Kaiserkrone ∗ The 10 best care and planting tips

Plant imperial crown correctly

When autumn knocks on the garden gate, it is time for the abundance of flowers in the next year Perennial bed or to take care of the cottage garden. Plant the Imperial Crown Between mid-August and mid-October in this sequence in the ground, the chances of a first flowering as early as next year are good:

• Thoroughly loosen the nutrient-rich soil in the sunny to shady location
• Create small pits with a depth of 20-25 cm at a distance of 35-60 cm
• Scatter sand on the sole to prevent lump rot
• Mix the excavated material with sifted compost and horn shavings
• Place one flower bulb in the soil, press the substrate on and water

The planting in the bucket proceeds in the same way, whereby instead of sand as drainage, you use some pottery shards, Expanded clay(€ 16.36 at Amazon *) or Grit(€ 49.99 at Amazon *) should use.
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Care tips

An imperial crown is far less capricious than its exotic appearance suggests. The care program only includes the following measures:

• Repeatedly fertilize the heavily draining plant organically from March to the end of the flowering period
• Do not let the substrate dry out
• Put watering water directly on the roots
• Cut off withered flower stems to save energy for seed formation
• Do not remove the leaves until they have completely yellowed and withered

In winter regions we recommend a light winter protection for reasons of caution. Before the first frost, cover the plant with a layer of foliage, which is fixed with coniferous twigs. The mulch is removed in good time before the new shoot.
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Which location is suitable?

The flower unfolds its oriental magic to perfection in a sunny to shady, warm and sheltered location. The more sunbeams brush the plant, the more intensely photosynthesis takes place with the resulting flower sculpture. The exorbitant floral commitment of the plant also requires plenty of nutrients. Therefore, choose a location for the Kaiserkrone with nutritious, humus soil, fresh, moist and first-class permeable.

The correct planting distance

To determine the best possible planting distance, take the expected growth height and halve this value. For a plant with a height of 70-80 cm, the distance is 35-40 cm. Majestic specimens that reach up to 120 cm in height are placed at a distance of 60 cm from the neighboring bed.

What soil does the plant need?

The imperial crown is dependent on constant access to nutrients in order to meet expectations as a splendid flower. So settle the plant in this soil:

• Rich in nutrients
• Humorous and sandy-loamy with a fresh, moist consistency
• Well-drained, loose and profound

In the planter, the flower stages an exotic flair when it is given a high-quality and structurally stable potted plant soil.

What is the best time to plant?

The ideal planting time for the royal onion flower is from mid-August to mid / late October. The earth is still warm from the summer sun and richly populated by busy soil organisms. In this perfect soil, the subterranean survival organ establishes itself in good time before winter and stretches out its roots.
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When is the flowering time?

From April to mid / end of May, the magnificent flower spoils us with its unmistakable bloom. So that there is no floral dreariness at the location in the following years, cleverly chosen plant neighbors should be on the spot. The carpet-forming Clematis Praecox is ideal or comparable, summer-blooming ground cover.
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Cut the imperial crown correctly

Thanks to its hardy onion, the imperial crown thrives as a perennial in the bed for many years. So that the plant can play this botanical map perfectly, professional cutting moves into the focus of the care program. How to do it right:

• Use a sharp, disinfected knife to cut off the wilted flower stalks together with the tuft of leaves
• Leave the lanceolate leaves on the plant until they are completely absorbed

Please do not only consider the high toxicity of this plant when cutting imperial crowns. Be sure to wear gloves and long-sleeved clothing for all maintenance work on this flower. The clippings on the compost should be covered with leaves immediately so that no animals feast on them and suffer fatal poisoning.
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Pour imperial crown

Keep the substrate surface of imperial crowns in eye. When the top 2-3 cm dry, the flower is watered. Give the water directly to the roots, because irrigation will impair the impressive bloom. In the bucket culture, the daily thumb test provides more detailed information about the current watering requirements. Experience has shown that the watering can is used more often here than in the bed.

Fertilize imperial crown properly

In the context of the nutrient supply of an imperial crown, you must not skimp, because you are looking after a heavy eater. Give a well-measured portion of compost at the beginning of budding Horn shavings(€ 32.93 at Amazon *) and put nettle liquid over it. This fertilization is repeated every 14 days until the end of the flowering period. Alternatively, supply the plant with one Slow release fertilizer in the specified dosage. In the pot, the flower thanks the regular application of liquid fertilizer with vital flowering pleasure.

