Table of contents
- Hardy species
- Not hardy species
- The best tips for wintering
- Hardy species
- Not hardy species
- Choose a bright location
- Don't overheat
- Water moderately, avoid waterlogging
- Remove faded flowers
In autumn, the perennials with their pretty flowers are commercially available everywhere, after all, the distinctive cyclamen flowers during the winter months and is therefore popular as a houseplant. However, the cyclamen (bot. Cyclamen persicum) no frost and must therefore remain in the apartment. The situation is completely different with other, hardy species of the genus, which can easily be planted in the garden.
Hardy species
The 22 different species of the cyclamen plant genus mostly come from mild climates to warm regions - mainly from the Mediterranean region, Turkey and Asia Minor - and are therefore not hardy. However, a few varieties defy the cold Central European winter, which is why they are suitable for planting out in the garden. You have the choice between the following three species, which can even tolerate very cold winters with temperatures down to minus 40 °C:
- European or summer cyclamen (bot. C purpurascens): flowers between July and August, shoots out again afterwards
- Wintergreen early spring cyclamen (bot. C coum): remains small, flowering time between February and March, planting in autumn
- Ivy-leaved or autumn cyclamen (bot. C hederifolium): Flowering period between August and October, leaves appear after flowering
In addition, varieties are occasionally available on the market that grow up to approx. minus 10 to 20 degrees Celsius are hardy. These species can also be planted in the garden, but they definitely need winter protection. This group includes:
- Anatolia cyclamen (bot. C cilicium): from Turkey, autumn flowering
- Amanus cyclamen (bot. C pseudibericum): from Turkey, flowering period April to May
- Propeller cyclamen (bot. C trochopteranthum): from southern Europe, flowering period February to March
- Cyclamen mirabile: from Turkey, autumn flowering
- C parviflorum: from Turkey, smallest species of the genus, autumn flowering
- C intaminate: from Turkey, up to ten centimeters high, autumn flowering
Please note that these species can freeze to death in very cold and snowy winters. This applies in particular to the propeller cyclamen, which is only frost-resistant down to minus 10 degrees Celsius. However, you can also take care of the plants indoors at temperatures between 12 and a maximum of 18 degrees Celsius.
Not hardy species
All other cyclamen species tolerate little or no frost and are therefore not suitable for winter outdoor cultivation. This is especially true for popular varieties like these:
- Cyclamen (bot. C persicum)
- Cyprus cyclamen (bot. C persicum)
- Greek cyclamen (bot. C graecum)
- Curly-leaved cyclamen (bot. C repandum)
- African cyclamen (bot. C africanum)
and other. Such plants should only be cultivated in pots and must be kept indoors between September and May. Only in the summer months do you put the planters in a sheltered and semi-shady place outdoors.
Tip:
Be careful when buying: just because the retailer advertises the plant as frost-resistant does not necessarily mean that it is true. Some resourceful sellers sell non-hardy cyclamen as suitable for overwintering outdoors. However, the awakening follows quickly, because these plants tolerate a maximum of minus five degrees Celsius - if at all - and freeze to death outside.
The best tips for wintering
Regardless of whether it is hardy or not: All types of cyclamen can be brought through the winter with a few tricks, so that you can enjoy the richly flowering plants for a long time. After all, the cold season has some pitfalls that need to be mastered.
Hardy species
Even if the hardy varieties are more or less frost-resistant depending on the species, they should still be protected from winter hardships.
Protected location
All cyclamen species need a bright spot in the garden that is not directly sunny and protected from the wind. It is best to place the tubers as underplanting under higher trees, where the plants find the necessary protection.
Sink the tuber deep enough in the ground
Avoid planting the tubers too shallowly in the ground: they freeze easily in deep frost. At a planting depth of between five and ten centimetres, the sensitive tuber is well protected from condensation and cold.
Tip:
If cyclamen are cultivated in a pot, they always belong in the house for a frost-free winter, even if they are a hardy species. The reason for this is the small amount of soil in the planter, which freezes very quickly in the event of frost and thus offers no protection for the tubers.
Winter protection with brushwood and leaves
Additionally protect the tubers from the cold with an approx. three to five centimeters thick protective layer of:
- Twigs (spruce or fir branches)
- compost
- or fall leaves
Only cover the soil area in which the underground plant organs lie. The flowers, in turn, do not need protection. The three very hardy cyclamen species basically only need as young plants (i.e. H. during the first two to three years) and in very cold winters, the other varieties should always be covered.
Avoid excessive moisture
Put the tubers where excess water - for example from rain or condensation - cannot accumulate. In heavier soils, also ensure effective drainage so that the water can run off. Otherwise, tuber rot can occur and the plants die.
Tip:
In case of doubt, hardy varieties can also be overwintered indoors. However, you should not place these species in the heated living room, but better place them in a cool and bright place - for example, the bedroom that is unheated for many people in winter is ideal.
Not hardy species
Overwintering the non-hardy cyclamen species, on the other hand, is a bit trickier. The following tips will help the plants to survive the cold season healthy and without pest infestation.
Choose a bright location
The same applies to cyclamen cultivated indoors as to cyclamen: the plants want light, but not direct sunlight. Staircases are usually very suitable, but also an (unheated) conservatory or your north-facing directed bedroom - provided there is not another tree or building in front of the window, which the light take away
Don't overheat
The most important rule for overwintering a cyclamen is this: do not place the plant warmer than 12 to a maximum of 18 degrees Celsius! Although the flowers do not tolerate frost, they do not like it too warm either. The windowsill in the living room is therefore the wrong place, instead unheated or little heated rooms are better suited.
Water moderately, avoid waterlogging
The cyclamen also needs water in winter, after all it is in its flowering period. So water it moderately but regularly - the soil in the pot should then feel slightly damp but not wet. Excess water should be able to drain into a planter or a saucer and be removed from there after 30 minutes at the latest. Always pour directly onto the ground or into the saucer - never from above!
Remove faded flowers
The flowering period and the formation of seeds cost the plant a lot of energy. You should immediately remove faded flowers so that they can collect enough nutrients and energy in their tubers until spring to sprout again. However, do not cut the shoots, but carefully pull them off.
Tip:
As a typical winter bloomer, the popular cyclamen (bot. Cyclamen persicum) flowers for a very long time between September and April, but takes a break during the summer months. You practically have to “summer” this species. This works best in a partially shaded, not too warm place in the garden or on the balcony. The plant can remain here until autumn, but must be brought back in before the first frost.
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