Table of contents
- Step-by-step instructions for correct repotting
- Correct transplanting goes like this
- Conclusion
In order to maintain vitality, cacti move to fresh substrate every few years. For the prickly succulents in the bed, moving to a new location is sometimes an option. Proportionally to the length of the thorns, the hobby gardener's respect for this measure increases. The following guide shows hands-on how to properly repot and transplant cacti. Get advice on useful tools, the ideal substrate, the perfect planter and more. Here are the 10 best tips for you.
Step-by-step instructions for correct repotting
Once all the preparations have been completed, the actual repotting process can be carried out quickly. In these steps it succeeds:
- Fill in the substrate halfway up the pot
- Make a hollow in it with your fist or a piece of wood
- Insert the potted cactus in the middle
- Surround with the remaining soil as high as the succulent was previously
Press the potting soil from the side with a stick or your fingers so that there are no cavities here that would hinder root growth. A thin layer of quartz gravel or expanded clay proves to be beneficial to prevent moss and algae.
Correct transplanting goes like this
Ideally, you should first prepare the soil in the new location so that it takes on the recommended structure. Then the digging fork loosens the surrounding soil on the cactus. In a diameter corresponding to the growth height of the succulent, separate the roots all around with the spade. To lift the mostly dry plant out of the ground, slide the spade under the root ball. The prickly fellow is transported to his new place with the help of the wheelbarrow. Here are the steps to follow:
- Shake off the old soil or dig it out of the ball with a root claw
- Dig a planting pit with twice the volume of the root ball
- Place the cactus in the middle and dig in just as deep as at the previous location
A mulch layer made of decorative gravel or chippings keeps the soil warm for longer and suppresses weeds.
Tip:
Only water cacti after a few days after repotting and transplanting
In order for the battered succulent to recover, it is poured for the first time after a week at the earliest. Potted cacti should spend this time in a semi-shady place. The specimens in the bed are shaded with an umbrella in sunny weather.
Tip:
Crush discarded clay pots and use them as drainage material
Protection against waterlogging in the form of drainage over the water outlet is not only useful for cacti. Before you dispose of an old clay bucket in the garbage, put it to good use in this way. Even if the jar is destroyed, cunning fungal spores, tiny insect eggs, or lurking viruses could still be hiding in the pores or soil crumbles. Careful hobby gardeners therefore carefully clean the pot again before it is broken.
Tip:
The best time for repotting and transplanting is from March to May
Every move to a new planter or to a different location puts a strain on cacti. Immediately after the hibernation, the stress level is at its lowest level. For the hardy succulents in the bed, an appointment is of course possible when the ground has completely thawed.
Tip:
A cactus is easier to pot with a thoroughly dried substrate
The largely dry substrate also speaks in favor of an appointment in spring. Roots that have been established for years will come loose from both the planter and the bed soil as if by themselves.
Tip:
Root claws, pricking sticks or chopsticks remove stuck potting soil
A cactus grows faster in fresh substrate the less the roots are obstructed by old potting soil. A root claw from the tool box for bonsai culture, a pricking stick or simply a Japanese chopstick serve as an aid here. Experienced hobby gardeners take a close look at the exposed root ball in order to cut out obviously diseased or rotten root strands with sharp, disinfected scissors.
Tip:
The ideal substrate consists of an organic-mineral mixture
A high-quality cactus soil offers the plant support, is easy to root through and airy. If watered after a longer hibernation, the substrate should hold water for some time without waterlogging. As a result, succulents rely on a mix that contains both organic and mineral components. The following combinations have proven themselves in practice:
- 60% commercially available cactus soil + 20% lava granules + 20% pumice beads
- 30% peat culture substrate + 30% mature compost + 20% pumice + 20% lava granules
The existing soil in the bed determines the extent to which aggregates are beneficial. In the starting position, the soil should already be loamy-sandy and not too damp. Compacted soil is optimized with quartz sand, perlite, pumice and peat. Explicitly sandy soil can be enriched with 3 to 4 year old compost, leaf compost, granulated cattle manure or loam. Potting soil from the supermarket is unsuitable for succulents, as it causes masty growth with the risk of rot due to its high humus content.
Tip:
Sterilize the pot substrate in the oven or microwave before use
The promises of the manufacturers may be as full-bodied as they promise the sterile nature of a substrate. As long as there are organic components in it, it is nevertheless advisable to disinfect it yourself. This is how it works:
- Pour the substrate into a fireproof bowl
- Put the lid on loosely
- Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Celsius
- Disinfect in it for 30 minutes and let it cool down
Alternatively, place the jar in the microwave at 800 watts for 10 minutes. Now you can be sure that there are no longer any pathogens in the substrate.
Tip:
The pot diameter corresponds to a third of the growth height
Choosing the new planter a few centimeters larger by eye does not really meet the requirements of successful cactus care. You are on the safe side if you choose a pot with a diameter that is one third of the height of the plant. If the succulent grows higher than 100 centimeters, the value drops to a quarter, but no less than a sixth. In addition, the shape of the bucket takes root growth into account. Shallow-rooted plants feel more comfortable in wide bowls, while taprooters are happy with a deep pot.
Tip:
Drainage above the bottom opening prevents waterlogging
While the rainwater and irrigation water seeps away after a while in the professionally prepared garden soil, cacti in the planter are threatened by waterlogging. If the excess moisture cannot drain off, the water collects in the root ball. The root strands are literally drowning and the succulent is beyond saving. You can effectively prevent this shortcoming with the help of drainage. Spread coarse-grained, inorganic material such as crushed potsherds, pebbles or grit over the bottom opening in the pot. To prevent the crumbs of earth from getting stuck in between, insert an air- and water-permeable fleece between the drainage and the substrate.
Tip:
Thick work gloves, several layers of newspaper or styrofoam plates protect against thorns
The longer the thorns on a cactus, the greater the gardener's discomfort. If you are even confronted with the glochidia on Opuntia, protective measures are indispensable. These thorns have barbs that are very painful to remove from the skin.
Conclusion
Cacti are among the most rewarding ornamental plants in the house and garden. Without requiring extensive care, the succulents delight with the most amazing silhouettes and breathtaking blooms. In order for the prickly beauties to achieve this masterpiece over many years, regular replacement of the substrate gives them the vitality they need. You are now familiar with how to properly repot and transplant cacti thanks to this guide. Browse through the 10 best tips to enable your thorny companions to move to the new planter or location without stress.
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