This is how you get rid of the pests

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the essentials in brief

  • The first measure against Spider mites is the showering of the affected leaves. In order to capture all pests, killing sprays from household products help. Chemical agents should only be used in the event of severe spread.
  • In order to prevent an infestation, the living conditions for spider mites should be made unfavorable. In some cases, the pests keep coming, so clarifying the cause is important.
  • The most common types include the Red spider and the fruit tree spider mite. There are almost 100 species in Germany that attack various ornamental and useful plants.

What helps against spider mites

Spider mites are annoying pests that appear again and again on some indoor plants or in the greenhouse. With crops in particular, it is important to combat the sap suckers naturally. Injections leave residues that can get into the food. Indoor plants should only be controlled with drastic means if they are severely infested.

also read

  • Fight spider mites on the palm successfully
  • Recognize and fight spider mites on ivy
  • Identifying and combating spider mites on orchids - this is how it works
spider mites

Showering the plants can help with a slight infestation

First aid for spider mites:

  1. Thoroughly rinse the plant in the shower
  2. Remove eggs with a damp cloth
  3. Put a transparent plastic bag over the plant
  4. Tie the bag over the ball of the earth
  5. Leave the plant like this for the next two weeks

This method improves the microclimate between the leaves. The humidity rises sharply, so that the spider mites die off over time. Eggs that have already been laid can survive this procedure, so you have to check the plant for a relapse in the near future. Do not place the plant on a south-facing window sill, but choose a shady location. In the sun, the temperature under the plastic bag can become very hot, damaging the leaves.

Beneficial organisms against spider mites

Many beneficial insects can be used specifically to combat sucking pests. Spider mites can be combated biologically with these insects, which means that spraying can be almost completely dispensed with in fruit growing. In the greenhouse or with houseplants, you can Predatory mites Use against spider mites if an adjustment of temperature and humidity did not bring any success.

Art temperature humidity
Phytoseiulus persimilis Predatory mite 17 to 28 degrees Celsius at least 60 percent
Amblyseius californicus Predatory mite at least 23 degrees Celsius not less than 60 percent
Feltiella acarisuga Gall mosquito 20 to 26 degrees Celsius 60 percent is optimal

Take pruning measures

If perennials such as hemp or shrubs and trees are heavily infested with spider mites, pruning measures are recommended. With hemp, you remove individual leaves to stop the pests from spreading further. Is the Spider mite oleanders affected, a consistent pruning of the infected leaves helps. The poplar fig can be cut back to the stump if it is heavily infested. It then drives out again.

Getting rid of spider mites with home remedies

The list of home remedies for spider mites is long and ranges from milk and horsetail broth to dish soap and vinegar. There is no best way to get rid of the pests in one fell swoop. Each remedy has its advantages and disadvantages and sprays must be used over a long period of time for lasting success.

nicotine

A tobacco brew is a proven means of killing pests because nicotine is a powerful neurotoxin. It is precisely for this reason that you should definitely not use nicotine to control pests. Parts of the poison are actually absorbed by the plant and thus - provided it is a cultivated plant - reaches your table. In the 1970s, the use of nicotine for pest control on plants was banned in agriculture.

Broths, teas and liquid manure

For the preparation of brews, teas and liquid manure, you can use a rule of thumb as a guide: one kilogram of fresh or 200 grams of dried herbs for ten liters of water. While liquid manure is made with cold water and ferment for several days, brews and teas are made with boiling water.

Lukewarm water is suitable for broths, as the herbs soak for 24 hours. Before pouring, the batches are diluted 1:10 with water. If you use the means for spraying, a dilution of 1:20 to 1:50 is recommended.

  • Splash tea: Wormwood and tansy leaves, sprigs of lavender
  • Sud for pouring: Worm fern and bracken
  • Broth for pouring: Onions and garlic

Canola oil and neem oil

spider mites

Neem oil and rapeseed oil are powerful helpers in the fight against spider mites

The oil of the neem tree contains azadirachtin, which stops the spider mites from laying their eggs. Since the active ingredient is not selective and also harms beneficial insects, you should not use neem oil when predatory mites are used. An aqueous solution with rapeseed oil is gentler. When the leaves are sprayed, it forms an oily film under which the spider mites are trapped. You can no longer breathe and die.

