origin
The foundation stone for the widespread, albeit fairly well-known name confusion among gardening enthusiasts "Geranium" instead of the systematically correct "Pelargonium" was already used in the course of its introduction in Europe around 1700 placed. Since then, the incorrect, if not entirely unfounded, misnomer has simply become popular naturalized - a typical linguistic phenomenon that is resistant to any correction efforts Momentum. The name is not entirely unfounded because the pelargonium naturally belongs to the cranesbill family - botanically Geraniaceae. Just like real ones Geraniums, so cranesbills.
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- For ever-recurring blooms: Successfully propagate geraniums
- Protect geraniums from frost
Pelargonium was introduced from South Africa - its main area of distribution is also concentrated here. Above all in the southernmost Cape region, but also as far as Namibia, around 250 wild species thrive. However, some also grow in tropical, more northerly regions of Africa such as Tanzania, Kenya or Zimbabwe. A small group is also native to Western Asia, from Turkey to Iraq and Iran.
The nature of their original habitat can therefore not be clearly defined - pelargoniums are adapted to different habitats depending on the species. The species that we cultivate as garden plants come mainly from southern South Africa, where there is a semi-humid, maritime climate with seasons. In our latitudes they can therefore be cultivated fairly easily. The winters in their original habitat are, however, much milder than here, which is why permanent outdoor culture is not possible here.
Overview of the origin of pelargonium:
- The species relevant to our garden culture come from southern South Africa
- Are therefore adapted to semi-humid, maritime, seasonal climates
- Get along well with us, but local winters are too cold
growth
Pelargoniums mostly grow as perennials, but there are also annual species and those with a really shrubby habit. There are also succulent species. The species that we mainly cultivate are usually perennials. A distinction is made primarily between hanging geraniums, standing geraniums and scented geraniums. The latter show a particularly strong, upright, semi-shrub-like growth and lush flowers. But hanging geraniums also grow bushy and strong. Pelargoniums usually reach a height of 30 to 40 cm and lignify slightly from below with advancing age.
Growth characteristics in brief:
- We mostly cultivated pelargoniums perennials
- Bushy, strong growth, depending on the species, upright and semi-shrubby or overhanging
- Height about 30 to 40 cm
- Slight lignification in old age
leaves
The stalked leaves of pelargonium have a typical lobed contour and are on the lower ones Shoot sections alternate and in the upper sections opposite with stipules arranged. In some varieties, the foliage is nicely patterned.
blossoms
The biological zygomorphic structure of the flowers shows the systematic difference to all other cranesbill plants. The flowers are usually in doldy groups at the end or in the shoot axils. Some varieties form downright spherical flower clusters. The individual flowers are five-fold and usually show a wide, open flower plate, some varieties also appear a little more delicate with narrower, longer petals.
Flower characteristics in brief:
- Terminal or axillary, mostly in golden groups
- Zygomorphic structure, five-fold
- Often wide, open flower plates, depending on the variety, also more delicate
Colours
Pelargoniums have long been one of the most popular garden and balcony plants and are available in countless cultivars - there is by no means a lack of color choice. Of course, red varieties look particularly classic, but white and pink to violet also make up the color palette. In the meantime, artistic, two-tone varieties with attractive stripes or speckled patterns in blue-white or pink-pink are often offered.
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When is the flowering time?
Pelargoniums have long been valued not only for their lush, colorful and long-range splendor. The flowers also delight with a pleasant persistence and adorn balconies and terraces all summer long with their rustic charm. Often the flowering period lasts from May to September. For a vital new growth and a well-groomed bloom appearance, you should regularly clean the bloomed stands.
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Which location is suitable?
Pelargoniums can be grown in full sun as well as in partially shaded places. The more sun they get, the more luxuriant they will develop flowers. Due to the somewhat fragile drive structure, you should not expose them to too strong winds. Particularly large-flowered varieties can also be damaged by heavy rain or hail during summer thunderstorms. So a location protected from precipitation is not wrong.
To note:
- The location can be sunny to partially shaded
- More flower formation with more sun
- Not too strong wind, some protection from heavy rainfall
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What soil does the plant need?
Pelargoniums need a fairly nutrient-rich, loose and well-drained planting substrate. It is not without reason that specialty geranium soil is available in specialist shops. This is already well pre-fertilized and with good, even water absorption properties and an airy structure.
Of course, the marketing of geranium soil is also a business - the properties mentioned can also be achieved with the right individual ingredients. The experienced hobby gardener always mixes his soil himself anyway. In universalPotting soilwho have favourited you with a permanent supply of nutrients in the form of good compost and Horn shavings(€ 32.93 at Amazon *) and a loosening portion of sand for drainage, a pelargonium thrives just as well.
