Plant climbing roses in pots

With floral opulence, climbing roses give facades, trellises and obelisks a breathtaking appearance. In order for the queen of flowers to create this masterpiece from the bucket, a few specific premises must be observed. The following instructions aim to clear the way for interested hobby gardeners of possible stumbling blocks in the cultivation of climbing roses in planters. The following lines sum up how to plant climbing roses in tubs, care for them professionally and make them winter-proof.

The ideal bucket

Deep-rooting, roses anchor themselves deep in the ground. Established at the site, the taproots reach up to 100 centimeters deep into the ground. This characteristic implies that only a large tub can provide enough space for the root ball of climbing roses. The perfect planter should be like this:

• At least 40 centimeters high
• Ideally tapering towards the bottom
• One or more floor openings for water drainage
• Light in color to reflect sun rays

Since climbing roses develop a considerable weight over time, plastic planters are ruled out from the outset. Choose a frost-resistant, value-retaining material that guarantees stable stability. Since roses value cool feet, pots made of zinc or any other metal are also out of the question. Such materials heat up too much in summer sunshine.

Plant

A central criterion for the successful cultivation of climbing roses in tubs is the choice of substrate. While the roses in the garden soil thrive in loamy soil, this only applies to a limited extent in planters. Here the permeable, airy texture comes into focus, so that there is no waterlogging. Therefore, a high-quality rose soil from the specialist trade or a self-mixture, which consists of a maximum of 50 percent clay, can be considered is optimized by additives such as compost, sand, peat, perlite, coconut fibers, polystyrene balls and the like Materials. How to plant step by step:

• Place the still potted climbing rose with the root ball in water until no more air bubbles rise
• Cover the water drain with a 3-5 cm high drainage made of grit, expanded clay, pebbles or broken pottery
• Spread an air- and water-permeable fleece over it so that the material does not become clogged with crumbs of earth
• Fill in a first layer of substrate, unpot the rose, plant in the middle and water
• The grafting point should end up about 5 cm deep in the ground

Prudent hobby gardeners consider a pouring rim to prevent water from spilling over.

Climbing aid and tying up

Climbing roses do not have any adhesive organs, so they do not climb up on their own. It therefore requires a climbing aid to fix the long rose shoots to it. Cultivated in tubs, creative hobby gardeners have access to a wide range of possible climbing aids. The following overview may serve as inspiration on the way to an individual solution for your green kingdom:

• Column integrated in the bucket, a pyramid or an obelisk
• Placed in front of a house wall with a frame made of wood or tension wire
• Placed in front of a pergola or arbor
• Positioned at the foot of a rose arch

Specialist shops have plenty of suitable fastening material available. Binding material that does not cut into the plant tissue and is almost invisible thanks to the green color on the tendrils is ideal. For the untying itself, the top priority is to arrange the climbing rose in an airy manner to prevent fungal infections. In addition, the horizontal direction of the side shoots promises a particularly lush abundance of flowers.

Care

Climbing roses prefer a sunny and at the same time airy location. As much as the noble flowers would like to catch every ray of sunshine, they do not want to be exposed to the pent-up heat of a wind-protected south face. In general, roses value care that is based on balance. This applies in particular to the water and nutrient supply:

• Keep the substrate constantly slightly moist
• Even short-term waterlogging has fatal consequences
• Allow the potting soil to dry between waterings
• Apply organic liquid fertilizer from April to mid-July

Climbing roses in tubs are only supplied with nutrients using organic preparations. The risk of over-fertilization is too great if mineral blue grain or rose fertilizer is used. Long-term fertilizers in the form of sticks or cones represent a realistic variant here, because they only release their active ingredients gradually, so that overdosing cannot occur.

Cut

A mainstay in the proper care of climbing roses is regular pruning. This measure regulates the growth of the long shoots so that they thrive compact and floriferous. The ideal time for pruning is in late winter, just before the new shoots. How to do it right:

• Trim all deadwood and stunted branches at the base
• Cut off frozen shoot tips or those damaged by hail
• Trim tendrils growing out of shape and turning inward
• Consistently cut out plant parts affected by diseases or pests
• Do not cut one-year-old rose branches, but tie them to the trellis
• If necessary, cut back older tendrils down to 3-4 eyes

Always position the pruning shears at a slight angle just above a leaf knot. These dormant eyes are easy to identify as small bumps on the bark. After the main pruning took place in late winter, summer pruning care is limited to regular cleaning of withered blossoms and withered leaves. On the other hand, if the decorative rose hips are desired, faded umbels are not removed. Any game drive, no matter how the same, that protrudes from the substrate is immediately torn off.

to winterize

Regardless of the natural hardiness of roses, climbing species and varieties in tubs require some protective measures. Choosing a large bucket already helps to protect against frostbite, as the root area freezes over much more slowly here. The following aspects must be explicitly observed so that roses are prepared for the cold season:

• Stop fertilizing from mid-July to allow the shoots to mature
• Ideally place the bucket in front of a protective house wall
• Wrap the container with bubble wrap, jute or coconut mats
• Pile up the roots with leaf soil or cover with straw

Reed mats - placed in front of the climbing aid - keep the frosty wind and piercing winter sun away from the rose tendrils. If possible, hang fir twigs in the climbing aids or sackcloth.

Watering at frost

In addition to adequate winter protection, an adequate water supply plays a central role. As experience shows, climbing roses in tubs are more often threatened by drought stress during the cold season than during the summer. The cause is a special weather condition called Kahlfrost. If there are frosty temperatures while there is no snow, no water gets to the rose roots in the frozen substrate. Therefore, water on a frost-free day, but never with warmed water.

Conclusion

Climbing roses also reach breathtaking dimensions in pots when they cover their climbing aids with dense carpets of flowers. In order for the queen of flowers to develop the floral splendor to perfection, various premises must be observed. Even the choice of a sufficiently large planter is important. Climbing roses are planted in a particularly airy and at the same time structurally stable substrate. The water and nutrient supply requires a great deal of sensitivity, because a balance is required here. Professional pruning represents a central care aspect, which should not be missed in any year. If you also pay special attention to prudent winter protection, the climbing roses will do their best for many years.

Learn more about Rose