Soapy water

A self-made product consisting of 15 milliliters of potassium soap and alcohol in one liter of water is ideal for spraying in the early stages, when the infestation is not very advanced. Make sure to spray the colonies directly on the underside of the leaves. The measure must be repeated every four to five days. Detergent is suitable to a limited extent, as it is usually not biodegradable.

There are numerous home remedies for spider mites. Solutions with oil or soap are most effective.

Chemical agents against spider mites

Before you resort to the chemical club, consider the benefits against possible harm weigh up. In most cases, chemical pesticides do more harm to plants than they do to clear the spider mite fall. You will achieve the greatest possible success when most of the animals have hatched from their winter eggs and this first generation of mites has not yet laid any summer eggs.

Biological alternative to chemistry

If the infestation is still within limits, you can use sprays based on rapeseed oil with added pyrethrins. Such biological agents are not selective, but kill spider mites as well as beneficial insects. Since not all pests are detected during the first spraying, the treatment must be repeated at regular intervals. Spray the undersides of the leaves generously so that the pests come into direct contact with the poison.

When pesticides make sense

Plants that generally need a location on the windowsill and not on the balcony or terrace can be cultivated should be treated with a pesticide in the event of a spider mite infestation will. This also applies to persistent pest infestation or very large populations. The remedies are often used against Spider mites on orchids used. Even the undemanding cactus or the warmth-loving palm can be freed from spider mites by sprays.

Acaricides are preferred against spider mites. They work against various arachnids and may only be used on ornamental plants. They contain around 15 different active ingredients, some of which are based on sulfur and tin compounds.

Worth knowing and hints:

  • some acaricides also work against biting insects and dust mites
  • not harmful to wild bees, butterflies and bumblebees
  • optimal effect when sprayed directly on spider mite colonies

Prevent an infestation

If you transport potted plants to their winter quarters in autumn, you should carefully check the underside of the leaves for spider mite infestation. If the leaves have already settled, the pests can multiply rapidly over the next few weeks. So that it does not come to that, you should make the living conditions for the mites suboptimal.

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Constant spider mites: find out the cause

The arachnids need warm and dry weather to develop. Wet conditions and cool temperatures severely limit the populations. The pests find ideal conditions at temperatures around 30 degrees Celsius and dry air. Under these conditions, the development time of the mites is greatly reduced, so that they can develop large populations within a very short time.

House plants are often attacked by spider mites in winter when they are on the windowsill directly above the heater. Weakened plants are also found food for the pests, because the plant tissue is particularly easy to pierce and suck out.

What to do to get rid of spider mites permanently

If you want to get rid of spider mites permanently, you need to identify the causes of the infestation and eliminate them. If your houseplants on the windowsill are infested in winter, a change of location can help. If the air in the room is very dry overall, you should place a bowl of water on the heater. You can also moisten a towel and place it over the radiator.

No spider mites in the greenhouse

A natural measure against spider mites in greenhouses is the right mix of plants. Monocultures are generally more susceptible to pests than mixed cultures. They can multiply faster in a one-sided plant stand. Mix vegetables with herbs, making sure that the plants do not belong to the same family. Sufficient space between the plants ensures optimal growth and supports vitality.

No chance of survival in the greenhouse:

  • conditions: Pay attention to evenness and ventilate regularly
  • temperature: Avoid climbing by protecting the greenhouse from the blazing midday sun
  • humidity: large-leaved plants prevent heavy waste

When action doesn't help

spider mites

If, with the best will in the world, the infestation cannot be brought under control, it may be because the cause has not been removed

Experience reports repeatedly show that all measures to combat it have no effect. If so, the correct cause of the spider mite infestation has probably not been identified. In some cases, the pests can multiply despite increased humidity and moderate temperatures. Despite their small size, spider mites are extremely resilient.

Beneficial organisms are ineffective

Predatory mites are efficient pest fighters, but require different conditions for their development than spider mites. You are dependent on a humidity of at least 60 percent. If the spider mite infestation does not subside despite the use of predatory mites, the beneficial insects have probably perished due to the suboptimal living conditions.

No improvement despite high humidity

If measures have been taken to improve the indoor air and the temperature has been reduced, but the plants are still plagued by spider mites, the health of the plant may be weakened. Spider mites can survive well despite adverse living conditions if they can easily get the coveted sap.

