Plant shoots offshoots and wild shoots

Two phenomena in the plant world cause uncertainty among hobby gardeners. If an ornamental or useful plant develops long stolons, this process hinders the growth of neighboring plants and, in the worst case, takes on invasive forms. No less annoying are unattractive wild shoots that sprout from a rootstock and significantly impair the beauty of the noble variety. Stop wondering what to do. If a plant shoots runners and wild shoots, the following catalog of adequate measures for hobby gardeners is available.

What are spurs?

Various plants independently develop long shoots that grow out of the side shoots at right angles. These spurs fulfill different functions. They are responsible for the transport of water and nutrients, store reserves and stabilize. Primarily, runners – also defined as stolons – serve vegetative propagation. In some species they thrive above ground, in others they are underground.

The thickened and narrow areas are typical of runners. The thickenings, also known as knots or nodes, contain dividable material, while the areas between the nodes determine the more or less pronounced growth in length. If a plant grows particularly long runners, it is classified as an invasive species. Known invaders in the home garden are:

• tree of gods (Ailanthus altissima)
• Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia)
• Many-leaved lupine (Lupinus polyphyllus)
• Canadian goldenrod (Solidago canadensis)
• Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus)
• Chinese reed (Miscanthus sinensis)

Not forgetting all plant species that are considered weeds by definition. Typical representatives are ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria), couch grass (Elymus repens) and plantain (Plantago). In addition, other plant species develop offshoots of their own accord without immediately taking over the entire area. Ornamental trees such as lilacs also belong in this category, as do strawberries. In the case of ground cover, the growth of long shoots is even desirable and is specifically encouraged by the gardener.

Keep spurs under control

In order not to be confronted with the problem of long runners in the first place, prudent hobby gardeners take appropriate precautions when planting. Suspicious species and varieties are planted in the ground together with a root barrier. With expansive shrubs, such as the tree of heaven or maple, surround the root ball in one sufficient radius with an impenetrable geotextile buried vertically in the ground becomes. Plant smaller plants in large buckets or in a bottomless mason's vat. If the problem of long runners only becomes apparent over time, stop the unwanted growth with these measures:

• Mow off herbaceous runners regularly
• Cut off woody shoots with a spade
• Spread a 5-10 centimeter thick layer of mulch and renew it again and again

You can control suckering weeds with a combination of mechanical and chemical control measures. For example, the Japanese knotweed is repeatedly dug up and sprayed with a home garden-approved herbicide. It is important to note that as many runners as possible are removed from the soil and burned or disposed of with household waste. On the compost they simply continue their shameful activities. The plants will sprout again even from the smallest pieces of shoots.

Use the positive side of foothills

It is primarily aesthetic aspects that motivate gardeners to take action against runners on plants. Anyone who deals with the deeper meaning of this growth will recognize the benefits of these side shoots for uncomplicated propagation. The thickenings on the shoots, called knots or nodes, contain a wealth of tissue that is capable of dividing. From this, new branches and leaves can thrive, which develop into an independent plant.

Prime examples in this regard are strawberries or the extensive genus of houseleeks (Sempervivum). This is how foothills transform into magnificent young plants:

• Dig a seed pot with loose, permeable substrate in the immediate vicinity of a mother plant
• Lay a tail on the substrate and score the point of contact lightly with a razor blade
• Cover the shoot with substrate and fix it with stones or cramps

In the weeks and months that follow, the mother plant supplies the offshoot with nutrients, while an independent root system develops. If you feel resistance to a slight pull while new leaves are growing at the same time, the process has been successfully completed. With a sharp knife, the mother plant is separated in order to put the young plant in the new location in the ground.

How to identify wild shoots?

Highly bred noble varieties rarely have a stable and resistant root system. To counteract this shortcoming, experienced gardeners graft the noble upper part of the plant onto a robust wild base. The result of this measure is a combination of magnificent bloom beauty and tenacious growth. Grafted shrubs, such as roses or clematis, tend to develop wild shoots. Out of the blue, a wild root sprouts its own shoots, which compete with the noble variety for water, nutrients and light. To prevent them from overgrowing the entire plant, they must be removed. How to spot the culprits:

• The sprouting occurs below the grafting point
• The grafting point shows up as the thickened connection between the noble variety and the rootstock
• Wild shoots are visually different from noble shoots

There is usually a visible difference that even the untrained eye cannot miss. Wild shoots on roses, for example, have numerous small pinnate leaves and are covered with thorns. Wild shoots on a corkscrew hazel do not have the typical gnarled, twisted appearance, but thrive dead straight towards the sky near the ground. Unmistakably, wild shoots are also present on the white lilac, because they bloom in bright purple.

Properly remove wild shoots

If the culprit is unmasked, rapid removal is advisable in view of its growth. However, a simple cut back could still boost growth, so that a more courageous approach is essential. How to proceed professionally:

• Expose the root neck with the shovel up to the point of attachment of the unwanted shoot
• Use garden shears or a sharp knife to cut off the branch close to the root neck
• Be sure to remove the ring-shaped aring completely
• Finally, cover the grafting site with soil again

If the branches are comparatively soft, as is usual with roses, tear them off without further ado. To avoid major damage to the bark, the bark is cut horizontally just below the shoot with a sharp knife. The subsequent strong jerk is from top to bottom. As long as even the smallest stub of a wild shoot remains on the plant, new, unsightly branches will appear at this point within a short time.

Conclusion

If a plant drives out runners and wild shoots, consistent action is required. So that the unwanted length growth on or under the ground does not take on an invasive character, stolons are patiently cut off until the plant tires and gives up. If you don't want to use this tactic of attrition, you can plant suspicious trees with a root barrier. A non-rotting and impenetrable geotextile or a stable bucket without a bottom are suitable. The confrontation with wild instincts is quickly over if you go to work courageously. It is important to identify the culprit and cut or tear off the astringee. The cultivation of a magnificent plant is therefore not necessarily to be forgone simply because it produces offshoots or wild shoots.

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