Chrysanthemums » Plant, care for, fertilize and more

Plant chrysanthemums properly

To one chrysanthemum planting properly, only a few aspects are relevant. Follow these steps:

• Soak the potted seedlings in water for 10-20 minutes
• Dig a pit in the loosened, weeded soil with twice the volume of the root ball
• Optimize the excavated soil with compost and horn shavings
• Unpot the flower and plant it up to the root neck
• Tie tall growing varieties to a support stick

Press the soil firmly with your hands and pour in a good gulp of water. Finally, spread a layer of mulch with fern leaves, leaves, grass clippings, bark mulch, or stinging nettles. In the pot, use a compost-based potting soil as a substrate and spread a drainage out of potsherds over the water drain.
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care tips

The cornerstones of professional care include a balanced water and nutrient balance, the right cut and prudent overwintering. All important details at a glance:

• Water the flower as soon as the substrate has dried
• Organic every 14 days from May to September fertilize or one in May and July long-term fertilizer apply
• From a height of 50 cm, cut in half once to optimize stability
• Rinse faded flowers regularly
• Do not cut back the drawn-in leaves close to the ground until late winter

After the autumn flowering, heap hardy chrysanthemum species and varieties with leaves, straw or needle sticks. Spread jute cloths or a felt hood over bushes. Place potted plants in frost-free winter quarters. Do not let the plants dry out during the winter and do not apply fertilizer.

Which location is suitable?

The species-rich flower favors a sunny to semi-shady location, without summer heat build-up. The higher the chrysanthemum grows, the more wind-protected the location should be. Cultivated as a houseplant, the flower adorns a wintry window sill in a sunny spot with temperatures of 15-18 degrees Celsius.
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The right planting distance

A general measurement for the perfect planting distance is not possible in view of the diverse variety of species and varieties. To determine the appropriate distance to the planting neighbor, take a look at the expected growth height and divide this value by 2.

What soil does the plant need?

In order to chrysanthemums stage their flower spectacle, they should be offered the following soil conditions:

• Nutritious and humic
• Fresh, moist and without the risk of waterlogging
• Sandy-loamy, permeable

If in doubt, prepare the soil with simple soil additives so that the flower feels comfortable. Sandy soil can be improved with mature compost, while heavy soil can be improved with sand.

What is the best planting time?

The best time to plant chrysanthemums is spring and early summer through mid/late June. At this time you give the flower enough time to establish itself well in the substrate and survive the winter that follows later in good health. Specimens grown in containers can still be planted in the ground in autumn, provided they are a hardy variety.

When is flowering time?

The flowering period begins in August/September when the days are getting shorter. Depending on the species and variety chosen, the flowering period extends over the months of September and October and into November. Half-tall chrysanthemums bloom as a houseplant throughout the winter at a bright window seat at 15-16 degrees Celsius.

Cut chrysanthemums correctly

If you regularly cut out wilted flowers, this measure will help to extend the flowering period. If a chrysanthemum bush has reached a height of 50 centimeters for the first time, cut back all shoots by half. This trick improves stability without affecting flowering. However, only cut back close to the ground in late winter so that the foliage can protect the plant from frost and cold water.
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Water chrysanthemums

Water the flower regularly and thoroughly, without causing waterlogging. You can water a dense chrysanthemum bush yourself after a rain shower, as raindrops do not reach the ground. If the flower lets its leaves droop, it should be watered immediately.
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Fertilize chrysanthemums properly

The nutrient requirements of chrysanthemums are medium to high. From May to September, fertilize the flower every 14 days with an organic or mineral-organic preparation. repeated mulching with compost is recommended. Fertilize winter-flowering indoor plants until the end of the flowering period with a liquid fertilizer, which you add to the irrigation water every second watering.

