Like a Venus, it dresses in red, exudes an attractive scent and spreads its leaf arms. All insects are welcome on it. And then she lives up to the second part of the name. The trap snaps shut, the fly is at its mercy and is eaten along with its wings. Would you also like to experience this drama up close? But what setting does this diva need?
A lot of light and sun are existential for the Venus flytrap. Only when she gets enough of it will her catch leaves turn red. The red color simulates a flower and thus attracts the nutrient-rich insects. The plant would grow in partial shade, but its leaves would remain green. The ideal location has the following characteristics:
As the hunter of the swamps, the Venus flytrap must naturally also have its roots in the wet soil as a houseplant. Since the potting soil is not kept moist by nature in closed walls, the owner has to act regularly as a waterbringer. This task is quite a challenge, because the Venus flytrap can react like a mimosa if mistakes are made. You should definitely not do this:
A question that is atypical for plants comes to mind with this peculiar plant. Does the Venus Flytrap have to be fed? And if so, with what? What is your favorite food? Does she need variety on the menu? Before further questions arise in this regard, it should be clearly stated: The Venus flytrap is absolutely capable of catching enough prey and thus taking care of itself.
The green huntress can snap her trapping leaves shut in a split second while hunting insects. It's a fascinating performance and one of the main reasons this carnivore is held. Unfortunately, nobody can wait next to her around the clock so as not to miss this moment. Extra feeding is therefore tempting for every owner. There is nothing against this if you observe the following.
Repotting after the winter break is a good opportunity to provide for offspring. 
It takes about a year for the Venus flytrap to fill its pot with roots and start to grow over the edge. Then it's time to give her a new pot.
The break reduces the maintenance effort to a minimum:
The Venus flytrap is partially hardy and could survive the winter outside in milder areas. The emphasis is on "could". There can be no security, so this possibility of wintering needs to be carefully considered. Older, well-developed specimens have the greatest chance of survival. But they also need a protected space and additional cover.
Aphid infestation follows little light, i.e. mostly in the slow-growing winter time. Regularly check your carnivores for aphids. They can be rinsed off easily, which is usually sufficient as a first measure.
Gray coating that looks like mold is the so-called. Gray mold. Remove all infected parts of the plant. If that's not enough, you might have to help with a fungicide or abandon the plant.
Tip: If the vitality of the Venus flytrap has suffered, its natural defenses can be rebuilt with a plant tonic.
origin
The Venus Flytrap, offered. Dionaea muscipula, is originally a southern beauty from North and South Carolina. It thrives in the wild in barren swamps. Because of the fascinating hunger for insects, she is now allowed to demonstrate her hunting skills in living rooms around the world.Growth and catch mechanism
The Venus flytrap is small and grows slowly and herbaceously. It takes several years to bloom. In spring, a stalk about 30 cm long grows on which several white flowers develop. But they do not lure their prey with the scent of the flowers. Your approx. 4 cm long leaves look like trapping irons and that's how they work. As soon as they feel contact on their surface, they snap shut in a fraction of a second. The red color of the leaf surface and a sophisticated blend of scents attract the victim. It takes a long time to digest for days until there is hardly anything left of it. Each catch leaf can only trigger this catch mechanism a few times. But new traps are constantly awakening.Location
A lot of light and sun are existential for the Venus flytrap. Only when she gets enough of it will her catch leaves turn red. The red color simulates a flower and thus attracts the nutrient-rich insects. The plant would grow in partial shade, but its leaves would remain green. The ideal location has the following characteristics:- very sunny
- flooded with light
- South window is ideal
- with humidity above 50%
- no drafts
- Temperature from 22 degrees Celsius
- no high temperature fluctuations
Substrate
Ordinary potting soil and the native soil of these carnivores don't have much in common. So spare the Venus flytrap with this uniform mixture and give it a special, lime-free substrate from specialist shops. Alternatively, you can make a mixture of peat and sand yourself. Fertilizer, humus and other nutrients must not get lost in it.to water
As the hunter of the swamps, the Venus flytrap must naturally also have its roots in the wet soil as a houseplant. Since the potting soil is not kept moist by nature in closed walls, the owner has to act regularly as a waterbringer. This task is quite a challenge, because the Venus flytrap can react like a mimosa if mistakes are made. You should definitely not do this:- give her calcareous water that will kill her in no time at all
- pour from above, as there is a risk of rot
- let the earth dry out
- the substrate should always be moist
- Rainwater is ideal
- alternatively, use decalcified water
- Pour directly into the coaster
- in summer there should always be water in the saucer, approx. 2 cm
- in winter the substrate should only be moderately moist
- in winter it is enough to water once a month
humidity
Not only do their feet want to stand wet, the leaves also like to protrude into moist air. According to experts, this should be at least 50% high. Except on rainy days, the Venus flytrap will not find such high humidity in our climate, unless its owner has mercy and helps.- Indoor fountains ensure a better indoor climate
- Place glass bowls with water nearby
- Cultivation in glass containers
- Hang the humidifier on the heater
- spray with water in summer, but without lime!
