Tillandsia caput-medusae, Tillandsia

It thrives without a substrate and spreads an exotic flair with snake-shaped leaves in living spaces. The epiphytic Tillandsia caput-medusae is easy to care for as a houseplant, provided you pay attention to the unorthodox requirements. When properly cared for, this tillandsia does not cause any difficulties even for the inexperienced hand. These care instructions explain how you can skilfully tie up the glamorous bromeliad plant in the perfect location, bring it to bloom, water it properly, fertilize it, hibernate it and propagate it.

Characteristics

• Genus within the bromeliad family (Bromeliaceae)
• Name of the genus: Tillandsia (Tillandsia)
• Name of the species: Tillandsia caput-medusae
• Common name: Medusa head
• evergreen, herbaceous flowering plant in epiphytic growth form (epiphytes)
• native to South America, mainly Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras
• tubular, blue-red flowers in early summer
• gray-blue, serpentine leaves arranged in rosettes
• Heights of 15 to 40 cm
• Minimum temperature: 15 degrees Celsius
• Maximum temperature: 40 degrees Celsius

A Tillandsia caput-medusae only uses its roots to cling to high trees or rocks. Since the exotic bromeliad does not need a substrate, a multitude of creative cultivation variants opens up in living spaces. The head of Medusa stands out impressively with the bizarre snake leaves on branches, stones or cacti.

care

Anyone who can adapt to the unconventional attitude will meet the few demands of this tillandsia even as a debutant in hobby gardening. These care instructions explain all the relevant details in a practice-oriented manner, from the ideal location to skillful tying up to correct watering, fertilizing, overwintering and propagating.

One of its distinctive characteristics is that a Tillandsia caput-medusae acts as an ant plant in the wild. This does not mean that ants contribute to their reproduction by transporting seeds. Rather, the tillandsia enters into a symbiotic community with the ants by offering them a place of retreat. In return, the insects make a contribution to care by repelling pests and providing a natural fertilizer with their droppings.

Location

A Tillandsia caput-medusae pulls out all the floral registers if it is assigned a light location. A window seat with mild sun in the morning or early evening is ideal. In the blazing midday sun on a south-facing window, shading should be available.

temperature

A tillandsia would like to be cultivated all year round at normal room temperatures. The thermometer should not drop below 15 degrees Celsius. Since its maximum temperature of 40 degrees Celsius is the exception in the Central European climate, no special precautions are required here.

humidity

The head of Medusa achieves its optimum when a combination of warm temperatures and high humidity dominates the location. The bizarre tropical beauty rewards a place on the window sill of the bathroom or kitchen with vital growth.

In other living rooms, a humidifier, indoor fountain or aquarium create a minimum level of humidity, which also benefits the gardener's well-being. If you spray your Tillandsia caput-medusae regularly with soft water, the exotic bromeliad should have no cause for complaint.

Untying

The substrateless care of an epiphytic tillandsia requires an alternative cultivation. The framework conditions in the habitat are simulated by tying the plant to an adequate base. As a rule, branches, cork boards or blocks of wood are suitable for this purpose. Durable types of wood, such as robinia or yew, are ideal. The grapevines that are often used should be steamed or heated beforehand in order to destroy any pests inside.

Sometimes creative gardeners decide to fixate on cacti or other plants that also have their origins in South America. Since a Tillandsia caput-medusae is not picky about this, you can give free rein to your imaginative ideas. The following 3 methods have proven to be effective in practice for fastening:

Fixation with nylon stockings

Tying tillandsia with nylon stockings is one of the best tried and tested techniques. The material is stretchable, stable and breathable, so that it offers the epiphytic plant reliable support.

This is how it works:

• cut a nylon stocking into horizontal strips with a width of 4-5 cm
• Position the tillandsia on the surface with fine wire or a wire frame
• Guide a strip of fabric between the lower leaves so that a braided look is created

With a little dexterity, you can tie the two ends of the fabric together. Where no knot is possible, staple the nylon to a wooden surface or rake it in with wire.

Gluing with silicone

The nylon stocking method does not work on inorganic substrates such as stone. In this case, glue the Tillandsia caput-medusae with a contact adhesive such as silicone. Please use special silicone for natural stone, as it contains only a small amount of acetic acid. Since the adhesive has to dry for several hours, fix the Medusa head to the base with clamps during this time.

Attach with hot glue

This variant only temporarily connects the bromeliad with the rootstock. After 12 to 24 months at the latest, the glue has hardened to such an extent that it no longer holds the plant in place. If you decide to use a hot glue gun, please let the glue cool down a little before applying.

to water

Spraying replaces watering

Even though a tillandsia does not stretch its roots in the substrate, it is still dependent on a regular water supply. The root strands are designed to draw moisture from the air. So spray the plant instead of watering it.

