If roses are to be propagated, then there are different methods. Propagation is easy via cuttings, where several new plants can be grown from a single longer branch of the rose bush.
In a nutshell
- best time for cuttings between June and August
- Sticks should be cut in late winter
- Several sections can be used from a rose branch
- finished cuttings are only three to four centimeters long
- Remove all but one leaf from the cutting
Table of Contents
- The right moment
- preparation
- remove shoots
- Step-by-step instructions
- 1. Prepare bowl for cultivation
- 2. rooting powder
- 3. Plug in
- 4. Further care
- 5. seperate
- Cuttings in the garden bed
- frequently asked Questions
The right moment
Depending on which variety of roses it is, cuttings or cuttings are used. For this purpose, however, different times are ideal for removing them from the rose plants. The schedules for taking cuttings or cuttings are as follows:
- cuttings in late winter
- before budding
- cuttings during the growing season
- from June to August
preparation
In order to cut the branches for the cutting propagation, the right tool is required. Rose scissors are the right choice here:
- cutting tool up sharpness check
- clean and disinfect
- results in a smooth and clean cut surface
- there is no damage to the plant and shoots
Tip: Even if you have stowed the rose scissors neatly in the garden shed, you should still have the cutting surface in front of the Disinfect cutting edges again so that you can be sure that no bacteria or fungi have settled here to have.
remove shoots
Depending on the type of rose and the removal of cuttings or sticks to propagate the rose, these are cut at the right time. After that, the pieces need to be prepared for rooting:
| cutting | stick |
|---|---|
| – use semi-lignified branch | – only use woody shoots |
| – Remove the flower and tip above a leaf | – Remove tip above |
| – Cut into pieces about four centimeters long | – Cut the stick about as long as a pencil |
| – Leave a leaf on each cutting | – Has neither leaves nor buds |
| - put in the water | - put in the water |
A notice: So that you know afterwards which cuttings or sticks belong to which variety, you should place them in the water separately according to variety and label the glass if necessary.
Step-by-step instructions
After the sticks and cuttings have been cut and awaiting further use in the water, proceed according to the following step-by-step instructions.
1. Prepare bowl for cultivation
Ideally, a shell of a mini greenhouse is available. If this is not the case, individual small pots are used:
- basically potting soil use
- Fill bowls with this
- has a permeable and fine structure
- little fertilized
- as a result, roots grow faster
- Press substrate into bowl
Tip: If you press the potting soil in the bowl a little, the shoots will later stand stably in the ground. In addition, it is easier to insert the pieces if the earth is pressed on beforehand.
2. rooting powder
The already prepared shoots waiting in the water are now removed from it. There is a trick to rooting even faster:
- Dip bottom ends in rooting powder
- is available in well-stocked gardening shops
- Powder consists of extract of algae
- promotes root formation in a natural way
3. Plug in
Several cuttings or cuttings can be placed in a seed tray. However, these should not touch each other here:
- Insert deep enough so leaves are just above soil
- Leaves should not touch
- Insert sticks about three to four centimeters
- with the direction of growth upwards
- an upper eye should look out
Tip: So that the selected healthy shoots remain healthy, you should absolutely avoid touching the interfaces with your fingers. This is because bacteria or viruses could get into the wood and damage it in such a way that rooting does not occur.
4. Further care
After the rose cuttings have been planted in the ground, some care is required so that the shoots can root and new roses can form from them:
- Moisten well with water from the spray bottle
- Put the transparent hood over the growing bowl
- place individual small pots under the cut-off PET bottle
- choose a bright place
- no direct sun
- otherwise heats up too much
- air regularly
Tip: Even if the purchase is a little more expensive, the seed tray is particularly suitable for propagating roses. Because a slider is usually installed in the lid, with which the humidity inside can be regulated and thus a good climate for growth is created.
5. seperate
When the rose cuttings and sticks have formed roots, then separate them:
- Rooting takes approx. eight weeks
- a new shoot has developed from the leaf axis or eye
- carefully remove the small roses
- put in individual pots with rose soil
- alternatively also directly into the bed
- must continue to be protected from the sun
- therefore provide shade in a sunny bed
- Pots in a bright place without direct sunlight
Cuttings in the garden bed
Alternatively, the cut shoots can also be placed immediately in the garden bed. For this purpose, a shady and slightly sheltered Location to get voted:
- loose and humus-rich soil is ideal
- plug in directly
- Poke holes with a hand shovel
- Dip lower part in rooting powder
- Water the cutting bed well
- cover with foil tunnels
- Keep roses evenly moist
- budding does not begin here until next spring
In autumn, enough roots were formed to move the roses to the desired location in the garden.
Tip: The sticks in particular are well suited for being placed directly in a bed.
frequently asked Questions
If you have different varieties of roses in your garden and multiply several of them with cuttings then there is a simple tip to take good care of the cuttings that have neither leaves nor flowers recognize. Write small labels with the variety and hang them on a small stick that you put in the pot next to the cutting. Alternatively, you can label small stones or other things with the name of the rose species.
Ground cover roses, wild roses and dwarf roses are very suitable for the propagation of cuttings. Climbing roses, dwarf roses and large shrub roses can also be propagated well with sticks.
The cuttings are semi-lignified shoots that still have at least one leaf. These are cut during the growing season. The sticks are completely woody shoots without leaves. These are taken from the plant during the dormant period in late winter.
If the shoots are removed in summer, then you should use this year's shoots. The best material for propagation is in the middle of a shoot. You should always remove the tip of the branch because it is too soft and could rot.