Nectarine tree from A-Z: planting, care and pruning

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garden editorial
11 minutes

Table of contents

  • The site
  • The substrate
  • The addition
  • The bare root nectarine tree
  • The nectarine tree in the container
  • The culture in the bucket
  • The care
  • fertilizing and watering
  • Cut
  • The different drives
  • hibernate
  • harvest and propagation
  • Conclusion

The juicy nectarines are related to the peaches, but their surface differs in particular. In contrast to their relatives, nectarines have a smooth skin, but they taste at least as good. However, their taste is even better when they are freshly picked (from a home-grown tree). Read here how to grow the exotic little plant!

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The site

In Europe, nectarines are mainly grown in Greece, France and Italy and therefore prefer a warm climate. In local regions, the trees thrive best in wine-growing areas, but with a little skill they can be grown anywhere - provided the optimal conditions are created for this. Since the nectarine trees are not particularly resistant, they have corresponding requirements, especially in terms of location:

  • sunny and warm place
  • outdoors preferably on the south side of the property
  • A south-facing house wall is also suitable
  • protected from rain and wind

The substrate

The plants can be cultivated both outdoors and in containers. The soil should be as low in lime as possible, because a high proportion of lime in the soil can lead to chlorosis, which causes the leaves of the nectarine tree to turn yellow. Likewise, if possible, they should not be planted in heavy, cold soil. Because the nectarine trees need the heat, which is why they prefer an easily heated substrate. The optimal soil for the relatives of peaches has the following characteristics:

  • nutritious
  • rich in humus
  • low in lime
  • Slightly acidic potting soil is recommended for the bucket

Tip:

Heavy soil in the garden can easily be prepared for nectarine cultivation. For this purpose, the soil is simply enriched and loosened with a mixture of sand and humus.

The addition

nectarine blossom

Nectarine trees are commercially available both as container trees and as bare-root trees. Anyone who decides to grow the exotic tree also has the choice of cultivating it in a bucket on the balcony or in their own garden. Depending on the form in which the plant is purchased and cultivated, the planting is different.

The bare root nectarine tree

A bare-root tree is so called because it is offered without the earth ball around the roots and these are therefore "bare". Although these are comparatively cheap to buy, the planting time is limited to spring and autumn. It is also important to act quickly with bare-root plants and to plant them immediately after purchase. First, the root system is freed from all kinks and fractures by cutting them out directly at the roots. The roots are then shortened to around 30 centimeters and the shoots by around a third. The plant is then placed in water for about an hour before being planted as follows:

  • dig a planting hole
  • this must be deeper than the roots are long (ideally 1.5 times deeper)
  • Plant the tree vertically
  • Shovel soil into the planting hole
  • the root neck should end at the same level with the soil surface
  • Tread the earth carefully
  • Create a watering edge and water abundantly
  • ideally, a thick layer of mulch is placed on the planting site

The nectarine tree in the container

The biggest advantage of container plants is the possibility to plant them all year round. In addition, unlike bare-root plants, they do not have to be cut back after planting. However, anyone who decides to purchase a nectarine tree in a container must also make special preparations before planting. For this purpose, three crosses are first scratched into the root ball, each of which should have a depth of around 0.5 centimetres. This stimulates the nectarine tree to form and spread its roots faster. The root balls are then immersed in water and remain in it until no more air bubbles are visible. The plants can then be planted in the garden as follows:

  • Dig a planting hole
  • this should be twice the size of the root ball
  • Fill the planting hole about 30 percent with garden compost
  • plant the tree as straight as possible
  • use a support pole if necessary
  • fill the planting hole with a mixture of soil and compost
  • however, the root ball should be covered with soil by a maximum of 1 cm
  • Tread the earth carefully
  • Form the pouring edge, which falls towards the middle
  • finally connect the tree trunk and the support pole with a band
  • and put a thick layer of mulch on the planting site

The culture in the bucket

nectarines

The nectarine trees can be cultivated in pots without any problems, but this form of cultivation is only recommended for the dwarf varieties. Because the "normal" nectarine trees can reach an impressive height of up to eight meters. Dwarf nectarines, on the other hand, usually reach a height of about one meter and are therefore more suitable for cultivation on the balcony. The right vessels, which should have a capacity of around 30 to 40 liters, are essential for culture in the bucket. In addition, these should be equipped with a drainage hole, because the nectarines do not tolerate waterlogging at all. If the nectarine trees are cultivated in buckets, it is best to proceed as follows:

  • first place drainage over the drain hole
  • Gravel, perlite and potsherds are suitable for this
  • then cover the drainage with a permeable garden fleece
  • and cover with substrate
  • a mixture of garden soil, compost and horn shavings is ideal
  • put the tree in the middle
  • fill the bucket with soil
  • up to a few centimeters below the edge of the bucket
  • use a support pole if necessary
  • water abundantly

Tip:

In order to avoid waterlogging, coasters should be avoided if possible.

