Intercept the embankment with formwork blocks

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Table of contents

  • Advantages of formwork blocks
  • Preparations on the slope
  • lay foundation
  • drying time of the concrete
  • Apply formwork blocks
  • use reinforcing bars
  • Design options with formwork blocks
  • Color design

Using formwork blocks to support an embankment or a slope is a long-term solution for stabilization. Our guide shows how to do this and what to look out for.

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Advantages of formwork blocks

Embankments are often visually appealing and can be wonderfully planted. However, there is a risk that they could be eroded by heavy rainfall or meltwater. In order to prevent this, an appropriate attachment must be made. Formwork blocks are ideal for this. The advantages of such a wall are:

  • plantable
  • due to reinforcement also suitable for very steep slopes
  • low cost
  • high stability
  • can be staggered
  • durable construction
  • variable visual and design options

A potential disadvantage, however, is that the effort involved in mooring is comparatively high, at least with regard to the foundation. However, once this is finished, the remaining work steps are simple and can be carried out without any problems and without any experience or great manual skills.

Preparations on the slope

In order to intercept the embankment, the appropriate preparation is required. The following items are required for this:

  • thread
  • measuring tool
  • mini excavator
  • vibrating plate
  • spade
  • rods

stake out dimensions

Depending on the size or width of the formwork blocks, the corresponding dimensions of the foundation must be staked out. This serves as a guide for digging the earth. It is recommended that the foundation is 40 centimeters wider than the dimensions of the stones.

Preparation: relax

dig foundation

The earth can now be removed with a mini excavator. The foundation should be at least 80 to 100 centimeters deep. In the case of particularly steep slopes with little planting, the wall can also be higher. In these cases, the foundation should be deeper.

Remove foreign bodies

Disturbing foreign bodies, such as larger stones and roots, should be removed from the pit. For roots, cutting or slicing is sufficient.

compact earth

When the preparatory steps are completed, it is necessary to compact the bottom and walls of the excavated pit. The best and easiest way to do this is with a vibrating plate. This results in stable surfaces that are ideally prepared for the following steps.

Tip:

The marked outlines can be cut off with a spade. This gives even clearer limits. The equipment required for excavating and compacting can be rented from hardware stores, among other places.

lay foundation

When the pit for the foundation has been dug and compacted, it can be filled. The following materials are required for this:

  • concrete
  • coarse gravel
  • vibrating plate
  • sand
  • grit

If these funds are ready, the filling of the excavated pit can begin. The following procedure is recommended here:

gravel

The coarse crushed stone is first put in as the base of the foundation. It should be placed about a quarter as high as the foundation is deep. One meter would be 25 centimetres. This first layer is then compacted and leveled with the vibrating plate.

grit

Finer grit serves as the second layer. This can also be a quarter of the total depth and is in turn compacted with the vibrating plate.

sand

The third and last loose layer consists of sand. This trickles when filling and compacting between the gravel and grit and makes the base firmer and more durable. Voids are filled and closed.

concrete

The end of the foundation is concrete. This is drawn flat after casting so that an even surface is created.

Tip:

The work should be carried out by at least two people and take place on a dry but not too warm day. Around 20 °C is ideal. In the event of rain or strong sunlight, the concrete should be covered with a tarpaulin that is not directly lying on it. This favors the drying process.

drying time of the concrete

When the concrete has completely dried, the formwork blocks can be placed. Depending on the dimensions, temperature and humidity, the process of complete drying can take a few days or several weeks. Relatively dry and warm weather is ideal, as the concrete layer does not dry too quickly and cracks do not form.

Dry season concrete foundation

However, this danger also exists when there is direct sunlight on the fresh concrete. A protective cover is therefore useful both in the rain and in summer. However, the tarpaulin should not lie directly on it, but have a distance of ten to twenty centimeters. A fixation on posts is well suited. In heavy rain, the water should be removed from it regularly to avoid tearing through.

Apply formwork blocks

After these preparations, aligning and attaching the formwork blocks themselves is relatively quick and easy. Only the following points need to be considered:

Relay a message

Irrespective of whether it is a straight or curved wall made of formwork blocks to secure the slope, the individual elements must be set up appropriately. Among other things, a mason's cord, which can be stretched as a guide, helps here.

Fix

When the first row is in place and properly aligned, the wall can be increased layer by layer to half a meter.

To fill

When this height is reached, the formwork blocks are filled with concrete. Due to the quantity and distribution, the concrete can dry and harden relatively quickly. In optimal weather conditions, three days to a week are sufficient for this. Again, it can make sense to use a tarpaulin as protection in very humid or extremely warm weather and in direct sunlight.

reach height

In order to complete the desired height of 100 to 120 centimetres, the remaining layers are applied and also filled with concrete.

cover

The coping stones are placed as the top layer. They form a secure closure and offer protection against the effects of the weather.

use reinforcing bars

Another variant of using formwork blocks is the additional use of reinforcing bars. These give the wall additional stability, but also increase the effort and costs.

shuttering blocks reinforcement bars

They are set into the foundation and used as a framework for the hollow stones. They can therefore be useful on very steep slopes, but they are not always necessary.

Tip:

Reinforcement should be used above all if the embankment is only covered with a few plants. Because then a landslide must be expected in heavy rain.

Design options with formwork blocks

A straight wall made of formwork blocks is comparatively quick and easy to build. However, this is by no means the only option that is possible. Among other things, the following are possible:

Gradually built walls

If several rows of different heights are built up with the formwork blocks, this results in interesting variations. If the first row is 40 to 60 centimeters high, it can serve as a bench, while the second and third rows are planted at 100 and 150 centimeters.

planters

Shuttering blocks with inserted planters can change the look significantly and make the wall more natural. They also offer other options for planting in the garden. Climbing plants or plants with hanging shoots are particularly suitable. It is also possible to have a herb garden or grow berry bushes.

Odd history

Formwork blocks have grooves and joints on the edges. Therefore, it is difficult to achieve an odd gradient. However, with small changes, a zigzag line can still be created, for example.

Color design

If you prefer a color change, you also have a choice. Below that are the following options:

  • exterior wall paint
  • paint
  • Mats in wood or stone look
  • plaster
  • disguises

It only has to be ensured that the materials are weatherproof and can adhere to the formwork blocks.

author Home editorial office

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