Planting, tending, pruning and more

With countless white or pink starry flowers, Gypsophila creates floral opulence in the sunny cottage garden, the rose bed or sandy-dry herbaceous borders. The lush perennial is far too good to be reduced to its function as an accompaniment to the bouquet. Explore all relevant details about cultivating Gypsophila paniculata here.

Plant gypsophila properly

Wise gypsophila a location in full sun dominated by lean, sandy-gravelly soil. The more finely crumbly the soil is prepared, the more vital the fleshy, strong root system develops. If you are concerned about permeability, add fine grit, gravel or sand to the substrate. Compost or other organic soil additives have no place in Gypsophila paniculata. How to plant gypsum weed properly:

Place the still potted root ball in a container with water
Meanwhile, dig a spacious planting pit
Create a small mound at the bottom to place the potted root ball on top
Fill with substrate up to the lower pair of leaves, press and water

The small mound of coarse-grained substrate effectively prevents waterlogging. In addition, this gardening trick helps to ensure that permanent winter wetness does not cause root rot.

care tips

It is amazing how short a care program the long flowering period of Gypsophila paniculata results from. while on Fertilize is to be avoided altogether, Giessen can still be considered during summer droughts. Cutting back the withered stems down to the foliage will lure out a second cluster of flowers. Cut off the gypsophila in late winter to just above the ground. If you spread a layer of brushwood over the bed when it is wet in winter, this prudence protects the perennial from root rot.
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Which location is suitable?

Native to the sun-drenched, dry and hot regions of Southern Europe, Gypsophila feels particularly at home in a rock garden and gravel bed in full sun. The soil should be sandy-gravelly, lean and dry so that the airy flower clouds thrive magnificently. There should be no sign of waterlogging anywhere, because the magnificent perennial is not made for damp, wet soil.
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The right planting distance

A cleverly chosen planting distance makes a significant contribution to the fact that Gypsophila paniculata can spread its light, airy veil of flowers in a harmonious look. Adequate to the different growth heights and widths, we have compiled recommended planting distances for you:

Growth height 10-15 cm and width up to 30 cm results in a planting distance of 20-30 cm
Growth height 20-30 cm and width 60-80 cm results in a planting distance of 80 cm
Growth height 30-40 cm and width 20-30 cm results in a planting distance of 30 cm
Growth height 80-100 cm and width 40-80 cm results in a planting distance of 50 cm
Growth height 100-120 cm and width up to 80 cm results in a planting distance of 70 cm

What soil does the plant need?

Wherever the soil is sandy-gravelly, dry, lean and calcareous in structure, Gypsophila paniculata unfolds its graceful flower beauty. The creeping species decorate the crown of a dry stone wall in an inimitable way, while the tall gen sky-high gypsum herbs in the well-drained soil of the rock garden a summery rendezvous give. For potted plants, we recommend lean herbal soil as a substrate, to which you add vital lime or rock flour add fine grit or sand.

What is the best planting time?

So that no late ground frosts affect the delicate veil of flowers of Gypsophila paniculata, choose a date from mid-May as the planting time. If you favor autumn as the classic time for planting perennials, you cannot avoid adequate winter protection for the young plant. The effort is rewarded with an early beginning of the flowering period next year from mid-April.

When is flowering time?

Arrange early-flowering species with later-flowering gypsophila and the fragrant clouds of flowers will float through the garden all summer long. Low gypsophila (Gypsophila repens), for example, flowers from May to July, while paniculate gypsophila (Gypsophila paniculata) flowers from June to September.
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Cut gypsophila properly

The linchpin of professional care for Gypsophila paniculata is the right cut. How to handle the topic with expertise:

Cut off withered panicles after the first bloom to encourage gypsophila to bloom again
The first pruning is done down to the foliage
Either leave the second bloom for self-sowing or cut it down to the first pair of leaves
Do not cut back close to the ground until early spring

Use Gypsophila paniculata as a vase decoration or bouquet accessory, cut the flower stalks early in the morning when two-thirds of all buds have opened.
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Water the gypsophila

The additional supply of water is of secondary importance for the growth and abundance of flowers in a Gypsophila paniculata. Only water the gypsophila a little if it is dry in summer. Cultivated in tubs, watering is only required when the top 5-6 cm of the substrate is dry.