Fertilize
The Venus flytrap is originally used to barren soils. And because their roots find hardly any nutrients in the soil there, evolution has found a solution with a lot of ingenuity. The Venus Flytrap gets the nutrients it needs from the air by attracting and digesting insects that are flying nearby. Since she is a so-called weak eater, these nutrients of animal origin are sufficient for her. It does not have to be fertilized additionally.Feed
A question that is atypical for plants comes to mind with this peculiar plant. Does the Venus Flytrap have to be fed? And if so, with what? What is your favorite food? Does she need variety on the menu? Before further questions arise in this regard, it should be clearly stated: The Venus flytrap is absolutely capable of catching enough prey and thus taking care of itself. The green huntress can snap her trapping leaves shut in a split second while hunting insects. It's a fascinating performance and one of the main reasons this carnivore is held. Unfortunately, nobody can wait next to her around the clock so as not to miss this moment. Extra feeding is therefore tempting for every owner. There is nothing against this if you observe the following.
- feed them occasionally rather than regularly
- only with live animals
- Prey no larger than a third of the catch leaf
- feed spiders, flies, beetles, wasps or ants
Cut flowers
The formation of the flowers binds a lot of energy. If this is not particularly important to you, you can cut off the flower stems as soon as they show. Then more energy remains for the formation of the catch leaves, which are much more interesting for most people anyway. However, if you want to propagate Venus flytrap from seeds, you will need to leave a few flowers to allow the seeds to mature.Propagation by cuttings
Do you need more beautiful flycatchers? No problem, propagation by leaf cuttings is easy and the chances of success are excellent.1. Choose a healthy, strong leaf.
2. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the sheet close to the base. There should be a few roots on it.
3. Fill a pot with a suitable substrate.
4. Moisten the substrate well.
5. Insert the leaf cutting into the substrate.
6. Keep the substrate moist.
Before a new plant develops, you still have to be patient. Because it takes months to get there.Multiplication by division
Repotting after the winter break is a good opportunity to provide for offspring. 1. Get the Venus flytrap out of the pot.
2. Remove the substrate from the root ball.
3. Divide the rhizome with a sharp and clean knife. Roots and leaves should remain on each section.
4. Plant the new cuts in separate pots.
5. Keep the substrate well moist so that the roots grow quickly.
Tip: Until the roots have developed well, the young Venus flytrap should be protected from excessive sunlight.Propagation by seeds
The last propagation variant is, in view of the well-functioning cuttings propagation and propagation by division, rather something for those who like to experiment with an extra depot of patience. Many years can pass before the hatched Venus flytrap blooms and catches flies. The seeds are cold germs, which requires a long sowing procedure.1. Place the seeds in a closed container that will protect the seeds from mold.
2. Put the container with the seeds in the refrigerator for about a month.
3. Choose a shallow pot that is evenly perforated from below.
4. Add peat and sand and place the pot in a bowl filled with water.
5. When the mixture is soaked, drain the excess water.
6. Spread the seeds on the substrate, a few centimeters apart. Do not cover the seeds!
7. Stretch cling film over the pot and poke a few holes in it.
8. Put the pot in a light place.
9. The first seedlings will appear in about 2-4 weeks. Now remove the foil.
10. If the plants get too tight, give each one a separate pot.
Tip: Chop up the large pieces of peat so that they do not create insurmountable obstacles for the roots that are still tender.Repot
It takes about a year for the Venus flytrap to fill its pot with roots and start to grow over the edge. Then it's time to give her a new pot.- Pot can be flat, as the roots grow flat
- use suitable substrate
- the ideal time is February / March after hibernation
- immediately before moving to a warmer location
- dead parts of the root must be removed
- use clean knife or scissors
- do not dig the ball in too deep
- water well
Overwinter
The Venus flytrap needs a rest in winter. In good time in autumn, it makes its need for rest clear by forming smaller leaves. The catch leaves also no longer open and do not turn red. Now look for suitable accommodation for them. It should be very bright, with temperatures of 5 to 10 degrees. Drafts and strong temperature fluctuations should be avoided as much as possible. Unheated stairwells, bright attics or basement rooms with daylight come into consideration.The break reduces the maintenance effort to a minimum:
- no fertilizer or Lining
- little water, only about 1-2 times a month
- no waterlogging
Winter in the refrigerator
A somewhat strange solution for missing winter quarters is your own refrigerator. But don't worry, the Venus trap can handle it and your food won't be harmed either. Due to the tightness in the refrigerator, the Venus flytrap can move in there without the pot and without the substrate.1. Completely free the plant from the substrate
2. Cut off any parts growing above ground.
3. Rinse off the root ball with lukewarm water.
4. Wrap the root ball with several damp layers of kitchen paper.
5. Put this "packet" in a transparent bag and seal it tightly.
6. Keep the bag in the refrigerator until April.
7. Remove any rotten roots.
8. Plant the Venus Flytrap again.
Tip: Get the plant used to the blazing sun only slowly.Winter in the open
The Venus flytrap is partially hardy and could survive the winter outside in milder areas. The emphasis is on "could". There can be no security, so this possibility of wintering needs to be carefully considered. Older, well-developed specimens have the greatest chance of survival. But they also need a protected space and additional cover. Diseases and pests
With good care, the Venus flytrap is not very susceptible to disease. In rare cases, they face some challenges. When the air is dry and warm in winter quarters, the Venus flytrap can move from Spider mites be infested. On the underside of the leaf, webs are visible, the top has silver-colored dots. The humidity should be increased, that helps a lot.Aphid infestation follows little light, i.e. mostly in the slow-growing winter time. Regularly check your carnivores for aphids. They can be rinsed off easily, which is usually sufficient as a first measure.
Gray coating that looks like mold is the so-called. Gray mold. Remove all infected parts of the plant. If that's not enough, you might have to help with a fungicide or abandon the plant.
Tip: If the vitality of the Venus flytrap has suffered, its natural defenses can be rebuilt with a plant tonic.