Earth claims in brief:
- Nutrient-rich, loose and permeable
- For those who want it easy: geranium soil
- But your own mixtures with universal potting soil, compost, horn shavings and sand are also promising
What is the best time to plant?
Since pelargoniums cannot tolerate frost, cultivation outside is only possible after the last frosts. This usually means after the ice saints in May. However, it is advisable to buy young plants as early as the end of winter and to grow them in the balcony box in a bright, cool place. In a large balcony box about one meter long, place about 5 young plants in fresh, organically long-term fertilized soil and cultivate them with even watering until mid-May.
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balcony
Pelargoniums are the epitome of rustic, rustic window and balcony decorations. In fact, a place close to the house is also ideal for sun worshipers who are slightly sensitive to the weather. In addition, a deep balcony box with sufficient drainage holes is also very suitable as a planter. Here the pelargoniums have enough space for a nutrient-rich substrate. A hanging position on the balcony railing, if there are enough drainage holes in the bottom of the balcony box, also prevents waterlogging in a relaxed manner, which pelargoniums cannot tolerate at all.
A south-facing balcony with plenty of sunshine is of course best to encourage abundance of flowers and willing growth.
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Repot
You can overwinter pelargoniums indoors - but since they are heavy eaters, you should put them in a fresh substrate every spring. A larger planter than a normal balcony box is usually not necessary due to the generally limited growth size. It is more important that the new substrate offers a fresh supply of nutrients and of course an effective drainage in the form of some sand.
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Pour geraniums
Generally, pelargoniums need a lot of water, but they are also very sensitive to waterlogging. So it is important to water regularly and abundantly, but to ensure effective drainage and good runoff when planting. Always keep an eye on your pelargoniums in the balcony box and regularly use the watering can, especially in hot, sunny phases in summer. The soil should always be slightly moist, but pelargoniums can also tolerate shorter dry periods.
Fertilize geraniums properly
Apart from the constant supply of organic fertilizer in the potting soil, you should regularly take the pelargoniums that require nutrients during the main vegetation phase fertilize - at least if you value beautiful, lush blooms. Of course, pelargoniums survive even without fertilizer, but then they form far fewer flowers and more foliage.
You should start fertilizing 2 to 3 weeks after planting. It is best to use a liquid fertilizer for flowering plants. There are also special geranium fertilizers. Add some of this to the watering water once a week or once every 2 to 3 weeks, depending on how the flowers develop.
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Cut geraniums properly
No formal pruning measures are necessary during the growth phase over the summer. But regular cleaning is possible. Because the bloomed inflorescences should always be removed quickly so that new ones can follow. The leaves can also become increasingly dry and form a lot of brownish material, which is detrimental to a well-groomed appearance. You can also simply pluck out such material by hand.
However, pruning is urgently needed before wintering. Too much remaining plant material is demanding of the plant Hibernation too much energy, which can even lead to their death. So prune them down thoroughly.
To do this, take them out of the box and shake off the soil. Then use sharp scissors to cut all the shoots down to about 10 cm, so that at least two eyes remain. If possible, remove all leaves to avoid unnecessary care and disease Leaving plant material behind - even if the rib-like appearance seems a bit sad afterwards like.
If you want to make the main cut less radical before wintering, you should cut back the pelargoniums a little again in spring when repotting. Here, however, only the dry shoot ends have to be removed in order to encourage vital new shoots.
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frost
Pelargoniums are not frost-resistant. In their homeland, the Cape region of South Africa, there is a mild, Mediterranean-like climate with frost-free winters. That is why they do not survive our winter outdoors. However, they do need cool temperatures for the winter months.
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Overwinter
You can overwinter pelargoniums without any problems. To do this, take them out of their summer planter in autumn before the first frosts and prepare with one Before hibernating, cut back thoroughly: Shorten all shoots except for two eyes and remove all of them if possible Leaves. This means that the plant has less to take care of in the cool, low-light period and is less susceptible to diseases and pests.
Put the prepared plants in pots with sandy soil for wintering and place them in a bright, cool place. The ideal ambient temperature is around 5-10 ° C. Favorable locations are, for example, a clear window seat in an unheated stairwell, a cold house or an attic with a skylight.
To note:
- Overwintering is possible without any problems, with the right preparatory measures
- Thorough pruning necessary - shorten all shoots to about 10 cm in length
- Remove sheet material
- Place in sandy soil and place in a light and cool place (5-10 ° C)
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Propagate geraniums
The best way to propagate pelagronia is by cuttings. Seed cultivation is also possible, but very laborious and time-consuming and therefore not recommended.
The best time to propagate cuttings is in early spring or in late summer. Cut out a young, healthy shoot from the mother plant. You should use sharp, clean scissors for this, as the interface is a bit sensitive to rot. The lower leaves and any side shoots are removed. Then put the cutting in a planter with Potting soil and pour carefully.
