Column fruit types and dates
Column fruit's steep career began with the apple. It didn't take long before gardeners with a lack of space could look forward to high-yielding columnar pears. Column cherries and plum columns in large buckets have long been commonplace in trendy urban gardening. Small space requirements and uncomplicated pruning have made columnar fruit so popular. The right cutting time plays a key role. Before you familiarize yourself with a type-compliant cut in this tutorial, please take a look at this table with recommended dates:
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| Fruit type | best date | alternative date |
|---|---|---|
| Apple | early spring (February / March) | after harvest |
| pear | Summer (mid / end of June) | none |
| cherry | after harvest | February / March (aging column cherry) |
| Plum, plum | after harvest | after the leaf fall (October / November) |
This also has an influence on the choice of dates Federal Nature Conservation Act. As long as it is a light maintenance cut that could not disturb any nesting birds, it can be carried out in summer. The legislature of 1. October to 28. February provided that there are no wintering animals in the wood.
Seldom cut apple pillar
A columnar growth is unique Apple varieties naturally preprogrammed in the genetic make-up. In fact, all apple pillars can be traced back to a progenitor who is known as natural mutation thrives. The short one arises directly from a strong, tightly upright central shoot Fruitwood. The individual growth as so-called Pagan tree rarely requires horticultural intervention with scissors or saw. How to properly cut a columnar apple:
- Apple pillar only cut if necessary
- The best time is in February when the weather is frost-free and dry
- Long side branches without fruit set near the trunk Astring cut off
- Long side branches with fruit set Cut back to 1 cm above the future apple
- Prune the steep shoots and dead wood at the base
- Do not leave stumps and do not cut into the trunk bark
If the cut leaves a stub that is more than 5 centimeters long, the apple pillar will sprout vigorously at this point. If your column fruit is affected, remove all over-long and inward-growing young shoots. Short, well-positioned shoots leave you standing as future fruit wood. If such a short shoot grows too steeply, regulate the direction of growth with a wooden spreader or cord at an ideal angle of 60 ° to the column trunk.
Video evidence for a short, as well as meaningful explanatory video for the cut on a pillared apple:
Youtube
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Cut on Astring - this is how it works
Cut pear pillar annually
A pear pillar grows stronger than an apple pillar. Furthermore, pears as columnar fruit are not a natural growth form, but a selection of particularly slender spindle trees that are grafted on a weak base. Both prerequisites require a different incision than on the pillar apple. After a few years without pruning, they form long side shootssabotaging the slender growth as a pagoda tree. How to complete the perfect pear column cut:
- The best time is in the second half of June
- Cut back long side branches protruding from the column to 10 to 15 cm
- Place scissors over one pointing downwards or inwards bud
On this occasion, you should all Thinning out steep drivesthat are in competition with the column trunk. Prune these branches as well short cones. In the period that followed, several young shoots sprout here. Select up to three flat short shoots that are suitable for the fruit wood. All other young shoots have to give way.
Tips
You can master the pruning of column fruit with one Bypass scissors. The particular advantage lies in the two sharp cutting edges that run against each other and create smooth cuts. Anvil shears are made up of a sharp cutting edge and a blunt counterpart, the anvil. This reduces the effort; In return, there is a risk of bruising on the drive with a variety of negative consequences.
Cut column cherry if necessary
A column cherry was originally intended to thrive as a spindle tree. Because the sapling stood out in school with a strong central shoot and extra short ones Side shoots, it was chosen by the master gardener for columnar fruit and for a slow-growing one Refined underlay. Over the years one tends to Cherry pillar for the sprouting of sterile long and steep shoots, which run counter to the high-yielding columnar growth. With a summer maintenance cut, you can bring the growth back into balance. How to cut properly:
- The best time is at the end of June
- Cut long shoots protruding from the column to 10 to 15 cm
- Start a cut at a short distance from one eye
As the illustration below demonstrates, the conservation pruning is also dedicated to steeply upright branches. These make up as Competition with the column trunk unpopular and should removed will. Also cut on short tenons here. This cut enables fresh shoots, which with a little luck will produce new short shoots that can be useful as fruiting wood.
In order for a cherry tree to keep its slim growth shape, cut back the long side branches to short cones. Remove steep shoots because they compete with the trunk and torpedo the columnar shape.
Digression
Cut aging column fruit in stages
Occasionally cut the plum pillar
Cutting plums and cherries in a columnar shape is no different. Both stone fruit species benefit from occasional care and maintenance pruning after the harvest. If you miss this appointment, you can take care of the pruning during the leafless autumn and winter time. Slim down the middle of your columnar plum by cutting back the long side branches to a short cone. Steep shoots are also undesirable in a plum column and are thinned out.
Column fruit too high - what to do?
