Table of contents
- Location
- plant substrate
- Plant
- watering & fertilizing
- Cut
- hibernate
- Diseases & Pests
The apricot tree has the botanical name Prunus armeniaca and originally comes from China, from where it has spread all over the world. The tree is relatively easy to care for, but only thrives with the right site conditions. Due to the cooler temperatures in the home gardens, a south-facing location with many hours of sunshine is particularly suitable. The sensitive apricot tree needs extra protection in winter.
Location
The apricot tree has its origins in warm countries, which is why the tree does not tolerate the local, often cold temperatures particularly well. The plant is also known as the apricot tree and is mainly cultivated in the warm regions of the Mediterranean. Therefore, the plant is dependent on the right choice of location and also needs additional protective measures. Cultivation is also possible in areas further north, for example in a sheltered valley with a mild climate. The warmer the location, the richer the harvest of the sweet fruits. The plant is very sensitive to late frosts because it sprout early with the first strong rays of the sun in spring. During this time, the apricot tree should therefore receive sun protection to delay budding and flowering.
- Prefers warm locations with many hours of sunshine
- A south-facing slope protected from bad weather is ideal
- Thrives particularly well in the local wine-growing regions
- Does not tolerate sustained drafts
- Distance to the house should be at least 4-6 m
- In cooler and mountainous areas it is better to cultivate in a bucket
- Also suitable as trellis fruit on the southern wall of the house
plant substrate
In addition to the location, the plant substrate also plays an important role in ensuring that the apricot tree produces a good harvest. If the soil is extremely loamy and clayey, then this accumulates the rainwater and irrigation water and thus damages the sensitive tree. In addition, a sufficient supply of oxygen to the roots is important so that the wood can develop well on the surface. Constantly wet loam crushes the sensitive roots in the long run. Therefore, drainage should be created to make the soil more permeable to water.
- Light soils with sandy portions are ideal
- Soil pH should be neutral, around 7
- Ensure good permeability
- Loosen loamy soil regularly
- Create drainage below the root ball
- Working in coarse gravel or crushed stone is ideal
Plant
When planting the apricot tree, the specimen should not be more than a year old. Significantly older trees are difficult to transplant and tolerate this process very poorly. Ideally, the young plant is bought in a container so that the root system can develop sufficiently. These trees are much more robust and get used to their new location quickly and easily. In addition, they can be planted at almost any time of the year. On the other hand, bare-root apricot trees should only be exposed in the garden between October and April. In order to be able to count on a harvest at the end of summer, it is advisable to plant at the beginning of spring so that the tree has enough time to develop the flowers.
- Plant after the last heavy winter frost
- The best time is in spring, from March
- Thoroughly loosen the soil
- Remove old roots, larger stones and weeds
- Gently pull the root ball apart
- Place in a water bath to allow the roots to soak
- Lay drainage underneath the roots
- Dig a planting hole twice the size of the root ball
- Enrich the planting site to a third with compost
- Mix in the horn shavings
- Place the young plant upright in the middle
- When digging in, press down the potting soil well in between
- Leave the grafting spot about 5 cm above the ground
- Then water generously
watering & fertilizing
As a fruit tree, the Prunus armeniaca thrives in a dry and warm climate, which is interrupted by occasional downpours. The apricot tree does not tolerate prolonged moisture well and reacts to this with falling leaves and a failure to blossom and fruit. That is why watering and fertilizing in the local area is particularly important, as is protection from bad weather. It is also advisable to create a warming layer of mulch, this way the water balance can be better maintained in a healthy balance. Normally, the prevailing rainfall is completely sufficient, especially for older specimens with deep roots. If there is a longer dry phase in the hot summer months, young plants in particular are dependent on additional watering.
- Keep plant substrate only moderately moist
- Water only in case of prolonged drought
- Water more frequently during hot summer periods
- Only water when the surface of the soil has dried
- Does not tolerate lime well, neither in the ground nor in irrigation water
- Collected rainwater is ideal
- Descale tap water before watering
- Fertilize every 4 weeks from March to July
- Organic fertilizers are ideal
- Blue grain can be administered in spring
- Lay out a mulch layer made of bark mulch, leaves or lawn clippings
Tip:
If the apricot tree is cultivated in a bucket, then the water requirement is generally greater and the plant urgently needs additional watering.