The cultivation vessel should not be particularly bright, but should be relatively warm. The chance of growth is highest in a slightly shaded greenhouse at 20 ° C. You can also pull the cuttings under the foil, but open the foil from time to time to ventilate. Regular moisturizing goes without saying.
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Cuttings
See section Propagate.
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Diseases
Unfortunately, the topic of diseases is a very central one in pelargonium. They are relatively susceptible to infectious bacterial or viral diseases, some of which are even named after them, such as geranium rust - the most common disease in pelargoniums.
Geranium rust
This fungal infection leaves the leaves of the geranium turn yellowish or brownish in color. Brown spots and pustules can also appear. If you identify the disease, you should remove all diseased parts of the plant as soon as possible, because the risk of infection is very high. Then a fungicide is the safer choice. The disease is caused by wet leaves - a location protected from rain is therefore recommended.
Pythium mushroom
This is a soil fungus that causes the plant to wither and reduce growth. The cause of its occurrence is waterlogging. Diseased parts of the plant must be removed immediately and the substrate replaced. A fungicide use is also useful.
Cork stains
Cork stains are actually not a disease, but rather a scarring of the tissue on the underside of the leaf, which becomes apparent when there is too much water, too cold temperatures or too little light. However, cork stains are not dangerous to the pelargonium, they only disturb the aesthetics. So you only have to remove the stained leaves if they bother you.
You can prevent all of these diseases with a sunny, airy location and good water drainage.
Geraniums are also attacked relatively frequently by pests, especially thrisps, aphids and spider mites
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Are geraniums poisonous?
Pelargonium is harmless to us humans. The flowers of the fragrant geraniums are even edible and the basis for aromatic culinary delights such as liqueur or flower butter.
However, the sap of pelargoniums contains substances that can cause skin irritation in humans and can even be very dangerous for small animals. Small rodents such as rabbits, guinea pigs or hamsters in particular should be kept away from pelargoniums as much as possible.
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sorts
Hanging geraniums and standing geraniums are of particular relevance for our local garden culture. Scented geraniums are also popular, but are mainly kept in their leaves because of the fragrant, essential oils from which delicious delicacies can be prepared. Overall, the variety of varieties is enormous. Here is a selection.
Hanging geraniums
This species is botanically called Pelargonium peltatum and is the absolute classic for planting balcony boxes. Varieties such as the Tyrolean hanging geranium, which is available in bright, classic colors such as red or white, are very popular because they are robust and attractive. Its shoots reach a length of about 1.50 m - this results in beautiful cascades with lush, tufted, dold-like inflorescences. These appear in May and can persist into October.
Very filigree, airy inflorescences show hanging geranium varieties such as "White Glacier". They bloom for a long time from May to October. However, their tendrils are not as long as in the Tyrolean hanging geraniums, only about 70 cm.
In addition, there are some half or fully double varieties whose flowers appear rose-like. They usually grow a little more compact and are a bit sensitive to rain because of the ornate flowers.
Standing geraniums
This species, botanically Pelargonium hortorum, shows an upright growth with strong shoots. The varieties often show very colorful flowers in white to pink or orange and are up to 40 cm high.
The Xtreme rose variety, for example, is very classic, with its large, deep pink flowers that turn pink in the middle and stand together in loose groups.
There are also varieties with double flowers among the standing geraniums - the “Appleblossom”, for example, is delightful with numerous small, rose-like flowers in greenish white with a pink exterior, in dense, ball-like clusters stand together. This variety also blooms continuously from May to October, but needs a lot of cleaning.
Fragrant geraniums
Those who like to make their own culinary delicacies can do a lot with scented geraniums - make liqueurs, prepare flower butter or flavor summery showers. But fragrant geraniums can also be used for a pleasant ambient scent in the summer garden. Another practical advantage: their essential oils keep mosquitoes and pests away, so they are good for us and for neighboring garden plants.
The variety of fragrant geraniums is immeasurable. You will find variants in countless directions of smell, so that you can choose according to your taste. The flowers play a subordinate role in all scented geraniums.
For those who have a weakness for citric scents, for example, varieties such as the lemony are suitable smelling “Lemon Fizz”, the orange-like scented “Prince of Orange” or the bitter grapefruit-like "Toronto".
Other fruity smelling varieties are the apricot-like smelling “Madame Nonin” or the fresh apple-like smelling “Apple Mint”.
Mint-fresh flavors such as “Felty Radens” with a menthol-like, balsamic flavor or - for all After Eight fans, the “Chocolate Peppermint” with a chocolaty smell. The "Coconut" has something exotic and southern to it.
Varieties such as “Attar of Roses” or “Rosemarie” exude a rosy, elegantly flowery odor.