Diseases

The chrysanthemum is primarily susceptible to fungal infections. The two most important diseases at a glance:

• mildew: fight the mealy-white fungal growth with milk-water in a ratio of 1:9
• Chrysanthemum rust: in the case of yellowish-green spots, remove diseased leaves and fight pathogens with a rapeseed oil preparation

Be sure to avoid sprinkling the leaves and flowers when watering. This prudence serves to effectively prevent diseases.

pests

Arm the chrysanthemum against the following pests:

• Leaf miner fly: collect the 3 mm small insects, cut off infested leaves, fight with neem preparation
• Leaf bugs: shake off the 5-10 mm large, winged pests early in the morning onto a pad, fight with neem seeds
• Vine weevil: use baited traps and nematodes to control adult black beetles and larvae

If the ubiquitous aphids attack the flower, get rid of the plague with a soap solution made from 15 ml of soft soap, 1 dash of spirit and 1 liter of water.

hibernate

Some chrysanthemum species and varieties have the potential to survive the winter in the bed. The pink flowering winter aster 'Julchen' is one of them, as are the white flowering varieties 'White Bouquet' and 'Poesie'. However, the plants cannot get through the cold season without any protective measures. How to do it right:

• Before the first frost, heap the flower thickly with leaves, straw, compost or pine needles
• Additionally protect bushes with newspaper, jute ribbons or garden fleece
• Leave the withered leaves on the plant until early spring, then cut them off

Ideally, chrysanthemums in a bucket or balcony box move to a bright winter quarters where temperatures are between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius. Only water the flower so much that the root ball does not dry out and stop adding fertilizer.
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Propagating chrysanthemums

Use the uncomplicated cuttings method to propagate your most beautiful flower from a single variety. In the period from May to June, cut 10-15 cm long, non-flowering top cuttings. This is how the offspring is successful:

• Start the cut just below one eye
• Defoliate the offshoot except for the upper pair of leaves
• Plant in small pots filled with pricking soil

In a partially shaded, sheltered location, keep the substrate constantly moist. If a first shoot appears, the underground rooting is proceeding as desired. To force the process, put a transparent hood over the cutting, which is aired daily.
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How do I plant correctly?

Transplanting the perennial every 3-5 years helps to maintain vitality and willingness to flower. At the same time, this measure is used for uncomplicated propagation. In early spring, dig up the root ball and divide it with the spade. The less the roots are damaged, the better for the flower. Plant the segments at the new or previous location without any further delay.

Chrysanthemums in a pot

Potted chrysanthemums adorn balconies, terraces and house entrances. They also set eye-catching accents on the partially shaded window sill. In order for the blooming splendor to extend unrestrictedly over 20 to 40 days, it depends on this care:

• Keep the substrate constantly slightly moist
• Fertilize liquid every 14 days during the growth and flowering period
• Clean out faded flowers
• Only cut off the foliage close to the ground when it has completely withered

When winter knocks at the garden door, potted chrysanthemums move to bright, frost-free winter quarters. The risk of the root ball freezing through is too great due to its exposed location. Water and fertilize winter-flowering varieties in a sunny location at temperatures not exceeding 20 degrees Celsius.
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Are chrysanthemums poisonous?

With regard to the poison content of a chrysanthemum, people can be given the all-clear. For pets, especially dogs and cats, the flower is life-threatening. Even small amounts of the flowers and leaves trigger the worst symptoms of poisoning. Therefore, do not include the ornamental plant in the planting plan if you want to protect your four-legged housemates.
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Chrysanthemums do not bloom

If the chrysanthemum you have grown yourself simply does not want to bloom, it will receive too much daylight. As a typical short-day plant, flower induction is closely related to the duration of day and night. You can simulate the natural process to encourage the flower to bloom. To do this, carry the plant into a dark room in the early evening or put an opaque cover over it. If the flower receives less than 10 hours of light a day over a period of 6 weeks, the longed-for blooms unfold.

brown leaves

Brown leaves signal that the flower is not doing well. If it is mostly older foliage, there is a lack of nutrients. Fertilize with a liquid fertilizer for flowering plants, as this is absorbed more quickly. If all the leaves turn brown, the flower is suffering from drought stress. Water chrysanthemums regularly and generously, even after a rain shower.

How do I get chrysanthemums to bloom?

In professional nurseries it is common practice to control the flowering of chrysanthemums with a simple blackout trick. Since the flower is one of the short-day plants, it waits until the days are getting shorter before flowering. If you simulate this process, you will lure the flower out early. This is how the gardening trick succeeds:

• Put a black bucket over the flower in the early evening
• Leave the cover on long enough for the chrysanthemum to be in the light for less than 10 hours

Do this for a period of 6 weeks and the buds will open regardless of the date on the calendar. The short-day simulation only works to your full satisfaction if the flower is not caught by a single ray of light during the period of darkness.