Cut
Just like other fruit trees, the apricot tree needs pruning. This is the only way to guarantee that the leaves, flowers and fruits receive sufficient sun rays and that air circulation is not blocked. Heavy pruning is not necessary, rather the crown should be carefully thinned out so as not to weaken the plant too much. The best time to prune is right after harvest, this will give the tree enough time to recover before the first frosty nights. In this context it is also important to remove broken and injured branches. These are often caused by weather damage or are nibbled on by animals. Such injuries pose a risk of infection. Only high-quality cutting tools should be used for pruning, so as not to unnecessarily crush the branches.
- Remove shoots that compete with the leader in the first two years
- Remove all deadwood annually
- Cut off shoots that grow too much inwards
- Cut off vertically aligned branches, the so-called water shoots
- Always cut just above an outward facing eye
- Generally start the cut at a slight angle
- Use sharp and disinfected cutting tools
- Remove broom-shaped shoots at the base of the tree
- Treat larger cuts with tree resin as a precaution
hibernate
Although the apricot tree is extremely hardy, freezing temperatures are dangerous for the flowers. These often sprout very early at the end of winter or early spring and do not survive temperatures below freezing. Because of this, late frosts are a major threat to crops. Extremely cold temperatures during the winter months do not harm the apricot tree, but intense winter sun is harmful. The wood forms a shiny bark, which forms unsightly cracks when the sun is too strong in combination with sub-zero temperatures. Therefore, the trunk should receive a suitable protective measure in winter to prevent this blemish. If there is little snow or rain in the winter months, the plant needs additional watering.
- Withstands minus temperatures down to -30° C
- Shade at the beginning of spring so that the flowers do not wear out too early
- Cover branches with protective fleece during late frosts
- Lay out mulch foil, leaves or straw in the root area as heat protection
- Lean wooden slats against the trunk at an angle to prevent damage to bark
- Water occasionally during dry periods without snow and rain
- Container plants move to bright and frost-free winter quarters before the first frosts
- Water occasionally, but only when the top layer of soil is dry
- Check periodically for diseases and pests
Diseases & Pests
When the apricot tree's immune system is compromised, diseases and pests often set in. The cause can be long-lasting waterlogging, as well as a lack of protective measures in winter and early spring. The better the site conditions and the winter protection, the more resistant the plant. It is important to have regular checks, which should be done throughout the year.
- Eaten and holey leaves and fruits indicate frost moths
- Collect caterpillars of the butterfly by hand
- Preparations with Bacillus thuringiensis are helpful
- Discolored and blistered leaves are signs of leaf curl
- Fungus leads to the death of fruits and leaves
- Fight with a spray containing copper, starting in January
- In extreme cases, completely remove all affected branches, leaves and fruits
- Shotgun disease causes round leaf spots and holes
- Apply fungicides in wet weather conditions
- Use biologically harmless preparations
- These include copper, net sulfur, stulln and alumina
- Bacterial blight causes brown spots on the edge of leaves
- Prevent with regular whites
- Spray solutions containing copper early
garden editorial I write about everything that interests me in my garden.
Learn more about fruit types
Orange Tree: Care | 17 tips for an orange tree
Orange trees are conquering more and more terraces, balconies and conservatories. In Germany, they are usually kept in buckets due to the climatic conditions. The small trees are very floriferous and decorative. Under optimal conditions even fruit can be harvested.
Pineapple plant: how to grow a pineapple yourself - instructions
With the remains of a pineapple, the hobby gardener has valuable material to grow this delicious fruit himself. The so-called tuft of leaves is the starting material for this. In addition, the pineapple can also be grown with the help of seeds and Kindel.
Bayern-Kiwi Weiki® - planting instructions, care and propagation
Hardy mini kiwis are a hit in private fruit growing. The leading variety is the innovative Bayern-Kiwi Weiki®, which impresses with its gooseberry-sized fruits and majestic growth. This guide will familiarize you with all aspects of professional planting, expert care and successful propagation.
Plum varieties: 20 old and new plum varieties
Plums have been neglected by breeders for decades, so the selection of varieties was sparse. Today home gardeners can choose from a wide range of delicious plum varieties. Explore a selection of 20 old and new plum varieties for private cultivation here.
Dwarf fruit tree: growing dwarf fruit in the garden
Everything about the dwarf fruit tree is a few sizes smaller - only the fruit it bears is as big as its conventional brothers. It is therefore ideal for small gardens and for cultivation in tubs. Everything you need to know about growing and caring for dwarf fruit trees can be found here.
Pillar cherry - delicious varieties, plants & instructions for cutting
Hardly anything is more delightful than biting into ripe, juicy sweet cherries in early summer - which you have just picked fresh from the tree yourself. Fortunately, you no longer need a large garden to plant a richly bearing cherry tree. A columnar cherry fits even in the smallest garden - and even on the balcony.