If the ornamental plants grow in the same substrate for several years, the nutrients can be used up and deficiency symptoms occur. Weakened plants are attacked again and again. Repot the affected plants and provide them with fresh soil. Herbal brews support vitality and strengthen the plant.

effect preparation fitness
Comfrey supplies potassium, silicic acid and tannins Pour hot water over the leaves and let them steep undiluted for watering
Nettle strengthens the plant tissue Pour warm water over the leaves and let them ferment 1:20 for pouring and 1:50 for spraying
Field horsetail Silicic acid to strengthen the cell walls Soak plants in water for 24 hours and then simmer for 30 minutes 1:20 for spraying
yarrow prevents sucking pests Pour cold water over the herbs and let them steep for 24 hours undiluted for spraying

Recognize spider mites

Spider mites are a suborder and, with around 1,200 species, belong to the mites. They live on the underside of the leaves on different plants and form fine nets to protect themselves. Their food consists exclusively of the sap of the plants. To do this, they prick the epidermis with their mouthparts and suck up the liquid. Some species are more common on certain plants:

  • Schizotetranychus celarius occurs on bamboo
  • Panonychus ulmi is considered a fruit tree spider mite
  • Bryobia kissophylla specializes in ivy
  • Brevipalpus californicus is the name of the orchid spider mite

Their coloring varies depending on the color of the ingested plant sap and can range from yellowish to greenish to orange. Small red spider mites are typical of house plants. White spider mites are still in the larval stage.

Development of the spin mite

Common spider mite (Tetranychus urticae)

This species is characterized by a translucent body that is light to brown-green in color. The two blurred spots on both sides are noticeable. Females overwinter and can survive temperatures as low as -15 degrees Celsius. During the winter they are colored orange-red. In Germany, the common spider mite attacks around 90 cultivated and ornamental plants, including them Frangipani, Beans and wine, potatoes and sunflowers or fruit trees and fruit trees.

Red spider (Panonychus ulmi)

If you find red spider mites on fruit bushes, it is mostly the red spider. It is also known as the fruit tree spider mite because of its preferred food spectrum and occurs on apples and pears, gooseberries and currants or grapevines. It can also affect indoor plants such as Calathea. Females grow to half a millimeter long and are brick-red in color. The white bristles on the back are characteristic. This species usually overwinters in the ice stage on fruit trees.

Digression

Cobwebs

Spider mites owe their German name to the property of producing spider threads. However, not all species from this subordination have this ability. Only the representatives from the subfamily of the Tetranychinae have a large gland. This produces a secretion, which is spun into a double thread with two hollow bristles. Orchid and cactus spider mites do not produce webs.

Form webs:

  • Common spider mites
  • Linden and hawthorn spider mites
  • Fruit tree spider mites

Often affected plants

spider mites

Spider mites infest both cultivated and ornamental plants

Spider mites are not picky about their food crops. They attack a wide variety of plants from different families such as hibiscus,Hawaii palm or Dipladenia. However, there are some plants whose living conditions are ideally suited to the needs of the pests. Weakened plants that do not normally fall into the usual prey schedule can also be attacked.

What helps against common spider mites:

  • Boxwood spider mites fight with potash soap solution
  • Spider mites on ivy Treat with aqueous tea tree oil solution
  • First remove spider mites from hemp by cutting off the leaves, then injecting essential oils
  • Bonsai with Rock flour(€ 12.33 at Amazon *) strengthen and prevent spider mite infestation with onion stock

Banana plant

The large leaves of the musa are popular with spider mites. After successful control, the sucking pests reappear. To get the plant pest-free, you should treat the leaves at least three times a day with a suitable spray. You must not forget the rolled edges at the tip of the leaf, because this is where spider mites linger unnoticed.

Manufacture of sprays:

  1. Pour 500 milliliters of distilled water into a vessel
  2. Dissolve 2.5 grams of potash soap in it
  3. Add 2.5 grams of denatured alcohol

Do not use cold irrigation water or fertilizer during treatment. Algan can be given to weakened plants as a growth aid. It is an organic supplier of potassium that helps build cell walls. In order for the banana plant to recover quickly, you should cut off the lowest leaves. Make sure you cut horizontally to reduce the leakage of juice.

