Grow carrots yourself

Carrots are still easy to sow and care for, but numerous pests and diseases can cause them problems before harvest and noticeably reduce the yield. So that the initial work is worthwhile and the carrots end up on your own plate instead of as parasite food, there are a few factors to consider. But if you make the effort once, you can not only look forward to a large harvest, but also grow carrots more easily in the future. And even on the balcony.

Location

Lots of sun and occasional wind do the carrots particularly well. The sun ensures a warm soil and good growth, while the wind drives some parasites out of the bed. Raised beds are a good choice if the soil is rather cold or there is dense wind protection from other plants. These are also recommended because they make the cultivation sequence easier due to the clear demarcation.

substrate

The substrate for growing the carrots must be permeable, deeply loose and rich in nutrients. The soil may well be loamy, but then it has to be loosened up by adding sand. Caution is advised if the bed for the carrots is right next to water bodies or in a depression. The root vegetable likes a constantly moist substrate, but not wet. If rain or overflow from the pond and barrel cannot drain away quickly, the harvest is at risk.
Nevertheless, normal garden or plant soil is perfectly sufficient as a basis. In any case, the substrate must be prepared accordingly for the cultivation of the carrots.

Preparation of the bed

Before carrot cultivation can begin, the bed must be properly prepared for the healthy vegetable. This involves several steps:

1. Fertilize sufficiently in autumn before planting. Well-rotted compost, manure or horn meal is ideal.
2. In the case of soils that tend to compact or are loamy, a spade must be used. Profound loosening of twice the spade length or a depth of 30 to 50 centimeters is necessary so that on the one hand the water can drain off and on the other hand the roots can spread without any problems can. This measure also distributes the fertilizer more evenly.
3. If the ground is firm, sand or gravel must be added.
4. A thick layer of mulch is then applied to protect against weeds. Lawn clippings that can be spread over the ground immediately after mowing are best suited for this.

The bed must rest over the winter. Here, the nutrients from the fertilizer are distributed and settle down a bit.

variety selection

While the bed over the Witer becomes the ideal breeding ground for the cultivation of carrots through natural processes, hobby gardeners have time to choose the variety. A basic distinction is made here between storage carrots and early carrots. If you want to harvest in May or June, you should use the early varieties. For a supply of vitamin A, root vegetables are sufficient in autumn and winter, along with stored carrots.

Early carrot varieties

• Nantaise breeds such as Bolero F1 or Flyaway F1
• Purple Haze
• Purple Sun
• Red Samurai
• caracas

Types of carrots suitable for storage:

• Red Giant
• Long Red Blunts (No Heart)
• Hilmar
• ingot
• Yellowstone

sowing

Depending on the variety, sowing can begin as early as February or as late as June or July. In any case, the carrot seeds are sown directly into the bed. Preparing carrots indoors and then transplanting them is not recommended, as this will inevitably damage the roots. This can greatly reduce the yield. In addition, the carrots tend to split. Not to mention the extra work involved.
The following procedure is recommended for growing carrots in the bed:

• 1. Draw straight lines that are 15 to 25 centimeters apart.
• 2. Set individual seeds three to five centimeters apart, place seed ribbons in the indentations.
• 3. Cover the carrot seed with a layer of soil about one centimeter thick.
• 4. Moisten the substrate well.
• 5. Cover with a layer of grass clippings mulch.

Piling up and ridge culture

The piling up, or the dam culture, is initially a less expensive alternative to carrot cultivation. Digging can largely be dispensed with. Superficial loosening should only be carried out on very dense, hard soil. The carrots are then first sown as described above, but there is no need to cover them with mulch. When the carrots grow out of the ground, they are repeatedly covered with soil until they turn green. In this way, dams are gradually built up. The purpose of piling up is to protect the carrots from the sun and thus from turning green. The clear advantage is that there is no need for deep digging. For this, however, you have to work in the bed again and again.

bed care

Especially early varieties of carrots need a lot of time to germinate. At least three weeks should be planned for this. In this phase, the young carrots are particularly vulnerable to competition and quickly become overgrown. This means that weeding has to be done early and regularly to remove weeds. Alternatively, the entire bed can be covered with mulch made from grass clippings, except for the sowing line itself. Apart from that, the following points should be observed when caring for carrot cultivation:

• Mark the sowing line with fast-germinating pointer seeds, such as watercress or radishes, or indicate it with a taut thread - this makes targeted weeding easier
• If the bed was not fertilized, it can be made up for with horn meal during or after sowing
• Favorable companion plants are onions, garlic and leeks - these keep some pests away
• Do not plant in the immediate vicinity of parsley, parsnips and other umbellifers
• In the event of an infestation with pathogens or pests, remove and destroy affected plants immediately
• Keep the substrate as evenly moist as possible, but avoid moisture at all costs

Cultivation on the balcony

If you don't have a garden at your disposal, you don't have to do without fresh carrots from your own cultivation. Some varieties that remain smaller are suitable, such as:

• Nandor F1
• Adelaide
• caracas
• Paris Market

The carrots can be grown here in pots, tubs, boxes or planting bags. Location and substrate do not differ from cultivation in the bed. The instructions already described should also be observed when watering and fertilizing. However, it is important to ensure that the vessels are sufficiently deep. In addition, piling up is recommended for balcony culture, because it requires less deep soil and less soil.

diseases and pests

As already mentioned, some pests and diseases can pose a threat to carrot cultivation. Below:

• bugs
• aphids
• carrot fly
• moth caterpillars
• rot
• black rot
• carrot blackness
• Violet Rootslayer

The signs are basically similar: the carrots either show signs of being eaten or discolored, moldy coverings. With some means and measures, however, it is quite easy to take action against such infestations.

• Choose a windy location, make sure there is enough space between the rows and the carrots themselves
• Protect seeds and plants with a vegetable net or fleece
• Create mixed cultures with onions, leeks, calendula or marigolds
• Only plant carrots in the same bed after three to four years after other vegetables have been cultivated
• Conduct regular visual inspections and remove and destroy or bury deep underground if there are signs of parasites and pests
• Prepare the soil for planting the carrots by loosening it
• Keep the substrate moist but never waterlogged 

If these tips are followed, infections and damage caused by parasites can usually be effectively prevented. Of course, it is still advisable to select resistant varieties.

Conclusion

Growing carrots is no problem in your own garden or even on the balcony if you have the necessary knowledge. The easy-care vegetable requires little work, but still requires appropriate protection against infestations with diseases and harmful insects. If the carrots are treated to this, nothing stands in the way of a rich harvest. Even beginners in plant care can therefore recommend carrots.

Learn more about types of vegetables