Fertilize gypsophila properly

Gypsophila is one of the rare exceptional plants on which the administration of fertilizer in any form has a counterproductive effect. Even using a mulch layer of organic materials will have negative effects on Gypsophila paniculata, up to and including a complete refusal to flower.

Diseases

If a gypsophila takes care of itself while the base of the stem turns dark, the plant is suffering from a fungal infection. Various types of spores are possible culprits, all of which cause similar symptoms. Dig up the infested perennial to prevent further spread in the garden. So that the dilemma does not repeat itself, you should not expose Gypsophila paniculata to waterlogging, always keep the soil permeable and do not administer any nitrogen-rich fertilizer.

pests

Snails and rabbits like to eat gypsophila. Since you are dealing with two predators of the magnificent perennial that are as stubborn as they are rabid, the following precautions are indispensable:

Plant Gypsophila paniculata with snail collars in snail-infested areas
Lay out moving barriers around the bed or erect a snail fence
Set up gap traps with slug pellets if the infestation pressure is high

Keep wild rabbits off the property with a rabbit wire fence that goes 12 inches into the ground. In addition, the specialist trade offers special deterrents that make the rabbits run away when they are used.

hibernate

Gypsophila paniculata thrives as a fully hardy perennial. While the above-ground parts of the plant are pulled in during the winter, the root ball in the ground survives even the lowest minus temperatures undamaged. The only problem is too much wintry wetness, so we recommend covering a large area with brushwood. In the pot there is always the risk that the almost unprotected root ball will freeze through. Therefore, wrap vessels in bubble wrap and place them on wood.

multiply gypsophila

The busy summer bloomer brings so much joy in the ornamental garden that the desire for more specimens is stimulated. Choose from the following propagation approaches, all of which are straightforward:

cut cuttings, in order to root them in the poor substrate during the summer
Division of the root ball in spring or autumn
sowing behind glass from March

How do I plant correctly?

Since Gypsophila paniculata develops a strong, fleshy root system, transplanting the perennial is risky. If a change of location is unavoidable, choose a date in spring. In this way, a sufficiently long period is available for re-rooting until winter. Cut off the side roots in a radius that roughly corresponds to the growth height of the gypsophila. As an exception, the plant is watered repeatedly at the new bed site in order to encourage the formation of fresh fine roots.

Gypsophila in a pot

With gypsophila in a pot, the sunny balcony is transformed into a sea of white and pink flowers. To enjoy this splendor all summer long, use a lean herb or pricking soil as a substrate. Add fine gravel or sand to guarantee the desired permeability. A potsherd drainage over the water outlet prevents harmful waterlogging. Only water Gypsophila paniculata when it is dry and do not give fertilizer. If you cut off the first blossom down to the foliage, with a little luck a late summer rebloom will appear. Before the first frost, wrap the pot in foil or take it to a frost-free winter quarters.
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Is gypsophila poisonous?

In small doses, gypsophila has a healing effect that is aimed at light discomfort in the throat area. In folk medicine, however, gypsum herb has long since lost its importance. The saponins contained in Gypsophila paniculata, on the other hand, cause significant symptoms of poisoning in humans and animals in large quantities. Therefore, do not leave small children and pets unsupervised within the reach of Gypsophila.
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Can gypsophila be dried?

It appears like magic and is rather rare in the floral kingdom, because Gypsophila paniculata hardly loses any of its natural beauty after drying. Proceed as follows to preserve the delicate flower panicles for a long time:

Cut off the blossomed stems when dry
Remove the leaves at the bottom
Tie the gypsophila in small bouquets with raffia

Hung upside down in the airy, dark and rainproof place, the flowers will dry within a few days. As the moisture escapes from the stalks, lightly pull the tying material along. Then keep the gypsophila at room temperature so that it does not start to trickle.
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Beautiful varieties

Bristol Fary: Filigree branched Gypsophila paniculata with white flowers over blue-green foliage; Growth height 80-100 cm
Rose Veil: Delicate pink, filled spherical flowers characterize this very compact variety; Growth height 30-40 cm
Flamingo: The variety impresses with pink flowers and a long flowering period until autumn; Growth height up to 120 cm
Snowflake: High-class gypsophila with white, fragrant flowers; Growth height up to 100 cm
Compacta Plena: Double gypsophila in white, ideal for balcony boxes thanks to its overhanging growth; Growth height 30 cm