Roses and cucumbers

spider mites

Too much nitrogen attracts spider mites to roses and cucumbers

In the warm summer months there are more prolonged dry periods in which spider mites also find optimal living conditions. They colonize free-range and Cold frame cucumbers equally and do not stop at rose bushes. Spider mites on cucumbers and roses are also often due to an excessively high nitrogen content.

Pay special attention to moist air by regularly watering the substrate in the immediate vicinity. Dusting the leaves with ground sulfur has proven to be a preventive measure. This method liberates Roses from spider mites and at the same time protects against mildew. Sulfur is harmless to bees, but it damages beneficial organisms such as predatory mites and ladybugs.

Tips

Sulfur also helps against pests that have already spread. Pollinate the plants at temperatures above 20 degrees Celsius and repeat the procedure after rainfall.

Fruit trees and fruit bushes

The fruit tree spider mite is a feared pest on orchards and in private gardens. Not only the apple tree is attacked, but also often houses it Lemon tree spider mites. Strong trees can tolerate an infestation of 40 percent. If the infestation continues to increase, you should fight the pest.

When it comes to crops, do without chemical acaricides. As soon as you observe the pest on the underside of the leaves, start with an oil treatment in warm weather. Inject the undersides of the leaves with a neem oil preparation and wet the shrubs and trees with water.

This helps preventively:

  • Tree grate mulch
  • little fertilize, an annual addition of compost is sufficient
  • water regularly

Hydrangeas and oleanders

Spider mites on hydrangeas are a problem with outdoor cultivation when the climate is dry and warm. The pests prefer high temperatures and low humidity just like the oleander. An airy location with a lot of draft reduces spider mites drastically. If the infestation has progressed, you can use a spray based on rapeseed oil and spray the plants dripping wet. Sprays with pyrethrins or abamectin are suitable for ornamental plants. Do this on a cloudy day or in the evening.

Tips

To prevent spider mites from spreading under ornamental plants, you should clear the garden of French herbs. This is often first attacked by the pests, which then spread to ornamental and useful plants.

frequently asked Questions

How do I get rid of spider mites?

First, you should rinse off any visible colonies with a hard jet of water. Then wipe the eggs with a damp cloth. Since the pests like to hide under rolled leaf edges or in leaf axils, spray the entire plant with an aqueous solution of neem or rapeseed oil. Treatment with a spray made from potash soap and alcohol is also effective.

Do spider mites overwinter in the greenhouse?

Greenhouse winter

Spider mites survive even harsh winters

Common spider mites overwinter in the form of red winter females. They form dense colonies in protected hiding spots such as piles of leaves, holes in the ground or under bark scales. Once the pests have spread in the greenhouse, they can also hibernate there in niches and cracks. The common spider mite does not mind temperatures of -15 degrees Celsius. In contrast, the fruit tree spider mite usually overwinters in the ice stage on the bark of infested trees.

Are Spider Mites Dangerous to Humans?

From a medical point of view, spider mites are not dangerous to humans. Your mouth parts are unable to penetrate your skin. They can quickly develop into annoying subtenants, and fighting them takes the last nerve. If spider mites have developed into a plague, often only drastic measures such as radical pruning or the use of pesticides can help.

What damage patterns do spider mites leave on plants?

Spider mites prefer to live on the underside of the leaf near the leaf veins. A single insect can stab the epidermis of the cells more than 20 times per minute and suck out the sap. Yellow spots form first, which make the leaf look speckled. If the infestation is severe, the leaves turn completely brown and wither. Webbing is the first sign of spider mite infestation.

Exceptions that do not form webs:

  • some greenhouse spider mites
  • Orchid spider mites
  • Cactus spider mites

What is the life cycle of spider mites?

The common spider mite develops into an adult animal over four developmental stages. From the egg, which is usually located on the underside of the leaf, hatches a transparent larva that appears white. This first develops into a protonymph and finally into a deutonymph before it turns into a full-grown mite.

In the larval and nymph stage there are active periods that alternate with long periods of rest. Adult spider mites are colored light yellow, orange, light or dark green depending on the food they eat. They can appear red, brown, or almost black and have two dark spots.

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