Daffodils ∗ The 10 best care and planting tips

Planting daffodils properly

Daffodils accomplish the early blooming miracle because the flower sprouts from an onion. The basic requirement for the process is professional planting at the right time. It succeeds in these steps:

Thoroughly loosen the soil in September / October in a sunny to partially shaded location
Create small planting pits at a distance of 15-20 cm, with a thin layer of sand on the bottom
Improve the excavation with compost, guano(€ 9.82 at Amazon *) and horn shavings
Insert one onion at a time with the tip pointing upwards
The ideal planting depth is two to three times the radius of the bulb

Care tips

The neat daffodil care program includes these recommendations:

Water the flower when it is dry
Fertilize organically from March until the end of the flowering period
Add liquid fertilizer for flowering plants to the irrigation water in a pot every 14 days
Clean up withered flower heads

When the flower has finished its blossom festival for this season, give the bulb enough time to draw in the remaining nutrients from the leaves. Only then do you cut the foliage close to the ground. Please don't forget your gloves.
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Which location is suitable?

When choosing the location, consider your sunny disposition, daffodils shine against the spring sun in all their glory. in the Penumbra the flower is also impressive. So that violent spring storms do not kink the stems, we recommend a location sheltered from the wind.
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The correct planting distance

Where several daffodils congregate, they form small islands of spring-like opulence. Therefore, plant the flower in small tuffs with 5-9 specimens at a planting distance of 15-20 centimeters.

What soil does the plant need?

Daffodils feel at home in normal garden soil. The following attributes are beneficial:

Nutrient-rich and humic
Fresh and moist, with good drainage
Neutral to slightly acidic pH

What is the best time to plant?

In order for daffodils to fulfill their role as heralds of spring on time, the right planting time is essential. If you plant the bulbs in September or October, the bright yellow and white trumpet blossoms will be there in time.
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When is the flowering time?

The flowering period of daffodils extends from February to May. A single flower, however, does not have such staying power. If you combine varieties with early, medium and late flowering, the spring splendor merges seamlessly. The following arrangement may serve as inspiration:

February Gold: Flowering period from mid-February to early April
Ice Follies: flowering from March to April
Golden Ducat: flowering in April
Thalia: flowering from April to May

How to cut daffodils correctly

There are several reasons to cut daffodils. The following brief overview also gives you tips on how to proceed correctly:

Cut daffodils as a vase decoration if the buds opened shortly before
Cut withered flower heads to prevent seed formation
After flowering, do not cut the foliage until it is completely withered

Watering daffodils

Daffodils prefer changing soil moisture with intermittent drying periods. Water the flower like this:

If the surface of the earth dries up, it is poured
Do not water the flower, but water it directly on the roots
Check the moisture content of the soil in the bucket daily with a thumb test

Do not leave water in the saucer for a long time, as waterlogging inevitably leads to onion rot.
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Fertilize daffodils properly

Daffodils are among the weak eaters, so their nutritional requirements are within manageable limits. Fertilize The flower in the bed with compost, guano or nettle manure in March and April. In the planter, apply a liquid fertilizer every 14 days during the flowering period.
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Diseases

While commercial growers have to deal with a number of viral diseases on daffodils, the risk to the flower in the hobby garden is limited to onion basal rot. This fungal infection, however, means the end, because the subterranean organ of persistence rots irretrievably. Look out for yellowed daffodil leaves in the middle of the season as an unmistakable symptom. Dispose of the infected flower promptly to prevent it from spreading.

Pests

The most important pests for the flower are the small and large daffodil flies. The females lay their eggs in June in the immediate vicinity of the onion. In the course of the summer, the larvae dig into the flower bulb and eat it from the inside out. Since an infestation can hardly be diagnosed in time, you will not notice the disaster until the following spring. The leaves sprout stunted and the flowers remain puny. So that the small bidders do not reproduce again, discard the onion and mix the soil with unslaked lime.