Pests

Since the imperial crown is a member of the lily family, the crafty lily chicken always has the flower in its sights. Look out for the 6-8 mm small, shiny red beetles from the end of March. While the pests nibble on the leaves, they lay the eggs on the plant at the same time, so that the voracious larvae attack them as the process progresses. How to keep the plague in check:

• Read the beetles regularly
• Spray the infected plant several times with wormwood or tansy tea
• Protect the onions with neem preparations

If the pressure of infestation increases, specialist retailers offer effective insecticides. This includes Compo Pest-Free Plus or Lizetan Pest-Free from Bayer Garten.

Overwinter

In the year of planting and in rough locations every year, we advise you to take preventive protective measures. So that frost and moisture do not damage the plant, cover it with leaves and fir fronds from the first frost to mid / end of February. In the pot, you carry the drawn-in flower to the frost-free winter quarters so that the onion does not freeze through behind the relatively thin walls of the container.

Increase Imperial Crown

In order for further specimens of this royal flower to flourish in the garden, the plant supplies suitable propagation material on its own. If you dig up the onion in September / October, you will recognize several daughter onions at the base at a glance. As offspring, they have the potential to become a splendid imperial crown if they are treated as follows:

• Clean the dug out onion from soil and place on a firm surface
• Cut off the bulbs with a sharp knife
• Fill small pots with standard or prickly potting soil, plant one daughter onion in each case and let it root
• Alternatively, place the tubers in loose garden soil in a sunny location

the sowing By contrast, seeds turn out to be a horticultural adventure. The cold germs are first to be subjected to a stratification in order to then care for them over a longer period of time until several pairs of leaves have developed. A long patience of several years is required until the first bloom.

How do I transplant properly?

After 3 to 4 years in the bed, the imperial crown has largely worn out. Transplanting and dividing now acts like a makeover on the flower beauty. Dig up the onion between July and September and place it on a firm surface. With a knife or spade the clearly visible bulbs are separated. After the soil has been optimized with compost at the previous location as well as at the new location, plant the mother onion and its daughters again.

Is Crown Imperial Poisonous?

Botanically classified as a lily family, the imperial crown is poisonous for humans and animals. A high content of steroid alkaloids is essentially responsible for this. The consumption of small amounts of leaves, flowers or onions is harmful to health. Nausea, vomiting and life-threatening cardiovascular complaints develop. Therefore, do not cultivate the flower in the family garden or on the balcony when children and pets are in the immediate vicinity.
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Imperial crown does not bloom

If our hopes for a dreamlike abundance of flowers come to nothing, the following causes are behind the dilemma:

• Low-light location - solution: transplant to a sun-drenched location
• Compacted soil - solution: Optimize the soil with compost and sand
• Planting too deep - solution: dig up the bulb and reinsert it a maximum of 25 cm deep
• Nutrient deficiency solution: Apply an immediately effective mineral-organic fertilizer

Last but not least, the flower requires a little patience until the first bloom. Even with the most careful planting, flowering in the first year is not guaranteed. A plant propagated from seedlings even takes up to 5 years before it presents its corolla to us.
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How does the Imperial Crown drive out voles?

With an unpleasant garlic odor emanating from the onions, the imperial crown warns approaching enemies of their high poisonous content. This is why troubled hobby gardeners swear by the flower as a biological deterrent against voles and moles. Since it is a hardy plant, the onion has this helpful effect all year round. With a single specimen, however, you will hope in vain that the pests will not appear. Only in larger groups does the disgusting smell accumulate to such an extent that the rodents run away.

Nice varieties

• Aureomarginata: Breathtakingly beautiful with variegated, creamy yellow leaves and scarlet flowers
• Garland Star: A majestic specimen with orange-red flowers and a height of up to 120 cm
• Vivaldi: Yellow-orange flowering plant, which thanks to its compact silhouette is well suited for the tub
• Rubra Maxima: A red-orange rarity that gives the cottage garden a noble touch; Growth height 60-100 cm
• Chopin: The flower captivates with its graceful shape and elegant blooms in muted red; Growth height 60-70 cm