The care

The maintenance effort of nectarine trees is comparatively low because they are relatively undemanding. In the field, the plants are often visited and nibbled by hares and rabbits, which is why the trees should be checked regularly for signs of eating. However, the damage caused by feeding is not a problem because it can be smoothed out with a knife without any problems. The actual care required is the same for both outdoor nectarines and plants cultivated in pots and is as follows:

fertilizing and watering

The easy-care plants are fertilized about two to three times a year with a complete fertilizer, with spring and summer being best suited for this. Young nectarine trees in particular are watered, because they should be watered regularly, especially in the first year after planting. From the second year, however, it is sufficient if the trees are only watered when it is dry. Since the plants do not tolerate lime, they should preferably be supplied with stagnant rainwater. It is also advisable to mulch the nectarine trees. This not only keeps the root area warm, but also moist.

Cut

In the first two years after planting, the nectarine trees are generally not pruned, so that they can grow unhindered. The first cut usually takes place in the third year and should then be done once a year. This primarily serves to maintain the vitality of the tree, whereby it can be brought into the desired shape with the cut at the same time. Ideally, nectarine trees should be pruned shortly before flowering in April or early May, but they can also be pruned in late summer. The best way to cut the nectarine trees is as follows:

  • first remove old and dead wood
  • Cut off inward growing branches
  • cutting water shoots
  • these are branches that grow steeply upwards
  • usually about a third of the shoots are cut off
  • never cut below the bud

Tip:

In order to make the cut as gentle as possible for the tree, it is advisable to cut off the shoots at an angle. As a result, the cuts not only heal faster, but also better. In addition, the branches should always be cut off and not crushed with the cutting tool.

The different drives

Nectarine sliced ​​with stone

The nectarine tree produces its fruit on the shoots of the previous year and should therefore not be cut. For this it is essential that the hobby gardener can distinguish the fruit-bearing shoots from the others. First there are the wood shoots, which only have pointed leaf buds. There are also "false" fruit shoots, which can be recognized by their single, rounded flower bud. The false fruit shoots produce fruit, but the tree sheds them early because it cannot provide them with sufficient food. However, the most important shoots are the "true" fruit shoots, since these - again, the name already suggests - bear the tasty fruits. These are relatively easy to recognize because, unlike the false fruit shoots, they not only have a flower bud, but so-called "bud triplets". Because next to the rounded flower bud there is a leaf bud on the left and right. Differentiating between the different shoots is important for the cut because they are processed differently:

  • remove false fruit shoots
  • these are cut to astring or cones
  • shorten true fruit shoots
  • because at the end of the shoot there are only simple flower buds
  • well developed true fruit shoots cut back to 8 bud triplets
  • Cut back weakly developed shoots to 3 to 4 bud triplets

hibernate

The warmth-loving nectarines can easily be overwintered, provided they are protected accordingly. For outdoor plants, it is advisable to cover the root system with brushwood, leaves and straw. Young trees in particular need additional protection, which is why it is advisable to wrap their trunk with fleece or jute. A cool, bright winter quarters is ideal for nectarine trees cultivated in tubs. However, they should not be brought indoors as the heat could harm them in winter. It is better to overwinter them in a conservatory, a garden shed or in a garage. As far as care is concerned, nectarine trees are extremely undemanding in winter:

  • Water potted plants occasionally
  • a dry soil is better than a soil that is too wet
  • protect against drafts
  • if the location is too dark, provide artificial lighting

harvest and propagation

The sweet nectarines are usually harvested from August to September. You can tell whether the fruit is ripe by gently pressing it with your finger: ripe fruit is easy to indent. Nectarines taste best when they are freshly picked. But that's not the only reason why they should be eaten as soon as possible, because they can only be kept in the refrigerator for a few days. However, new nectarine trees can be grown from the seeds of the fruit. Patience is required for this, however, because first the kernels have to be dried for a few weeks (up to months!). Proceed as follows to grow new plants from the seeds:

  • Fill a 15 cm pot with potting soil
  • this should not be too wet
  • Put the core in and spread a thin layer of soil over it
  • keep the soil moist from now on
  • However, avoid waterlogging
  • cover the pot with foil
  • however, remove them regularly
  • the optimum germination temperature is 24 degrees
  • after a few weeks the germ forms
  • as soon as the seedling is 20 cm high, it is planted out

Tip:

Alternatively, the cores can also be placed in cotton wool instead of in the ground.

Conclusion

In local regions, the nectarine trees can easily be cultivated outdoors or in containers. They are ideal for beginners as the plants are considered relatively undemanding. Although the maintenance effort is comparatively low, they absolutely need a bright, warm location and an annual cut in order to be able to grow and thrive properly.

author garden editorial

I write about everything that interests me in my garden.

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