Growing celery: Celeriac & Co. in the garden

Bulb, celery and cut celery are widespread. We give tips and tricks on how to grow celery in your own garden.

The real celery (Apium graveolens) is probably the most famous representative of the genus of celery (Apium) in our gardens. There are three different variations in which real celery can be grown:

• celery root (Apiumgraveolensrapaceum)
  Forms a tuber, i.e. a thickened part of the root and the shoot. The green above ground can also be used.
• Celery (Apiumgraveolensdulce)
  The tuber is significantly smaller, but the leaves are stronger than the celeriac. In the aroma is that Celery something midler.
• Celery (Apiumgraveolenssecalinum)
  The celery does not form the tuber at all. The foliage is finer than that of celery and is reminiscent of parsley.

More about the Difference between celeriac, cut and celery can be read here. In the following you will now find out which characteristics of the individual variations of real celery should be observed in your own garden.

Growing real celery: step by step

1. Location: Celery is usually grown in beds. It is of course possible to grow it in a pot, but this is a bit difficult with celeriac. In addition, celery can take up a lot of space and has to be watered much more frequently in the pot. The place in the bed should be chosen for the real celery in a sunny location - this way optimal growth is achieved. But the penumbra is also an acceptable location for the celery. The soils can be a bit heavier and more humid. However, they should not be prone to waterlogging and a loose structure is also important for the proper development of the tuber for the celeriac. In case of doubt, this can be achieved by incorporating sand or organic material. Instead, you can also go to our Plantura Organic tomato & vegetable soil To fall back on.

2. Propagation: Real celery is propagated by sowing. This should be done in March, but indoors, as the small plants are very sensitive to frost. The seeds of the light germinator must not be covered with substrate to protect them from drying out. Instead, a transparent film can be stretched over the seed tray, which is removed as soon as the first seedlings appear.
The early young plants can be planted in the bed from mid-May after the ice saints. There is no longer any risk of the celery suffering from frost damage. A generous distance of around 40 by 40 cm should be selected. When planting out the celeriac, in particular, it is important to ensure that the plant is not set too deep, otherwise the formation of the tuber is made more difficult.

3. Watering and fertilizing: Celery is very thirsty and has to be watered regularly, even when growing in beds, if the drought persists. However, the dreaded waterlogging should be avoided in order to prevent the potentially fatal infestation with root fungi. The bed is prepared in the spring three to four weeks before the celery is planted - i.e. in mid-April and organic materials such as compost are incorporated, so is the most basic supply of nutrients ensured. Occasionally, however, you can still use a fertilizer in summer, for example our Plantura Organic tomato fertilizer, helped and promoted the growth of the celery.

4. Maintain: The different variations of real celery have different needs. It is beneficial for celeriac if the soil in the upper area of ​​the tuber is removed a little as soon as it has reached a diameter of two to three centimeters. If the lower part of the celery shoot is darkened with newspaper from mid-September, for example, the pale celery with its refined taste can be harvested in October. Celery is very self-intolerant and thus reduces its own growth in group plantings. This can be avoided if celery is planted in combination with kohlrabi. In addition, weeds must of course be weeded regularly in the bed so that too many resources are not stolen from the celery.

5. To harvest: The tuber of the celeriac should be at least 5 cm in diameter. At the latest, however, the frost-sensitive storage organ should be harvested in October before the first frosts set in. To do this, the tuber is simply pulled out of the ground on the foliage. The celery, on the other hand, like the cut celery, can be harvested gradually. Once the bars are a suitable size, they can simply be cut off. The celery can also be harvested whole. It is simply cut off just above the surface of the earth and the leaves stay together that way.

However, the seeds of the celery can also be of interest - be it for re-sowing or as a spice. In order for the celery to bloom, however, it has to be overwintered. This is particularly difficult with celeriac, which is extremely sensitive to cold. Its tuber must be covered generously and protectively with sand even before the first frosts. Flowering occurs in the second year and the inflorescences can be harvested as a whole in September. After post-drying, they can either be used for propagation in the following year or they serve as an extraordinary spice in the kitchen.

6. To store: Of course, there are different ways to preserve and preserve the variations of celery.

• celery root
  • do not wash after harvest
  • Can be kept for several weeks in the refrigerator or cellar
  • Peel the tuber and then freeze
  • Chop or grate the tuber and mix with salt in a ratio of 1: 1
• Celeriac
  • defies cooler temperatures better and can therefore be harvested fresh from the bed all winter long in mild winters
  • Freezing is possible, but first cut the sticks into small pieces and boil for three minutes, then rinse in cold water
• Celery
  • best to use fresh like parsley
  • Drying possible without great loss of aroma

Now you know all the pitfalls of the so different variations of real celery and are prepared for growing the spicy plant in your own garden.