Outdoor fuchsias: 4 hardy fuchsias for outdoors and pots

Originally shaped flowers in numerous color combinations make fuchsias one of the most popular plants for the tub. From June to November numerous of these flowers hang down on delicate stems. Hardly any other plant is so floriferous. It's a good thing that there are also hardy varieties that can stay outdoors all year round. But what are the requirements of these flowering wonders?

Origin

The mountain forests in the imposing Andes of South America are the home of fuchsias. Most of the approximately 7,000 varieties are adapted to the mild climate that prevails there and therefore do not want to spend the cold days outside in Northern Europe. However, some varieties that grow at higher altitudes in the Andes are particularly hardy and robust. They can also withstand sub-zero temperatures, and the hardy varieties are descended from them.

The Fuchsia magellanica (also magellanic fuchsia or scarlet fuchsia) and the Fuchsia corallina can form new shoots directly from the root area in spring. Both trees grow into compact bushes up to 80 cm high. The bright red flowers stand out against the background of dark green leaves.

Hardy varieties

More and more breeds take into account the climatic conditions of Northern Europe and are accordingly hardy. Various new color variants have also developed from the original red varieties, including multicolored ones. The "mother" of the hardy specimens named below is the scarlet fuchsia.

• 'Riccartonii' with impressive color brilliance and long flowering period
• 'Tricolor' with white, green and pink colored leaves
• 'Very Sweetheart' with two-tone flowers
• 'Whiteknight Pearl' with pale pink flowers that appear white from afar.

Many other varieties are available on the market, which can certainly trigger a passion for collecting. Because a true fuchsia lover cannot possibly decide on just one plant and be content with that.

growth pattern

Hanging, semi-hanging and upright varieties give plenty of scope for planting. Whether for climbers, flower beds or as a climbing plant, there is a suitable variety for every garden area. Stems with a beautifully shaped crown are a nice eye-catcher in the bucket. The various cultivars also differ significantly in terms of growth height. Small varieties are only around 30 cm high.

Medium-sized varieties can grow up to 1 meter. Finally, there are varieties that can grow more than two meters tall. The height is a decisive criterion for the selection of a suitable place. Or vice versa: the specific space available places certain limits on the variety selection.

heyday

The flowering period of fuchsias is long, very long. It starts in June and can last until the first night frosts. Blossoms in December are definitely still part of the repertoire. Blooming this late, fuchsias are a rare and valuable treat for the many insects in the garden, such as bumblebees and bees. The small-flowered varieties in particular are often approached by insects. Single-flowering varieties begin flowering in June. The double varieties, such as 'Constance' and 'Marco Boy', will follow about a month later.

Location

Almost all fuchsias in the garden love the blazing sun. In a well-lit place, they develop a compact habit and bloom more profusely than in the shade. The proximity of perennials and small shrubs is desirable, but not large trees and shrubs. With their large roots, these would withdraw too many nutrients and water from the shallow-rooted fuchsia. Especially in winter, the lack of soil moisture would lead to so-called dry freezing and thus to fuchsia plant failures.

Floor

Hardy fuchsias do not place too high demands on the soil. However, the following criteria should be met:

• normal garden soil
• easygoing and humorous
• finely crumbly soil with good drainage
• no stagnant moisture
• pH 5.5 to 6.5 (acidic to neutral range)

When planting hardy fuchsias in pots, a drainage layer of about 5 cm is required to allow water to drain well. Of course, the pots must also have at least one drainage hole.

root protection

Fuchsias form much of their roots flat on the surface. The important growth hormone is probably produced in the tips of these roots. While the aerial parts of the fuchsia love the hot sun, the roots are at risk of burning. The upper layer of earth dries out quickly in summer because the water evaporates due to the heat. The fuchsias therefore urgently need root protection. Two alternatives are available.

• Bark mulch as a light cover
• evergreen groundcover for shade underplanting

planting time

Newly purchased fuchsias or self-grown young plants may only be planted in the garden in May after the ice saints. Planting should be completed by mid-July at the latest, as this is the only way for the fuchsia to have enough time to grow. Only use well-developed plants, they will achieve the necessary winter hardiness faster and more reliably.

1. Find a suitable, sunny location.
2. Dig the ground well.
3. If necessary, remove foreign, still active roots.
4. Dig a hole and plant the plant.
5. Fill in the gap with soil, leaving a watering well.
6. Water the plant well.
7. Always keep the soil moist but not too wet.
8. Fill in the hollow in the fall.
9. Plant a ground cover or cover the soil with a layer of bark mulch.

repot

If you keep hardy fuchsias in pots, they must be repotted into a larger pot once a year at the beginning of the growing season. Use a high-quality potting soil from the trade or mix the potting soil yourself. Use one part each of garden soil, compost and quartz sand. The fuchsia pot must have a drainage hole that is protected from clogging with a shard.

