As the gardening season draws to a close, the list of plants to plant gets shorter. From September, however, the planting season for overwintering cultures or perennial plants. 25 planting ideas for September, read here.
In a nutshell
- Less pest infestation when sowing/planting from autumn
- Multiple harvests possible with fast-growing vegetables
- ideal planting time for fruit trees such as apples and shrubs such as currants
- Only plant frost-resistant perennial herbs from September
Table of contents
- Vegetables from B – G
- K – P
- R – S
- fruit trees
- fruit bushes
- Perennial herbs
- frequently asked Questions
Vegetables from B – G
Various types of vegetables, including cabbage or various types of lettuce, are ideal as planting ideas for September. A selection and useful information on the respective types of vegetables can be found here.
cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
Many cabbages are particularly susceptible to pests in summer. Therefore, there are more and more cultivated forms that grow quickly and are even suitable for harvesting in winter or early spring. are suitable for overwintering.
- Germination temperature: 15 to 16ºC
- culture form: preculture and singulate
- Sowing/planting depth: 2mm
- harvest time: depending on the variety after approx. 70 – 85 days, usually in the following spring if planted in autumn
garden cress (Lepidium sativum)
Due to the short cultivation period, garden cress can be sown almost all year round. It is important that you use weed-free soil for sowing so that you can harvest the cress without any problems.
- Germination temperature: 15 to 20°C
- culture form: no-till
- Sowing/planting depth: press flat
- harvest time: three to six days
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica)
Kale is one of the most popular winter vegetables. It is perfectly frost resistant, but you should protect it from hungry wildlife like rabbits in winter.
- Germination temperature: 2 to 20°C
- culture form: Preculture (from June) and solitary, from September only larger plants can be planted
- Sowing/planting depth: 1-2 cm
- harvest time: first leaves after three to four months, depending on the variety, full yield after seven months
K – P
carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativa)
Similar to cabbage, carrots tend to be cultivated over the winter so that they are not attacked by pests as badly. For the overwintering culture, you should choose a variety that is frost-resistant and can be stored for a long time.
- Germination temperature: 10 to 25°C
- culture form: no-till
- Sowing/planting depth: 1-2 cm
- harvest time: after 60 – 90 days, depending on the variety
chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris)
The colorful chard is an eye-catcher in autumn, when everything has slowly been harvested. However, you should plant it in a protected manner, for example under a small polytunnel, because rain and snow or Frost and thaw can cause problems for plants.
- Germination temperature: 18 to 20°C
- culture form: Direct sowing, pre-cultivation and singling possible and usually results in larger plants
- Sowing/planting depth: 0.5 cm
- harvest time: can be harvested as baby leaf, larger leaves after 60-80 days
Pak choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis)
The Asian winter vegetables is becoming increasingly popular in the kitchen and can be used in a similar way to Chinese cabbage. Compared to Chinese cabbage, the cultivation period is shorter and it can also be planted later in the year.
- Germination temperature: 12 to 22°C
- culture form: Pre-cultivation and isolation usually results in more beautiful plants, direct sowing possible
- Sowing/planting depth: 2 cm
- harvest time: after six to eight weeks after planting, overwintering in the greenhouse possible
A notice: A variant of the pak choi is the tatsoi. It is to be treated in the same way in cultivation, but it does not grow upright, but forms flat basal rosettes.
R – S
radish (Raphanus sativus)
In the case of radishes, it is better if you abandon the culture in the summer. During the warmer seasons, they are more at risk of being attacked by pests such as flea beetles.
- Germination temperature: 12 to 20°C
- culture form: no-till
- Sowing/planting depth: 0.5 to 1 cm
- harvest time: after three to four weeks
arugula (Eruca sativa)
The spicy rocket is ideal as an accompaniment to salads. You can harvest it again and again throughout the winter.
- Germination temperature: 15 to 20°C
- culture form: Direct sowing, pre-cultivation in quickpots possible
- Sowing/planting depth: 1-2 cm
- harvest time: after seven weeks
cut lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. crispa)
Compared to lettuce, cut lettuce has a significantly shorter cultivation period and can be harvested in the same year. They are ideal if you only ever need small amounts of lettuce.
- Germination temperature: 10 to 15 C°
- culture form: Direct sowing, preculture and isolated possible
- Sowing/planting depth: 0.5 cm
- harvest time: after four to six weeks
spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Spinach is also a culture that likes it cooler. Temperatures that are too warm in summer can cause it to heal faster goes into bloom.
- Germination temperature: 12 to 22°C
- culture form: Direct sowing, pre-cultivation in quickpots possible
- Sowing/planting depth: 2 cm
- harvest time: depending on the weather in winter or at the latest in spring
turnip (Brassica napus Napobrassica Group)
The turnip is a vegetable that is experiencing a renaissance. The former food of poor people is now used in a variety of culinary ways.
- Germination temperature: 9 to 22°C
- culture form: Direct sowing, preculture and isolated possible
- Sowing/planting depth: 2 cm
- harvest time: when the beets have reached a diameter of 10 – 15 cm
fruit trees
You should preferably plant fruit trees in the fall. You should secure young trees against wild animals with bite protection.
Selection of fruit trees:
- apple (penalty)
- Cherry (Prunus avium)
- Plum (Prunus domestica)
A notice: It is best to plant sensitive fruit trees in spring. These include, for example: kiwi, peach orapricots.
fruit bushes
In particular, you should plant bare-root fruit bushes in early autumn so that they can still form enough roots for overwintering.
Planting ideas for fruit bushes in September:
- Currants (Ribes rubrum)
- raspberries (Rubus idaeus)
- Blackberries (Rubus sect. rubus)
- Gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa)
- blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)
- Chokeberry (Aronia)
Perennial herbs
In theory, you can plant perennial herbs from spring. Anyone who discovers perennial herbs in the sale in autumn, for example, can still plant them in the bed from September.
Selection of herbs:
- lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)
- Mints (Mentha)
- Southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum)
- Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus)
- Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
A notice: In autumn, only plant herbs that will survive the frost without any problems. plants like lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), holy herb (Santolina) or curry herb (Helichrysum italicum) are often also designated as perennials, but usually only older plants survive the winter.
frequently asked Questions
Similar to fruit, vegetables and herbs, you can also plant perennial ornamental trees as a planting idea in September. A good planting idea for September is to planting a hedge in the garden. For flowers, bedding plants like pansies (viola) are good to plant in the fall so they bloom in the spring. By the end of September at the latest, onion flowers should like daffodils (Narcissus) or tulips (Tulipa) are brought into the earth.
How to prepare depends on the culture. If the crop is harvested this season, basic fertilization is carried out with nitrogen like manure. If it is an overwintering culture or perennial plants, there is no need for basic fertilization, as this would encourage the formation of shoots that are not particularly frost-resistant. Only two to three weeks after planting, some potash is sprinkled on, which helps the plants to form a robust outer skin so that they can survive the winter well.
Winter onion and garlic sets should only be planted when the temperatures are significantly cooler. If it is still very warm in September, there is a risk that the cuttings will have been expelled too far and will be damaged by snow and frost in winter. It is therefore more advisable if onion and garlic sets are not planted for the winter until October.