Room cyclamen, Cyclamen persicum - care from A-Z

The room-Cyclamen is one of the most popular and most widespread potted flowers in Germany. When nature loses its color in autumn, it ensures a good mood during the gray season with brightly shining flowers until spring.

However, when it comes to care, the Cyclamen persicum is a plant in which a few details should be observed. With the help of professional care instructions, plant lovers of indoor cyclamen will be rewarded with abundant flowers and a long, healthy life.

Characteristics

• Botanical name: Cyclamen persicum
• Plant family: Primrose family (Primulaceae).
• Plant genus: cyclamen.
• Common name: Persian cyclamen
• Origin: Eastern Mediterranean
• Growth height: up to about 30 centimeters
• Flowering period: September to March
• Flowers: white, pale pink, red and reddish purple
• Location: partially shaded, cool
• Limescale tolerance: soil yes, irrigation water no
• Toxicity: mediocre for humans and Pets

Location

Contrary to many opinions, the cyclamen does not come from the Alpine regions and is therefore not armed against icy temperatures. But neither does the Mediterranean plant like it hot or too sunny. Here it is important to offer an optimal location that is between the two extremes as follows:

• Optimal ambient temperature: between 12 degrees Celsius and 16 degrees Celsius
• Under no circumstances place in an air temperature of over 20 degrees Celsius or below ten degrees Celsius
• Lighting conditions: bright, partially shaded
• Sunlight: no direct sunlight
• Avoid cold drafts
• Ideal locations: west and east, unheated / little heated rooms such as stairwells or bedrooms
• In the garden bed: do not plant in the immediate vicinity of damp soils such as those found on ponds

Soil condition

In order for the Persian cyclamen to thrive, it makes certain demands on the soil in the garden bed and on the substrate when cultivating in pots.

The floor should meet the following conditions:

• Humus, rich in nutrients
• Even moisture content without waterlogging
• Good water permeability
• Calcareous
• Gladly with a small amount of clay or sand
• PH value: up to a maximum of 7.0
• Substrate

Especially as a potted plant, the cyclamen persicum reacts with growth disorders and, in the worst case, withering if poor quality potting soil is used. For this reason, a high-quality substrate should be used that has the same properties as the ideal garden soil. An important aspect of cultivation is water permeability in order to avoid waterlogging. Perlite in the substrate also improves this.

Planting time

As a houseplant

Theoretically, the indoor cyclamen can be potted all year round. However, it is ideal to limit yourself to the time before flowering or after the fresh new shoots.

Each planting is a burden for the houseplant and can influence the growth of the flowers in particular. For this reason, there should be at least two to three weeks in between potting before flowering so that the Cyclamen persicum is given sufficient time to relax and get used to the new environment before bud formation begins. The best time for stewing is therefore in late summer to early autumn.

In the garden bed

In summer, this species of cyclamen enjoys spending time outdoors. The best time to plant is when the outside temperature is constant at least ten degrees Celsius. As a rule, this is the case in May from the Ice Saints onwards.

Repotting time

Most varieties should be repotted every one to two years. As with the best time to plant, this should be done between August and September when budding has started but there is still enough time for flowering.

plants

Instructions for planting beds

• To prepare, hook through the floor and cover a large area of weed remove
• Dig the soil
• Distance between plants and neighbors: half as large as the diameter of the cyclamen
• Plant hole size: two to three times as wide and deep as the tuber root or onion
• Lay out drainage on the floor with two centimeters of gravel or quartz sand
• If necessary, mix excavated earth with compost for more nutrients
• Fill the hole in the ground so high that the bulb / onion is then half covered with soil
• Then press the earth firmly into place
• In the case of existing tuber roots, be careful when handling them so that they are not damaged
• Finally pour on generously

Tip: Instead of compost, the soil can be mixed with high-quality substrate. This ensures more optimal growth conditions, especially in poor soil conditions.

Instructions for pot planting

Care should be taken to ensure that the plant pot has a drainage hole so that excess water can drain away. A saucer is particularly useful if you do not use a cachepot that is closed at the bottom. The excess water can collect on the saucer and unsightly water stains on the surface can be prevented. In addition, a saucer has advantages when pouring.

Leave a gap of at least two centimeters between the top layer of soil and the edge of the pot. This prevents overflow when irrigation water raises the surface of the earth or silt builds up.

Repot

Instructions for repotting

When repotting, a few rules should be followed in the procedure:

• Carefully remove the plant from the pot (to do this, gently massage the plastic pots, lightly knock on the clay pots)
• Proceed slowly and carefully so as not to damage the fine roots
• Remove the old substrate as far as possible from the roots
• Remove dead root parts
• Cover the bottom of the pot two centimeters with fine gravel or quartz sand (drainage)
• Plant only half of the tubers in a pot with a bottom hole in fresh substrate and press firmly
• Place the pot on a saucer filled with water
• Let it stay there for 30 minutes
• Then place in a planter and place in a suitable location

Tip: If you hold the root area under a jet of water after loosening it from the old pot, you can remove the old soil from the roots more easily.

to water

A room cyclamen should not just be poured on. This is due to the sensitivity of the tuber, which tends to rot extremely quickly.

For this reason, it is advisable to water indoor cyclamen in pots from below. To do this, simply put water on a saucer or a similar waterproof saucer. Let the plant stand in it for around 30 minutes. During this time, the water is absorbed by the earth and the roots are supplied with water accordingly. If all of the water has been absorbed prematurely, pour in more.

Intelligent irrigation system for bedding plants

There is a simple trick for bedding plants to avoid watering the tuber. Simply cut a slim plastic beverage bottle to the appropriate height and insert it with the bottle neck first, as far as possible into the ground. This is where you will pour the irrigation water in the future. The tuber stays dry.

