Freshen up wooden table: sand down and oil

Instead of throwing a worn-out wooden table in the trash, you can instead refurbish it with little manual skill (and little money). Properly sanding and oiling solid wood is a lot of work, but you can be proud of the end result - a freshly polished one After all, the dining table is the social center of many apartments. The following detailed instructions will make your work easier.

materials and tools

Which materials and tools you need depends primarily on whether you want to sand down the wooden table by hand or with a machine and which oil you use specifically. That's why we've put together a general list of materials here, which you can add to as you wish. You can find out which surface treatment options you have for a wooden table and what the respective advantages and disadvantages are under the individual key points in the article.

General material list:

• Sandpaper of different grits: 80, 120, 180, 240, 320
• a sanding block made of cork or plastic
• possibly steel wool
• If necessary, a grinding machine (orbital sander or eccentric sander)
• Dust mask / face mask and safety goggles
• Wood oil (or other surface treatment agent)
• If necessary, paint stripper (liquid or as a paste)
• if necessary, wood paste for filling (available in different colors)
• alternatively, hard wax sticks in a suitable shade also work (soldering iron required!)
• soft brushes, sponges and old, clean cloths (everything without metal if possible!)
• Soft microfiber cloths are very suitable
• no hard-sided washing-up sponges
• if necessary, a scraper or spatula

Estimated costs

Of course, you can also have the old wooden table restored by a professional, such as a furniture maker or carpenter. However, this is quite expensive and costs several hundred euros, depending on the size and form of the refurbishment. Hourly wages of around 35 or more euros are usual, to which the material costs must also be added. However, if you do the work yourself, you have to reckon with up to 100 euros for materials and tools in the maximum case (e.g. because a grinding machine has to be borrowed).

The right place of work

However, you should never restore the table inside the apartment. If possible, you should look for a free, wind-protected place in the fresh air or in a semi-open garage or garage. workshop work. The reason lies not only in the dirt development - sanding down a wooden table produces a lot of dirt that you certainly don't want to have in the apartment - but also in the wood stains, some of which emit toxic gases justified. In addition, oil-soaked rags are a potential fire source that is not to be taken lightly.

Be sure to observe safety precautions

That’s why you should definitely pay extra attention to those oily rags. Linseed and turpentine oil in particular tend to self-ignite even at normal room temperature, which is why you never simply crumple up the fabrics after use and dispose of them in the household waste should. To reduce the risk of fire, it is best to do the following:

• Rinse the oily rags well under running water.
• Spread them out to dry.
• Do not pack them in the direct sun.
• Alternatively, you can also keep them lying in the water.

You should also wear a mouthguard / a Wear a dust mask, so as not to inhale the dust generated by the grinding. The protection also reduces the absorption of toxic gases. For the same reason, wearing safety goggles is highly recommended.

Sand the wooden table by hand

In particular, wooden tables decorated with carvings should be sanded down carefully by hand, since sanding machines would destroy the valuable decorations here. However, sandpaper is also not very suitable here: It is therefore better to use steel wool for rough sanding work to work on the narrow corners and edges. On the other hand, if you want it to be finer, you can also fold up sandpaper of the appropriate grain size or cut it into small pieces and place it on an old toothbrush or similar, for example. ä. stick on.

The right sandpaper

In general, the success of the project depends largely on the choice of the right sandpaper. Basically, you need different grain sizes for sanding and smoothing a wooden table, starting with the coarse ones and choosing finer and finer grades in further work steps. 320 grit paper works well for a glossy finish, anything else is too fine. Which grain you start with - whether 80, 100 or even 120 - depends on the type of wood and the table surface. Basically, you should choose coarser sandpaper for tables made of hardwood and finer sandpaper for furniture made of softwood. Even if the table already feels quite smooth, you can do without 80 or 100 grit.

It all depends on the abrasive

But not only the grit, but also the abrasive itself that sticks to the sandpaper is decisive for the overall result. Choose sandpaper that is as hard as possible, with a grain size that can withstand a finger test. If, on the other hand, it detaches easily, the goods are of inferior quality. Sandpaper or emery paper coated with quartz or flint, while cheap, wears out very quickly and is best used on soft woods. On the other hand, papers with a coating of silicon carbide or corundum are more useful for processing wood.

