia plant is unwieldy for a person. It is too easy for some branches to snap off when repotting or washing the soil. Be sure to get help with this endeavor.

Change of location

A camellia in a pot moves regularly due to insufficient winter hardiness. It is usually the case that it is outside in the garden or on the balcony in the warm season. During the cold season, on the other hand, she is housed in a frost-free area. However, a change of location is associated with a change in temperature. The light intensity and the duration of exposure to the sun can also change. With high and abrupt fluctuations, the plant may lose many leaves.

Possible solutions

When changing location, always keep an eye on the plant in order to discover early if you are not comfortable with it. It prefers bright locations without too much direct sun. The greatest danger arises when the plant moves out of its winter quarters again. She is no longer used to sunshine and cannot take it to its full strength immediately. She needs our help to slowly get used to it. Put the plant back in a location where it is not continuously exposed to the blazing sun. Also remove any leaves that have already been damaged. Then gradually get them used to more sun by letting them stand longer in the sun every day.