Pruning plum trees: tips from the experts

Plum trees return the favor for regular pruning with healthy growth and abundant yields. We'll show you how to do it properly.

Need because of their natural, rather narrow growth habit Plums (Prunus domestica) pay special attention when cutting. This also applies to their subspecies and very close relatives such as plums (Prunus domestica subsp. domestica) or Mirabelle plums (Prunus domestica subsp. syriaca). The aim is to raise the plum tree from a rather narrow crown to a full-crowned, wide tree. With the right pruning measures, depending on the age of the plum, this will certainly succeed.

Pruning plum tree: when is the best time?

As with all trees, the plum can be cut in winter as well as in summer.

• Winter pruning
  • January - April
  • Possible down to -5 ° C without any problems
  • Promotes growth and branching
• Summer cut
  • End of June - August
  • Slows down growth and thus has an effect on excessive new shoots (e. B. after winter pruning) and growth in length (shoot through)

A distinction is always made, depending on the development of the tree, between upbringing, maintenance pruning and rejuvenating pruning. Regardless of which cutting measure is involved, one thing applies in principle: only cuts are made on dry days and if no precipitation is expected for at least the next one or two days is. Moisture harbors the risk of infecting the fresh interfaces with fungal pathogens.

The pruning of the plum tree

If the plum tree is planted in autumn, the pruning is only carried out in the following spring (March until at the latest before flowering), in the case of a spring planting immediately. When pruning the plant, the main thing is to select around four shoots that will later become the main branches. These shoots should be as flat as possible and distributed in all directions. In order for a beautiful crown to develop, the central shoot, which goes up steeply, should not have any competition. All branches that grow steeply upwards near the central shoot are cut off. The selected main shoots are now cut back by at least a third to half of their length on an outward-facing bud. This means that the cut is made directly behind a bud that is not directed towards the tree, but away from it. This strong pruning ensures that the buds on the main branches turn into fruit wood. At the end, all the leading branches should be roughly the same length. All other small branches that grow steeply into the tree are cut off. Small branches that grow rather flat outward are not initially cut.

Special case: If there are almost no side shoots, the central shoot is cut back to about 90 cm and the actual planting cut is made up for the next year with the branches that have formed up to that point.

Pruning young plum trees correctly: parenting pruning

In the following 5 to 8 years, the plum tree is pruned in late winter (February) until shortly before flowering. The aim of the upbringing is to bring the tree into a beautiful shape and to let it grow in such a way that a lot of light can later penetrate the crown.

The three most important steps of the upbringing cut:

• Step 1: For each guide branch (the flat branches that run in all directions that were selected when pruning and have been shortened) choose about three outward-facing side branches over the next two to three years the end. These shouldn't be too close together and should have room in the direction they're growing. All other shoots are partially cut off (if very steep and in competition with the selected side branches) or diverted to younger shoots so that the tip of the branch runs more horizontally. Deriving means that at the point where a branch forks into two shoots, one of them (the steeper one) is cut off exactly at the fork.
• Step 2: The leading branches themselves must not come into competition with the central shoot. If they are very long and pointing upwards, they are trimmed back a little to an outward-pointing bud.
• Step 3: All branches that grow steeply towards the tree trunk and compete with the central shoot are removed. All branches that grow nice and flat out of the tree and do not compete with the central shoot are left in place for the time being and examined again next year.

Summary on pruning young plum trees:

• Determine and shorten the main shoot
• Determine leading instincts
• Shorten the leading shoots to a side shoot that clearly grows outwards
• Shorten the outward-growing side shoot down to a lower, also outward-facing bud

These products are ideal for cutting your shrubs, hedges and trees:

• Felco secateurs: Manual pruning, pruning and pruning shears recommended for all types of cutting. In addition to plastic-coated handles, it has a precision adjustment system for the blade and anvil blade.
• Felco fruit tree and secateurs: Robust fruit tree and secateurs with wire cutter, sap groove and micrometer adjustment.
• Gardena telescopic arm scissors: Practical secateurs for effortless cutting of tall trees and dense shrubs from the ground.

Pruning old plum trees correctly: the maintenance pruning

Was it possible to successfully grow a beautiful crown in the young years of the plum tree, It is also important to maintain the growth form and to increase the fruit formation through conscious pruning measures support financially. As a rule, it is sufficient to thin out the branches a little. Sick, inward-growing or steeply upward-drifting branches can be cut out completely. It is advisable to shorten the leading shoots from time to time and thus promote the formation of side shoots. Plums develop their fruits especially on perennial wood. In this way, the newly sprouting branches can ensure an abundant harvest two to three years after the pruning measure. If necessary, it can be useful to cut out larger shoots if they are only bearing very poorly or if the rest of the tree is robbing too much light for good development.

The taper cut in the plum tree

A radical rejuvenation cut, where you think you have to miss cutting measures for years Compensate with the pruning of some strong branches, should be avoided if possible with the plum tree will. This creates large cuts and an increased risk of fungal and pest infestation. In this case, it is better to first remove only a few branches with a maximum branch diameter of up to 5 cm. To do this, select some steep branches from the middle to give the rest of the tree more light and space. Take it slow, even if you've missed cutting a few years. If you do a maintenance pruning every year from now on, it will do more to rejuvenate the tree than a radical pruning.

Important: In the case of thicker branches, an approx. 15 cm long stump sawn. Because if the heavy branch breaks off during the cut, the wood will tear heavily. The stump then leaves enough space for re-cutting or sawing. Then (regardless of whether the wood is cracked or not) the 15 cm long stump is shortened to a few centimeters. The small stump may not be a visual highlight, but it is important so that a potential fungal infection does not immediately affect the central shoot or main branch. In addition, new shoots often sprout out of stumps and that can't do any harm when rejuvenating.

The mirabelle plum is a subspecies of the plum that is in no way inferior to it in terms of taste. We provide you with the Mirabelle tree and give tips on cultivation, care and harvesting.