Instructions – step by step

Careful sanding of the wooden table is the most important step, without which the wood cannot absorb the nourishing oil. It's not just about roughening the material so that it can then absorb the applied wood oil and thus close the pores. Older coatings must also be removed thoroughly, otherwise the result will not be very satisfactory. The problem that remains is that liquid coatings penetrating into the tissue can only be applied to wood difficult to remove - once the table has been oiled, this measure can hardly be reversed. The situation is different with paintwork or veneers. Furthermore, the sanding serves to remove bumps and create a smooth surface.

And this is how it is sanded:

• select suitable sandpaper with the coarsest grain
• attach this to a sanding block
• Sand down the table evenly with long strokes
• always work in the direction of the wood grain
• otherwise there will be unsightly scratches
• vacuum or wipe the dust again and again in between
• regularly knock off the sanding block
• If necessary, fill dents and deep scratches with wood paste or wax
• then let it dry and treat it further
• now moisten the wood before each new sanding step
• wipe the table thoroughly with a damp cloth
• Let it dry and continue working with the next finer sandpaper
• remove dust from time to time
• after the last sanding, the table is no longer moistened
• instead, clean it with a soft and dry cloth
• a soft brush or a vacuum cleaner are also suitable

Grinding machines make work easier

Larger table surfaces can be processed faster and more evenly with an orbital sander or eccentric sander. However, you need a certain amount of experience, especially for the eccentric sander, so that the result is convincing. Less experienced do-it-yourselfers are therefore better off using an orbital sander, which is slower and therefore easier to handle. You can rent both machines by the day for a small fee in any hardware store or do-it-yourself store and therefore do not have to buy them.

Remove old veneer

If a lacquered or veneered wooden table is to be refreshed, sanding it down is often not enough. The first step here is to remove the veneer or paint with a paint stripper before you can then sand and oil. Apply the liquid stripper thickly with a brush (careful! For reasons of a possible chemical reaction, this must not contain any metal.) on the table surface. You should definitely wear protective gloves to prevent skin irritation. Leave the stain on for a few minutes - once the surface begins to curl and severe If the surface becomes wrinkled, the agent and the dissolved coating can be removed with a flat spatula become. Then apply a second coat of stain to loosen any residue as well. Now you can sand the table.

Oiling a wooden table – Here’s how

When all the sanding work is done, the table is treated with wood oil (or another material like wax or varnish). This step is necessary to protect the wood from signs of use and, if necessary, the effects of the weather. Natural agents such as oil or wax are particularly suitable here, as they do not completely seal the wood. Instead, it remains breathable, which in turn benefits the indoor climate. Wood oil and wax are also the right choice for a natural look.

Suitable oils for woodworking

Those who value naturalness therefore also use ecologically sensible oils. Many common oils in the kitchen and household are suitable for this, such as olive oil, rapeseed and sunflower oil as well as walnut and linseed oil. These variants do not contain any chemical additives, but have one disadvantage: they dry very slowly. If the wooden table is rubbed with linseed oil, for example, you have to plan about a week in warm weather for it to dry. Commercially available wood oils are significantly faster in this regard.

Apply wood oil correctly

When oiling the wooden table, it is best to proceed as follows:

• Apply wood oil evenly to the wood surface with a soft brush
• Always brush on the oil, never just pour it out
• only ever treat horizontal surfaces so that the oil does not run off
• apply oil until nothing disappears into the wood
• instead, there should be an actual movie on the table
• let the oil soak in for about half an hour
• then wipe off any remaining oil with a soft cloth
• always work in the direction of the wood fibers
• if this step is omitted, the surface will later become sticky
• Let the table dry at least overnight
• don't put anything on it - there are pressure points
• Sand the table lightly the next day with fine sandpaper (at least 240 grit).
• carefully remove dust
• then oil it again and let it dry as described
• Carry out the process a third time if necessary

You should then let the oiled table dry in a warm place for a few days to a week, depending on the oil used.

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