Overwinter

Freshly planted daffodil bulbs should be protected with leaves, straw and brushwood in the first winter. Once the flower has established itself in the bed, no special precautions are required for wintering. On the contrary, the winter cold stimulus is indispensable for flower induction. Cultivate the flower in the pot, wrap the vessel with bubble wrap before the first frost and cover the substrate with leaves, straw or sawdust.
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Propagate daffodils

Numerous types of daffodils, such as the poet's daffodil, the trumpet daffodil or the cyclamen-flowered daffodil, tend to grow wild, so that they multiply quickly on their own. To speed up this process, do the following:

Well established in September / October Daffodil bulb lift out of the earth
Cut off one or more daughter onions with a sharp knife
At the new location in a sunny to partially shaded location in the ground and water well
Before you plant the mother plant again, enrich the soil with compost and horn meal

the sowing On the other hand, of seeds proves to be significantly more complex. Since these are cold germs, stratification is required. In addition, it takes up to 4 years for the first flower to appear.
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How do I transplant properly?

Transplanting daffodils can be done without any problems and is definitely desirable. In the fifth year at the latest, this measure makes a valuable contribution to maintaining the vitality and flowering ability of this flower. This is how the plan works:

After flowering or in September / October, the onion with the Digging fork or dig up your hands
Cut off the daughter onions with a sharp, disinfected knife
Enrich the soil with compost at both the previous and the new location

Place the flower at a depth that is twice to three times the diameter of the onion and water it.
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Daffodils in a pot

In the pot, daffodils exude their charm in the sunny location as early as February if you plant the bulbs in September of the previous year. Use as a substrate Potting soil compost and give a handful of sand or Perlite(€ 39.50 at Amazon *) added. The planting depth is at least twice the diameter of the bulb. Drainage over the water drain is essential. Keep the pot in a cool, frost-free cellar until the end of December / beginning of January and do not allow the substrate to dry out. From January you care for the flower like this:

Place on the sunny to partially shaded windowsill at temperatures around 15 degrees
Gradually increase the watering amount as soon as budding begins
When the flowering period begins, apply liquid fertilizer every 14 days

At the end of the flowering period, cut off the stems and leaves when they are completely withered. Summer the onions dry in a cool, dark cellar or plant them in the garden soil.
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Are Daffodils Poisonous?

As part of the amaryllis family, the daffodil contains alkaloids and other toxins that are extremely harmful to humans and animals. Fatally, the flower bulb resembles a kitchen onion, so that accidental consumption resulted in life-threatening poisoning. Pay close attention or refrain from cultivating this flower within the reach of children and pets. Wearing gloves for any contact is a top gardener's duty.
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Daffodils don't bloom

If the flower lacks its blooming splendor, this is how it expresses its displeasure. It is important to discover and remedy the bottleneck within cultivation that is responsible for this. The following causes cause a failure of the flower:

Nutrient deficiency: give an instant liquid fertilizer
Over-fertilization: stop applying fertilizer for this year
Aging: dig up, divide and put in fresh soil
Too little light: move to a sunny location

Brown leaves

If the leaves of a daffodil turn brown immediately after budding or during the flowering period, the following causes are hidden:

Freezing due to severe ground frost: protect with garden fleece
Drought: water more often
Waterlogging: plant on a small hill in the moist location
Vole food: put onions in the vole basket

Yellow leaves

If the splendid foliage of a daffodil turns yellow in the middle of the flowering period, this damage pattern points to onion basal rot. This fungal infection causes putrefaction within the perennial organ, so that the supply of the above-ground parts of the plant comes to a standstill. The leaves turn yellow and the entire flower dies. Immediately dispose of the infected daffodil with household waste to prevent it from spreading.

The most beautiful varieties

Acropolis: double flowers in brilliant white, with an orange heart and a wonderful scent
Arctic Gold: yellow-gold trumpet daffodil, the incarnation of an Easter bell with an extra long flowering period from March to May
Cherry Spot: the trendy daffodil with white petals and an orange-red corolla
February Gold: the earliest flower among the daffodils, which starts to develop its golden yellow flowers from February
Manly: its pale yellow color belies the robust constitution
Rip van Winkel: with a dainty 15 cm height, the double flower enchants in beds and tubs from April to May