table of contents
- Requirements for propagation
- Required utensils
- Cut offshoots / cuttings
- Instructions for planting
- The right earth
- Self-made substrate mixtures
- Tips for care after propagation
- frequently asked Questions
With its bulbous, thickened foot and the graceful, green tuft of leaves, the elephant foot is a specialty among the exotic Houseplants. If necessary, the elephant foot can easily be propagated using cuttings.
In a nutshell
- Elephant foot (Beaucarnea recurvata) also known as elephant tree, Mexican bottle tree or water palm
- palm-like trunk, bottle-like thickened at the base
- serves to store water and nutrients
- in room position no higher than 100 to 150 cm
- Propagation takes place mainly via offshoots or Cuttings
Requirements for propagation
In order to be able to propagate an elephant's foot via cuttings, the mother plant should already have formed at least one side shoot. This is usually the case from the age of three to four years. Because only after a few years does the elephant foot form usable side shoots, which can then be used as cuttings. In order not to damage the plant, the trunk should have reached a minimum height of 20 cm.
If the plant is hesitant to develop side shoots, it is possible to cut them back or cut the trunk at the desired height so that the formation of side shoots is stimulated. As a rule, two to three possible cuttings are then formed.
Note: If you want to shorten the trunk, you should then treat larger wounds with a wound closure agent to avoid infections. The utensils used, such as a knife or saw, should also be disinfected before and after the cut.
Required utensils
- Depending on the number of cuttings, one or more small pots
- should not be higher than 10 cm
- loose, permeable potting soil
- sharp knife, if necessary a sharp saw
- translucent film for covering or covering hood
Cut offshoots / cuttings
The best time to cut cuttings and propagate the elephant foot is in spring and summer. They form in the leaf axils of the elephant foot (Beaucarnea recurvata). It goes without saying that the potential seedlings and of course the mother plant should be healthy and free from pests.
The side shoots are cut off just above the trunk. There should always be a piece of wood at the bottom. Now you shorten the leaves to approx. five centimeters to keep evaporation as low as possible. After that it can be planted.
Instructions for planting
- Fill one or more small pots with nutrient-poor potting soil
- alternatively a sand-peat mixture in equal parts
- Insert cuttings about two inches deep into the ground
- then press the earth lightly
- Moisten the substrate and keep it evenly moist
- Provide pots with translucent covers
- Foil, glass or plastic cover
- Cover ensures high humidity
- must be removed regularly for short periods of time for ventilation
- optimal floor temperature between 22 and 25 degrees
Now the cuttings are placed in a bright and warm place, ideally with sun in the morning and in the evening. It is essential to avoid direct sunlight during lunchtime. As soon as the first new shoot appears, about after one to two months, the cover can be removed and the cuttings can be moved into larger containers with suitable soil.
The right earth
If possible, the young offshoot of the elephant's foot should not be planted in any soil. A soil pH value between 5.8 and 6.8 is recommended. Commercially available potting soil is often only suitable to a limited extent, as it carries out important tasks such as B. Water and nutrient regulation and buffering power does not lastingly do justice. In addition, it is usually quite rich in nutrients. For example, cactus soil or self-made substrate mixtures are better suited. So cactus soil is a reliable water reservoir over a longer period of time, has an airy and loose consistency and promotes unhindered rooting.
Self-made substrate mixtures
Cactus soil
- from 50% flower or potting soil
- 15% coconut fiber
- 15% dry loam, clay, lava or expanded clay fragments
- 20% quartz sand
- mix all components well
Leaf earth
- from crushed autumn leaves and ripe compost
- only healthy leaves without fungal attack
- if any, dung or compost worms
- Lawn clippings and algae lime to regulate the pH value
- instead of lawn clippings, horn shavings, or flour or manure
Tip: Foliage soil is particularly fine crumbly and almost free of root residues and weeds.
Mixture with potting soil
- three parts of high quality potting soil
- two to three parts of soil with clay
- a part of quartz sand
- a part of lavalite, lava granulate or pumice gravel
- Adjust the pH value with earth or correct
Tips for care after propagation
- Care of young plants similar to those of older specimens
- Young plants even more sensitive
- as long as the thickened trunk is missing, water regularly
- rather dry than too damp
- Avoid waterlogging at all costs
- Risk of root rot and soft trunk
- Fertilize for the first time after about six weeks
- Fertilize once a month until October
frequently asked Questions
The elephant foot grows very slowly and takes about 20 years to reach a size of 150-200 cm. In order to limit its size, it can be cut to the desired height with a clean and disinfected saw without any problems. After that, both watering and fertilizing must be significantly reduced. Evaporation occurs through the leaves. If you shorten the trunk, the leaves are automatically removed as well. As a result, the plant needs significantly less water.
Before you can put the elephant's foot out in the summer, it should be a bit older and more resistant. It should be between 20 and 25 degrees warm and dry. At first it is advisable to accustom the plants carefully to the sun and fresh air. As soon as the temperatures go in the direction of 10 degrees, they have to be brought back into the house.
The elephant foot is not a poisonous plant. However, it is better to keep cats away from them. They generally like to eat grass-like leaves. If you ingest them in larger quantities, the saponins they contain can cause irritation of the mucous membranes.