The bottle should be quite close to the tuber, but far enough away so as not to damage the roots when inserting it. It is best if this simple irrigation system is also taken care of when planting the Persian cyclamen.

spray

The Cyclamen persicum likes high humidity, but spraying should be avoided. This is due to unsightly water spots, which rob the flowers and leaves of their beauty. If calcareous water is then used for spraying, a dull shimmer will mainly affect the flowers and ruin the splendid color brilliance of the primrose plant.

Air humidifiers, on the other hand, are much more suitable. These are also available for little money. Those who rely on home remedies simply put a water-filled bowl in the immediate vicinity of room cyclamen. Especially when dry heating air is on the Houseplants humidification is an absolute must for it to thrive.

Fertilize

• In the vegetation phases from October to April, apply a conventional liquid fertilizer every two weeks
• Bedding plants should be fertilized with compost or other nutrient fertilizers every four to six weeks
• Last fertilization of bed cyclamen about eight weeks before moving to the house to "overwinter"
• After the flowering period, a fertilization break of two months should be observed
• Always combine fertilizing with watering so that the fertilizer reaches the last root area

Cut

Wilted flowers and dried up leaves should be removed from indoor cyclamen as they are the Unnecessarily deprive the plant of too many nutrients that are subsequently lacking for healthy, vigorous growth.

They can be cut off, but what is known as “cleaning out” is more suitable. This means a sudden detachment of affected parts of the plant. This way, no stubs are left that are prone to rot, as is the case with pruning. However, if cutting is preferred, the cut should always be made as deep as possible so that as few residues as possible remain.

Tip: Cleaning stems is very easy if you take them between your index finger and thumb and then turn them a little before pulling them off with a jerk. It is essential to work with gloves, as all parts of the plant are poisonous and can lead to slight to moderate symptoms of poisoning.

Overwinter

Hibernation does not take place with a Cyclamen persicum. It has its growing season in the winter season, while it enters the actual resting phase from spring to late summer / beginning of autumn.

As a houseplant from the Mediterranean region, it does not tolerate winter cold. If the night temperatures drop below ten degrees Celsius, they should be moved from the garden bed to a warmer place. This is usually the case from mid / late September. The sooner it gets into the warmth, the sooner it begins to grow and flower. It can handle sudden temperature fluctuations of around five degrees Celsius. Make sure you have a bright location away from direct sunlight.

For other types of cyclamen, for example, the Ordella is considered winter-proof and can, under certain conditions, hibernate outside.

Since Persian indoor cyclamen grow in winter, the soil / substrate must be kept appropriately moist. It is essential to prevent it from drying out. However, since they should not be too warm (maximum 20 degrees Celsius), no high water evaporation is to be expected, so that occasional watering during the winter months is sufficient.

Multiply

Two different methods are suitable for propagating the Cyclamen persicum. The prerequisite for this is that the mother plant is not an F1 hybrid variety. These are special breeds that are not suitable for reproduction.

sowing

• Remove ripe seeds from the flowers at the end of the flowering period
• The seeds can be stored in a dark, dry and cool place below 15 degrees Celsius until late summer
• Rapid use of the seeds increases the germination capacity
• For sowing, press seeds lightly into nutrient-poor substrate or potting soil
• Cover approximately two to three centimeters of substrate / potting soil (dark germinator)
• Moisten the soil well
• Stretch dark plastic foil over the planter (a light / clear foil can be used in a dark location)
• Open the foil regularly to ventilate and keep the soil constantly evenly moist
• Germination temperature: between 18 degrees Celsius and 20 degrees Celsius
• Germination time: between 20 and 30 days
• Remove foil and prick out: as soon as the first leaves show after the cotyledons
• Select a lighter location if a darker location was selected beforehand
• Flower formation: after about a year

division

If the tuber root dries up after flowering, the best time has come to multiply by dividing the mother plant as described below:

• Divide the mother plant into sub-areas, each with at least one bud
• Cut the tuber at the appropriate point with a sharp knife
• Seal the cuts on all sections with carbon powder or special resin from specialist dealers
• Pot divided tubers into a plant pot (as described in the "Repotting Instructions" section)
• The first fertilization takes place only after the first expulsions have formed

Diseases

In terms of diseases, the indoor cyclamen is quite robust and resilient. Only blight and yellow leaves occur occasionally. These are usually caused by incorrect or too well-intentioned care. Growth disorders are also often due to it.

If you notice such symptoms, use these care instructions and the practical tips to check where and how you can improve the conditions for the cyclamen persicum. With an early reaction, however, the primrose usually recovers quickly.

Pests

Spider mites

If the indoor cyclamen is too dry and in a warm environment, spider mites can settle on it. The small ones between 0.25 millimeters and 0.8 millimeters Pests are difficult to see. Above all, white web formations quickly become apparent, which are located on the leaves and can spread to the stems. To successfully combat spider mite infestation, it is best to proceed as follows:

• First give the affected plant a vigorous shower
• Then place in a plastic bag and seal the bag airtight
• Remove from the bag after three or four days and let dry
• When all the spider mites have died, the cyclamen can be placed in a more humid location
• However, if surviving spider mites are discovered or suspected, repeat the process

Cyclamen mites

If the indoor cyclamen is too damp, cyclamen mites are a typical pest infestation. Just like spider mites, they are usually invisible to the naked eye due to their small size. However, they can be clearly identified on the basis of the damage. These include stunted shoot tips and deformed leaves as well as increasingly restricted growth. Rapid action is now required to combat it. You can choose from:

• Immediate changeover to a significantly drier environment (only in the early stages, chance of successful control)
• Neem oil products to clog the parasites' airways, causing them to suffocate
• Use predatory mites as natural predators (are available from specialist gardeners)