Table of contents
- What must a wine trellis be able to do?
- Step by step to the wine trellis
- A – Freestanding trellis
- Step 1 - Materials
- Step 2 – Foundation
- Step 3 – The rank construction
- B – Vine trellis mounted on a house wall
- Step 4 - Wall Mount
Wine thrives particularly well when the individual tendrils find space to spread in height and width. Here you can find out how to build a suitable trellis yourself.
What must a wine trellis be able to do?
In contrast to other trellis forms, such as for cucumbers, tomatoes or zucchini, the vine trellis must be made much more robust and stable. This is because, on the one hand, wine is a perennial plant that can sometimes become very old. In addition, the green mass of vines can be very large, especially in the private sector with decorative requirements. Therefore, the climbing aid must be able to withstand large masses in a stable manner.
What does this mean for the construction of the climbing aid?
The result is that you have to build your vine trellis much more massively than is the case with various other climbing aids in your garden at home. Above all, the use of already existing aids is therefore often ruled out.
Step by step to the wine trellis
When it comes to actually building your climbing aid, you should first deal with the basic construction. Optically there are countless variants of trellises, but in the end they are all the same in terms of their structure. Overall, there are only two fundamentally different construction methods:
- Free-standing climbing aid
- Wall mounted trellis
These two forms of trellis can also be traced back to a few, almost universal design features:
- foundation / fortification - ensures a secure footing
- main structure – Basis for actual climbing aids
- climbing aids – elements directly overgrown by the vines
A NOTICE:
In the following, the creation of a free-standing construction will now be discussed in detail. In addition, the differences in the construction of a wall-mounted version are named and explained, whereby similar construction methods are not discussed in detail again.
A – Freestanding trellis
Please read the instructions completely first to be able to avoid all eventualities.
Step 1 - Materials
First, an overview of the required materials ensures that you can implement the following work steps in a targeted and rapid manner:
The foundation
version 1
- No material required
Variant 2
- lean concrete, e.g. B. Dry concrete in sacks
Variant 3
- Drive-in sleeves for wooden posts, dimensions matched to wooden posts
The main structure
There are different options for a solid, durable and resilient solution for the main supporting structure:
- wooden post, min. 6x6cm, length min. 2.00m
- Round or square metal tubes, depending on the wall thickness approx. 4x4cm, length min. 2.00m, ideally galvanised, rustproof or with a protective coating
- Concrete posts for trellis and tension constructions, e.g. B. from the winegrower's needs, cross-sections around 10x10cm, length min. 2.00m
Tip:
Squared timber or wooden slat, min. 2x3 cm, length approx. 2.00m.
The climbing aids
version 1
- Tension wire, galvanized or rustproof, min. 1.0mm
Variant 2
- Round rods or tubes metal, diameter min. 2cm
A NOTICE:
If rods or tubes are used instead of wires, these must be much more stable and therefore thicker, since these elements cannot be stretched like wire. Instead, they have to cope with the load of the vines solely because of their inherent stability, without losing their integrity.
Tool
- spade / pickaxe
- shovel
- Bucket
- Cordless screwdriver or drill with wood, concrete or metal drill
- hammer and nails
- level
- sledgehammer
Step 2 – Foundation
After all the material is together, it's time to anchor the main structure to the ground. This point determines how stable the entire construction is later. Therefore, you should definitely proceed conscientiously and not undersized when building:
version 1
- Align wooden posts or metal pipes vertically at a maximum distance of 2 meters
- Hammer in posts or tubes about 0.50m deep with a sledgehammer
Variant 2
- Holes 0.50×0.50m wide and min. Dig 50 cm deep
- Adjust and align metal, wood or concrete posts or pipes vertically
- Fill holes with lean concrete mixed according to the manufacturer's instructions
- Compact the concrete with a wooden stick or similar
- Wait according to the manufacturer's instructions until the concrete is fully solid
Variant 3
- Put the drive-in sleeves on the wooden post and fix them with nails
- Align the posts vertically at a maximum distance of 2.00 meters
- Drive in the drive-in sleeves to the specified depth
Tip for more stability:
Basically, the supporting posts should now stand independently and give the overall construction the necessary strength. In addition, the posts can be connected at the upper end using a wooden slat. This is simply placed and nailed to wooden posts. In the case of metal pipes or concrete posts, fastening with wire or screws is suitable.
Step 3 – The climbing structure
The last thing to do is to actually create a climbing facility for wine from the supporting structure. For this purpose, horizontal tension wires are stretched, or alternatively bars are installed in the same position:
version 1
- Drill the post horizontally: the bottom hole about 50 centimeters above the ground, then increasing distances of 30 centimeters each
- Pass wire through bottom hole on outer post, wrap twice around post and twist with leading end
- Thread wire through all posts, each hole at the same level
- At the last post, lead the wire to the next higher drill hole and drive through all posts in the opposite direction
- Pass wire through last post, top hole, wrap twice around post and twist end with feeding wire
Variant 2
- Drill holes in the thickness of the existing bars
- Push rods through holes to create a horizontal connection between posts
DANGER:
It must be ensured that the bars are at least long enough to cover the space between the posts and half the post thickness per post. Then, with wider trellises, bars can be joined in the posts.
B – Vine trellis mounted on a house wall
It can happen again and again that a grapevine is used to green a building or as a privacy screen. Then it can make sense to position the climbing aid directly in front of a solid wall. It is true that mounting on this component alone is not recommended due to the heavy weight of vine plants. However, a trellis in the form already described can be wonderfully fixed to solid walls made of half-timbering, masonry or concrete for additional support:
Additional material
- screws, min. 20 to 25cm long
- Suitable dowels for masonry and concrete
version 1
- Sections of the selected posts, approx. 10cm long
Variant 2
- Metal tubes, diameter around 1cm, length 10cm
Additional tool
- Impact drill with concrete or masonry drill, diameter matching the dowel
- Cordless screwdriver with matching bit for selected screws
Step 4 - Wall Mount
The trellis should be erected as already described. A good distance from the wall is 10 centimetres, because then sufficient air can get between the wall component and the plant to safely dissipate moisture:
- Drill through the post at the top end about 10 cm from the head perpendicular to the wall
- Drill through the posts about 30 centimeters from the floor, perpendicular to the wall
- Put the screws through the hole and mark the point of impact on the wall
- Remove screws again
- Drill holes for dowels at the marked points to the required depth
version 1
- Also drill through the post sections in a 10cm direction
- Push dowels into the wall or -hit
- Pass screws through post
- Push post sections onto screw
- Continue the screw to the wall and screw it into the dowel
- Tighten the screw
Variant 2
The procedure here is the same as when using the post sections. However, instead of the pieces of wood, the tube segments are attached to the screw and used as spacers to the wall.
DANGER:
In order to create the wall holes, the posts should first be provisionally aligned and then removed again after marking the wall holes. Alternatively, the trellis can be completely erected. Then the holes can be drilled through the posts into the wall using a drill that is at least 30 centimeters long. Then the drill hole in the post just has to be big enough for the masonry drill to fit through. When screwing, a sufficiently large washer should be used so that the screw does not disappear into the drill hole.
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