Pomegranate tree care from A-Z + how to overwinter the pomegranate

Lavish bell-shaped blooms, spectacular fruit and a biblical life expectancy are the outstanding attributes that define a pomegranate tree. If the Mediterranean ornamental and fruit tree is cared for by experts, its picturesque blossom magic unfolds north of the Alps. Even the harvest of the furious pomegranates is then within reach. This guide will familiarize you with all aspects of perfect pot cultivation. This is how you properly care for and overwinter the pomegranate.

location in spring and summer

The distribution area of ​​the pomegranate tree extends across central and western Asia as well as the sun-drenched regions of the Mediterranean. Consequently, a Punica granatum has not learned to thrive in winter conditions. This circumstance requires special framework conditions at the location so that the beautiful flowers and unmistakable fruits appear in large numbers. How to place the bucket correctly in the garden and on the balcony:

• Full sun, warm location with at least 3 to 4 hours of sunshine
• Ideally protected from wind and rain
• Temperatures do not drop below 5 degrees Celsius even at night

The pomegranate tree is said to be able to withstand short-term minus temperatures of – 10 degrees Celsius without damage. However, it is not advisable to try it out, especially with young, less hardy potted plants. Therefore, please only clear the tree when it has been proven that the night-time temperatures in spring are hovering around the 5-degree mark. A minimum-maximum thermometer at the intended location shows when the plant can move into its place under the open sky. Since the crown is still without leaves at this time, prior acclimatization in a semi-shady place is unnecessary.

substrate

In its Asian, subtropical and Mediterranean distribution areas, the pomegranate tree prefers well-drained, sandy and nutrient-rich soils. The better the substrate in the tub simulates this soil quality, the more vital the growth and flowering will be. We recommend a high-quality, peat-free potting soil as a substrate. A high proportion of peat is not only highly questionable from an environmental point of view. In addition, peat-based potting soil loses a great deal of water-storing power once it has dried. By using a substrate mixture of green waste compost, wood fibers and bark humus, you offer your exotic flowering shrub ideal living conditions.

Pour

Long before the flowering season begins in June, the pomegranate shines with a dense dress of soft, lush green leaves. The degree of evaporation is correspondingly high in full sun. Regular watering is therefore one of the key functions in the care program. How to do it right:

• Water plentifully and regularly as soon as the substrate surface has dried
• Water thoroughly to ensure constant moisture inside the root ball
• Pour out the coaster after 10 minutes to avoid harmful waterlogging
• Allow the soil to dry noticeably until the next watering

Please use primarily filtered rainwater or stagnant tap water. A pomegranate tree should only be planted under the influence of the blazing midday sun in exceptional cases be watered if, for example, it is threatened by acute drought stress and its leaves discards. Instead, water early in the morning and again in the evening if necessary. Do not spray the plant, but let the water run directly from the watering can onto the root ball.

Fertilize

The summer nutrient requirement is at the same high level as the water requirement. Therefore, fertilize a pomegranate weekly from March to September. For this purpose, add a liquid fertilizer to the irrigation water according to the manufacturer's instructions. If the substrate is dry, please pour clear water beforehand. This care prevents the salts contained from damaging the dried roots. Commercial fruit and berry fertilizers as well as special citrus fertilizers in liquid form are best suited for the nutrient supply.

If the ornamental tree indicates a weakened constitution by dropping leaves or brown leaf edges, pause with the administration of fertilizer. Disturbances in the metabolism impair the absorption of nutrients, so that an excess of salts accumulates in the substrate, resulting in root damage. Only when problems in cultivation have been resolved does the nutrient supply start again.