Pour

In a sunny place, the soil dries out faster, it has to be watered diligently, especially in summer. However, always water as needed, as fuchsias do not like waterlogging. The current weather conditions play a key role in this. In summer, during the flowering period, daily watering is usually required. Water only in the morning, and if not otherwise possible, also in the evening. Never water in the midday heat! On dry days you can rinse the fuchsia with lime-free water in the morning and in the evening.

Fertilize

Fuchsias that grow outdoors permanently should not be over-fertilized. Over-fertilization would have more serious consequences than under-fertilization.

• too much growth
• less flowering
• reduced winter hardiness

How to properly fertilize your hardy outdoor varieties:

• first fertilization in spring
• Top-up fertilization at the beginning of flowering
• Always combine fertilization with watering
• commercial complete fertilizer with trace elements is sufficient
• Slow-release fertilizer is also recommended
• depending on the composition of the soil, fertilizing with lime is advisable

pruning

The hardy fuchsias bloom on annual shoots. If fuchsias are not pruned regularly, they will become bald over time. They are cut back in the spring as soon as new growth has started. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut off at least a third of the fuchsia, avoiding the old wood if possible.

With many hardy fuchsia varieties, however, the above-ground parts usually freeze off in winter. With these varieties, leave at least 2/3 of the plant parts above ground in autumn, even if they freeze later. They are good winter protection for fuchsia roots. In the spring, scrape the old shoots with a sharp knife to see if they have died. If so, cut them down to the ground. The fuchsia then drives out new shoots directly from the root. Withered flowers should be removed regularly.

multiply

Even hardy fuchsias can easily be propagated from cuttings. A good time is August, on the one hand it is still warm and on the other hand the cuttings still have enough time to root. With the step-by-step instructions, you can easily propagate.

1. Clean and disinfect sharp secateurs.
2. Select several soft or only slightly woody shoot tips.
3. Cut off the shoots below the third pair of leaves.
4. Carefully remove the bottom pair of leaves.
5. Fill small pots about 12 cm in diameter with potting soil.
6. Plant two to three cuttings in each pot.
7. Water the cuttings well.
8. After that, cover them with a clear hood.
9. After two weeks you can air the plants occasionally.
10. Once the cuttings are established after about 6 weeks, you should transplant them into regular soil.

The young plants may still too weak to spend the first winter outdoors. Overwinter them first in a suitable winter quarters. Planting out should not take place until next year, when the plants are stronger and have already lignified shoots.

winter protection

Even hardy fuchsias need winter protection in harsh winters. The flat-growing root ball in particular is sensitive to cold. How to overwinter your fuchsias:

• Only plant strong fuchsias
• young fuchsias are not sufficiently hardy
• new fuchsias need to be planted out early in the summer so they can take root well
• Cover root area with bark mulch or 30-40 cm layer of leaves
• Ground covers in the root area are also good winter protection
• Stop fertilizing as early as August so that no more immature shoots grow
• Winter protection is no longer required until around April

Overwinter potted plants

Hardy fuchsias planted in tubs tolerate light frosts down to -3 degrees. They should stay outside as long as possible, but will eventually have to move to winter quarters. The following applies:

• darkened place is necessary
• frost-free with temperatures of 10-15 degrees
• cut back slightly beforehand
• remove wilted flowers and yellowed leaves
• water only a little
• do not fertilize

Diseases

Humid weather can favor fuchsia rust. The red-brown fungal coating on the underside of the leaves spreads rapidly under good conditions. Act immediately with a commercially available fungicide. Good ventilation prevents this disease. When planting, make sure that your hardy fuchsias are not too close to other plants.

A white coating on leaves, buds and flowers shows up when the fuchsia is sick with powdery mildew. Cut off all affected parts of the plant. Disinfect the cutting tool to avoid further contamination. A mixture of water and milk (9:1) is said to effectively combat the fungus. Spray the fuchsia with it and repeat the treatment if the infestation is severe.

Whitefly and aphid droppings are food for sooty mold. If you fight these causes, then the sooty mold fungus will also disappear.

pests

Extreme dry or wet weather can often lead to pest infestation. The most common pests are:

• aphids
• fuchsia gall mites
• Red Spiders
• weevil
• thrips
• bugs
• white flies

A suitable location and planting that is not too dense can help preventively. Once they are there, the earlier the infestation is discovered, the more effectively they can be combated.

• Check fuchsias regularly for pest infestation
• Don't forget the undersides of the leaves and the inside of the flowers
• a powerful water shower from the hose drives away some pests
• biological pest control is preferable, e.g. B. Nematodes against weevil larvae
• Use spray mixes made from natural ingredients
• chemical agents are poison for the environment and only the last alternative

Learn more about potted plants