How to do it right:

• Depending on the general conditions at the location, spray the head of the Medusa one to three times a week
• Use primarily collected, filtered rainwater or decalcified tap water
• do not wet the plant with cold water

Where there is no access to collected rainwater, boil calcareous tap water beforehand. Alternatively, fill a 10 liter bucket with normal water. In it you hang a cotton sack filled with 1 liter of peat. Within a few days, the peat removes the lime from the water.

Fertilize

The balanced nutrient supply of tillandsia is controversial among amateur gardeners. In view of the comparatively slow growth, the consequences of an overdose are only recognized late. In order to avoid this danger, we recommend a cautious supply of nutrients. Since the plant, thanks to its aerial roots, has the most amount of carbon it needs in the form of carbon dioxide Withdraws room air, all that is required is nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and magnesium in the form of fertilizers to submit later.

The following procedure has proven itself in practice:

• add a liquid bromeliad fertilizer to the water every week from April to September
• from October to March extend the fertilizer interval to 3-4 weeks
• dilute the dosage recommended for indoor plants to a 25 percent concentration
• Spray or shower the tillandsia with the nutrient solution

Please do not apply the liquid fertilizer in direct sunlight, as the leaves could be burned. It is an advantage if you temper the solution to 15 to 18 degrees Celsius. As darkness favors the absorption of nutrients, you should ideally administer the fertilizer in the evening hours.

Achieve blooming

Bring to bloom

If the head of Medusa keeps the flower under lock and key despite all your efforts, you can bring the tropical plant to bloom with a simple trick. For this purpose, pack the tillandsia with an overripe apple in a transparent plastic bag that you close tightly. The apple gives off the ripening gas ethylene, which at the same time has a beneficial effect on the willingness to flower.

To what extent the flowering of a Tillandsia caput-medusae should actually be forced is an open question. The plant only flowers once in its life and then dies. Furthermore, the flower colors develop more intensely when the plant blooms without horticultural intervention.

Cut

The tillandsia is not pruned. Dead, withered leaves are often released by the plant on its own so that they can be plucked out. Alternatively, press down the dead plant part to cut it off at the base with a sharp, disinfected knife. The cut can be powdered with rock flour or charcoal ash.

Overwinter

Since a Tillandsia caput-medusae is cultivated all year round at room temperature, the care program changes little during the winter. Now adjust the water and nutrient balance to the changed conditions. Under the influence of dry heating air, the plant should be sprayed more often.

On the other hand, reduce the nutrient intake to the application of diluted liquid fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks. It is important to note that the plant is not exposed to temperatures below 15 degrees Celsius. Furthermore, a bright location is still indispensable.

Multiply

Since a tillandsia in indoor cultivation only blooms very rarely and only at an advanced age, propagation by sowing the seeds is not practical. To make matters worse, the plant is not self-pollinating anyway. The use of offshoots for offspring is much less complicated and more promising. Kindel produces a vital mother plant for its continued existence, as it dies after flowering. These are daughter plants that have the same attributes. Spring is the best time for this measure.

Follow these steps:

• Only cut off the Kindel from the mother plant when the leaves have reached a length of 10 cm
• Put the daughter plant in a pot with a substrate mixture of peat and sand
• moisten the substrate with lime-free water
• Put a transparent hood over the nursery pot to generate a warm, humid microclimate

On the partially shaded window seat, ventilate the cover several times a day so that no mold forms. Spray the Kindel and the substrate regularly with lime-free water. Once the first roots have developed, the young plant can be potted and tied to a suitable base.

Root children without substrate

As an alternative to rooting in peat sand, cultivate a daughter plant without a substrate right from the start. To do this, wrap wire around the base of the child. You put the end of the wire into a block of wood. Place this in the bright, not full sun window seat. The process is faster in a heated indoor greenhouse at 23 to 28 degrees Celsius.

Spray your pupil regularly with soft water. The young tillandsia receives fertilizer only when it has developed some roots. At this point the plant is mature enough to be tied up like an adult Tillandsia caput-medusae.

Pests

A tillandsia cared for according to these care instructions is usually spared from diseases. Since it has to do without the protection of ants in indoor culture, which keep pests from its neck in the habitat, problems can arise in this regard. It is mainly aphids that target a Medusa head. Therefore, please check the leaves regularly for an infestation. If the tiny white, green, brown or black lice spread here, a tried and tested home remedy provides a remedy in the early infestation stage.

How to control aphids:

• rinse the infected plant with as sharp a water jet as possible
• alternatively, wipe the lice with a damp cloth
• Prepare a solution from 1 liter of boiled water and 1 tablespoon of liquid soft soap
• Spray the infected tillandsia every 2 to 3 days

To prevent the aphids from spreading to neighboring plants, we recommend isolating the infested Tillandsia caput-medusae until the plague has been controlled.