Tutorials with illustrations and video

Why does a pear tree make sense?

Pears are among the am strongest growing fruit trees. Characteristic for their appearance is a slender pyramidal crown with numerous, tightly upright shoots. Both of these attributes require the occasional use of scissors and saws. It is important to reduce the vigor and bring it into a format suitable for gardening. Furthermore, steep drives are for Fruitwood not suitable, which has to be corrected as part of the incision care. Last but not least, you should stay on the heels of the cheeky wild shoots that sprout from the substrate and want to overgrow the noble pear.

Types of cuts and dates in brief

A pear tree bears the most productive fruit wood on two- and three-year-old long shoots in the form of short skewers, each with a flower bud. It is to be assessed as advantageous that

In parallel to each type of pruning, please pay attention to brazen wild shoots. The best pear tree varieties are refined on a sturdy wild base. Water shoots tirelessly sprout from this base, drawing off nutrients and water. With rapid growth, the blind shoots strive to overgrow the precious part. If you have a steep upward game instinct eyeplease tear it off. A cut leaves too much tissue residue from which the cheeky wildlings sprout again.

Raising a pear tree with a round crown

A predominantly round crown is better exposed and easier to harvest. Although pears naturally form a conical crown, you can direct their growth into the advantageous round shape with a training cut. As illustrated in the figure below, the central drive and the scaffold branches are at a perfect angle to each other. Experience has shown that it takes 6 to 12 years to complete a perfect crown structure on the high or half trunk. How to do it right:

• Select a vertical central shoot with three side shoots as the crown structure
• Cut off all other side branches just before the trunk
• Steep upwardly directed guide branches with wood spread out at an ideal angle of 45 to 60 degrees to the central shoot
• Tie up to flat scaffolding shoots with sisal at the desired angle

From the second year of standing, the upbringing cut is dedicated to the optimal crown shape. Every spring, first remove all shoots that are growing inwards and vertically. Cut the on the four scaffolding shoots last year growth of a third return. It is important that the central drive continues to form an angle of 90 to 120 degrees with its guide branches. Even during the upbringing phase, the scaffold shoots bear the first, short fruit wood. Cut these fruit skewers to an ideal distance of 10 to 20 centimeters. It is important that you rigorously cut away all shoots that compete with the central shoot.

A pear tree develops a round crown in Juice scales with a central branch and three leading branches. The right upbringing ensures that the central shoot and main branches are at an ideal angle of 90 to 120 degrees.

Digression

Spreading shows branches the perfect direction of growth

Conservation pruning promotes young fruit wood

If a pear tree has completed its upbringing as a high or half trunk, pruning is only on the maintenance program every 3 to 5 years. Fruit wood thrives on the permanent crown structure, which gives you juicy pears for up to 5 years. The time periods in which you prune a majestic pear depends on the local conditions, the potential canopy extension and the variety being planted. The following cut has proven itself in the home garden:

• Remove at the beginning: dead wood, competition with central shoots, inwardly directed shoots
• Do not cut back scaffolding drives, but slim them down Derivative cut
• Drooping, old fruit shoots by means of Fruit woodcut rejuvenate

Please pay special attention to the shoots that initially grow flat out of the scaffold shoot and only later change into a steep upward growth. Valuable fruit wood will form on these branches over time. Do not remove or spread these shoots. Under the weight of their fruits, they bow down on their own.

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Fruit wood is the focus of cut care - this is how the fruit wood cut succeeds

If a fruit shoot has carried its sweet pear load for several years, it bends to the ground. At the same time, vitality and the willingness to flower decrease markedly. After 6 years at the latest, it is time for a rejuvenating fruit wood cut. As the illustration below shows, the aged fruit wood makes room for a young shoot garnished with buds, which grows diagonally upwards and outwards. Make the cut where both shoots fork.

Old fruit wood has to give way every 3 to 6 years. Cut off any drooping, worn shoots where the young fruit wood branches at an angle outwards and upwards.

Raising and maintaining pear tree as a spindle

In the modern home garden, cultivation space is limited. Of course, you don't have to do without the pleasure of home-grown pears. Cultivated as space-saving spindle tree there is a suitable place for the pear in the smallest garden. As a further advantage, the pear spindle scores with an early start of the Harvest from the second or third year of standing. How to Complete Education and Maintenance with Ease:

• Raising pear spindles with 1 dominant central shoot, from which 5 to 7 side shoots branch off as fruit wood
• 1. and 2. Year: remove excess steep shoots, lateral fruit shoots slim down to an inner young shoot
• From 3. Year: strongly ramified side branches lead to a short, young side shoot
• Every year: cut out dead, awkward and weak branches

If there are not enough side shoots along the central shoot at an angle of 45 to 60 Degree, straddle the most promising specimens, similar to raising a round crown on High trunk. All other steep drives are removed. Only shorten the central drive when the spindle has reached its final height. The conservation cut focuses on the clearing of dead wood and the rejuvenating fruit wood cut.

frequently asked Questions

Is a second pear tree absolutely necessary for fertilization?

All pears are dependent on a suitable pollinator in close proximity. Mother Nature did not envisage self-pollination for pear trees. Even efforts by competent fruit tree growers to produce self-pollinating varieties have so far come to nothing. For a rich harvest of juicy, sweet pears, at least two trees are required.

Can I keep a pear tree in a bucket on the terrace?

Keeping a bucket in a sunny, sheltered location is no problem. It is important to note a balanced supply of water and nutrients. Furthermore, the vessel should have a volume of at least 25 liters.

Our pear tree bears a lot of fruit. Most of them rot and fall off before they are ripe. What can I do?

Too much fruit is pure stress for a pear tree. There is a lack of nutrients so that the individual fruits can ripen. Above all, a lack of potassium causes pears to rot prematurely, which plays into the hands of pests. Regular thinning of the crown in early spring helps prevent fruit rot. You should also rejuvenate aged fruit wood every three to five years. Starting with the leaves shoot, we recommend a balanced, organic nutrient supply. In addition, you should give a ripening fertilizer in July and August, such as Thomaskali or Kalimagnesia.

The 3 most common mistakes

The pronounced cut tolerance allows cutting errors on a pear to be corrected for years to come. The following table lists three typical beginner mistakes in pear tree pruning and gives tips for correction or effective prevention.

Tips

If there is not enough space in the small garden to grow two pear trees, just plant one tree with three Pear varieties. The "family tree pear" saves an additional pollinator. Since summer, autumn and winter pears gather on the tree, the time window for the harvest remains open for a particularly long time.