Vital growth at a young age causes columnar fruit to grow to undesirable heights. In this case, please do not be tempted to simply cut off the tip of the central drive. Remove the Top bud causes massive sprouting of lateral buds because the sap pressure is diverted there. The following rule of thumb applies to the premises in the pruning of column fruit: Capping the trunk tip is taboo.
However, you do not have to sit by and put up with unwanted height growth on column fruit. How to regulate the trunk height with Derivative cut:
- The best time is on Midsummer Day (24. June) or late February
- Look out for an unbranched, vital side shoot below the top of the trunk
- Place scissors at the fork between the top of the column and the side branch
- Ideally, cut 2 to 3 mm into the old wood
- Remove excess competitors to the top of the trunk
From now on, the previous branch takes over the leadership position. Wait with the on strongly growing fruit pillars such as pears or cherries Derivative cut please, until growth calms down after a few years. Until then, the desired final height will be temporarily exceeded. A premature pruning itself leads to massive budding, which spoils the joy of columnar fruit for you.
frequently asked Questions
Is column fruit self-fertile?
Column fruit is predominantly dependent on a second variety as a pollinator. In the case of apples, pears, plums or cherries, this task can be taken over by a normal fruit tree in the neighbor's garden. Balcony gardeners simply plant two different varieties in one large tub. Although nurseries and garden centers offer some self-fertilizing species in columnar form, crop yield and fruit quality are mostly disappointing without a neighboring pollinator.
The tip of our column cherry has dried up over a length of 30 centimeters. Otherwise the plant makes a healthy impression. Should I cut off the tip or not?
A look inside the drive helps with the decision. Scrape off the bark a little. If brown tissue appears, the wood in this area has died. If the shoot below the bark is still green, the cherry tree is probably suffering from drought stress and sprouting again. Cut the tip of the shoot back into the healthy wood.
I would like to plant column fruit in a tub for the balcony and terrace. What do you have to pay attention to?
The very limited root space in the tub makes the cultivation of columnar fruit a horticultural balancing act. Like any fruit, column fruit should also be planted in the bed if possible. Successful bucket keeping depends to a large extent on ensuring that a regular supply of water and nutrients is ensured. We also recommend a large bucket with a volume of at least 20 liters at the beginning. Over the years, the pot should grow with it. Repot your column fruit every 2 to 3 years in a new bucket with fresh substrate or replace the soil completely.
My columnar plum is 3 years old, thriving splendidly and productively. I am unsure about the care of the cut. When and how should I cut?
As long as your columnar plum meets all expectations, pruning is not necessary. In general, column fruit should grow almost uncut. Only overlong side shoots are shortened to a length of 15 to 20 centimeters. On this occasion you clear out dead wood and steep shoots.
My column cherries are now 14 years old, almost 5 meters high and very expansive. Can I restore my slender shape with one cut? Is it still worth it with such old column fruit?
Gardening practice has taught us that column fruit can easily live to be 25 years old. As a result, tapering pruning for your column cherries is definitely worth it. Since the incision goes beyond a normal conservation cut, we recommend an appointment in February, in accordance with the provisions of the Federal Nature Conservation Act. Trim all side branches back to 2 to 4 eyes. You thin out dead wood and steep shoots. If you want to shorten the height, divert the top of the trunk to a lower, healthy side shoot. In March, give an organic fruit tree fertilizer or a mixture of compost and to strengthen it Horn shavings.(€ 32.93 at Amazon *)
The 3 most common mistakes
If a columnar pear is cut like a columnar apple, the cutting error will reduce future harvests to a minimum. To forego pruning altogether is punished with a cord tree, which is only vaguely reminiscent of slim, high-yielding columnar fruit. The following table draws attention to the three most common cutting errors, provides information on the typical damage pattern and has tips for prevention:
| Cutting errors | Damage image | prevention |
|---|---|---|
| Pear pillar cut like an apple pillar | less fruit wood, massive crop failure next year | Always cut long side shoots on pear pillars on cones |
| never cut | shapeless growth, dense network of branches, few flowers | Blend columnar fruit every few years |
| Leading instinct cut too early | strong sprouting of sterile steep shoots, decline in flowers and fruits | Oversized main shoot at the earliest from 5. Shorten the year using the derivative cut |
Home gardeners make another common mistake in pruning when choosing an appointment. The many advocates for a cut in cloudy weather tempt you to cut columnar fruit in rainy weather. Pathogens have been waiting for wounds in damp wood. Primarily wound parasites are to be mentioned, the dreaded Fruit tree cancer cause. The cunning fungal spores can only germinate in damp wood. For this reason, always prune column fruit in dry, cloudy weather.
Tips
In every steep drive there is the potential for Fruitwood. Do not simply cut off a stiffly upright branch on column fruit. Check beforehand whether it is positioned so favorably that it is worth spreading. Tie the shoot with string at an angle of about 60 ° to the central shoot. The growth can also be directed in the oblique direction with a spreader or clothespins. Blossoms and fruits will then not be long in coming.