Cut

Characteristic of the pomegranate is the growth of its pretty bell-shaped flowers in terminal clusters. This feature implies that pruning will have serious consequences. Cut off the branches in the summer, at the same time end all hopes for the longed-for pomegranates in the fall. If you pull out the scissors in spring, most of the buds for this year's blossom festival will fall victim to them. Under which premises a cut makes sense, we have summarized below:

• The best time is during the hibernation between December and March
• Cut back shoots that are too long by up to two thirds
• Cut just above a leaf node or bud
• Thin out dead branches at the base
• Remove shoots that are too close together, crossing and pointing inwards

You can effectively prevent balding and senescence if you cut off the base of the two oldest shoots every 2 years. This measure creates space for new growth, so that a continuous rejuvenation takes place. At the same time, the bush or crown cannot be bare because the light can penetrate deep into the plant.

hibernate

When the temperatures drop in autumn, the pomegranate tree sheds its leaves. This property makes wintering north of the Alps much less complicated than for evergreen ornamental and fruit trees from southern Europe. Without the foliage, the water requirement is reduced. At the same time, the nutrient supply drops to zero. Determining the right time to move to the winter quarters is still the most difficult criterion in the wintering program. How to guide a pomegranate tree successfully through the winter:

Don't admit too soon

The pomegranate tree is one of the illustrious circle of Mediterranean plants that can survive temperatures below freezing for a short time. Therefore, there is no need to rush when autumn arrives. On the contrary, you significantly impair the resistance of the plant by moving to the winter quarters prematurely. The longer a Punica shrub can soak up fresh air and sunlight, the better prepared it is for the hardships of the dark season. Please only bring the bucket in when the mercury column falls below zero at night. First, remove the remaining leaves if they haven't fallen off yet.

Winter care on the back burner

In the ideal winter quarters, there is a combination of coolness and light. Please do not expect your pomegranate to spend the winter in a well-heated, dim living room. Even the seemingly cool, unheated bedroom can still be too warm. Instead, choose a bright location with temperatures between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius. How to properly care for a pomegranate tree in winter:

• Do not fertilize from October to February
• Water in sips in winter to keep the root ball from drying out
• Check regularly for pest infestation

Where there is no unheated conservatory or a cool greenhouse for winter storage, an unheated stairwell is a suitable alternative. Place the bucket as close as possible to a window that is not tilted to ventilate the room. Alternatively, overwinter your valuable pomegranate tree in a special winter tent with an integrated frost guard in a bright location in the garden or on the balcony.

Don't clean up too late

Proper picking up of pomegranates proceeds under the opposite sign than putting away. The earlier your exotic winter guests can leave the house, the better for growth, health and flowering. A minimum-maximum thermometer is used to determine the optimum point in time. Here you can read in the morning at which low point the mercury column was the night before. If overnight temperatures in March/April do not fall well below freezing over the course of a week, clear out the plant. Due to its mobility as a container plant, you can bring the shrub or tree indoors overnight if the meteorologists announce a late onset of winter.

repot

At intervals of 2 to 3 years, a pomegranate tree has fully rooted its pot. If the roots push through the substrate surface or grow out of the soil opening, the care program is expanded to include changing to a larger pot. The best time to do this is after pruning or before clearing out in spring. The new bucket should give the root ball two fingers of space up to the edge of the pot. At least one opening in the bottom of the pot is essential for water drainage. A 3 to 5 cm thick drainage made of expanded clay or potsherds prevents waterlogging. How to expertly repot a pomegranate:

• Use a long knife to loosen the root ball from the bucket wall
• Lay the bucket on its side to cut off any outgrown root strands
• Hold the pot with one hand while the other hand grasps the root neck
• Slowly pull the plant out of the pot
• Shake off the old soil, removing large chunks with your fingers if necessary

If the root ball is in front of you without any substrate, this is an excellent opportunity to cut out dead roots. Now fill a few handfuls of potting soil in the new pot and position the root ball in the middle of it. While stabilizing the plant with one hand, gradually add more substrate with the other hand. The previous planting depth should be retained, as well as a watering margin of 2 to 3 cm. Finally, water the pomegranate tree with soft, room-warm water. Fresh substrate has a supply of nutrients for about 6 to 8 weeks. Only after this time has elapsed does the weekly application of fertilizer begin.

Learn more about potted plants