Water and fertilize herbs on the balcony properly

Watering and fertilizing is actually quite simple if everything is done correctly when putting together the plants in each container. Not all herbs go together. Some herbs require very little water, others significantly more. It's the same with nutrients. The immediate neighborhood must also be taken into account. Not every herb can work with the other. So if you know the needs of the individual herbs and place them accordingly, watering and fertilizing is very easy to do.

Correct combination of herbs

The selection of the plants that are to be planted in a common container, for example a balcony box, is crucial for their thriving. Of course, the lighting conditions on site and the plant substrate also play a role.

Annual herbs include: basil, dill, garden cress, chamomile, chervil, coriander, marjoram, parsley, rosemary and stevia. Most are simply not hardy and are therefore classified as annuals, although they are actually perennials. Biennials and perennials include: mugwort, winter savory, blood sorrel, watercress, Tarragon, cumin, garlic, mint, lemon balm, oregano, sage, chives, celery and sage Thyme.

Dill, garden cress, marjoram, parsley, borage and chervil are suitable for a larger balcony box. These annual herbs like uniform site conditions and can be planted in a uniform substrate. The soil shouldn't be too dry, but it shouldn't stay wet for too long either. They also like similar conditions when it comes to fertilizer. Everything fits together here.

For a smaller balcony cat, for example, oregano, sage and savory are suitable. These three need a lot of sun, can handle drought and need less nutrients, so the composition is great. Chives, thyme, sage, lemon balm and tarragon also harmonize.

Under no circumstances should basil and lemon balm be planted together, as well as thyme and marjoram, Fennel and coriander, dill and tarragon or very vigorous herbs such as lavender or lovage. Larger growing herbs like to stand alone. They are simply too big for normal window boxes on the parapet. They are planted in separate, larger containers and placed directly on the floor of the balcony. These include the lavender and lovage just mentioned, the real laurel, wormwood, lemongrass, hyssop, southernwood and the clove tree.

plant substrate

Almost all herbs require permeable soil. It is ideal if you install drainage at the bottom of the container so that excess water can run off. Expanded clay is well suited for this. There is nothing worse than standing water in containers, which usually leads to rotting of the roots very quickly. Heavy loamy or clayey soils are unsuitable for herbs. If there is no other option, then make this soil more permeable with coarse sand or fine gravel. For the herbs from the Mediterranean region, such as lavender, rosemary, etc., the soil must be very permeable and not too rich in nutrients. A substrate that is too rich can be thinned out with sand. Lavender likes calcareous soil, so you can mix in some magnesium lime every two years. The addition of bird sand, which contains small pieces of lime, is sufficient for the vessels. With mint, lovage or tarragon, adding plenty of compost is recommended. It is ideal to cover the soil with a layer of mulch, this keeps the moisture a little longer and the soil does not dry out as much. This is not recommended for Mediterranean herbs.

Water herbs properly

Once you have made the right choice of plants and put them together, watering them is not a problem as long as you don't drown them. Unfortunately, many plant lovers make the mistake of simply meaning too well when it comes to watering. They simply drown their plants. If you don't feel like you can simply feel or see when it's time to water, you should do the so-called finger test. To do this, a finger, usually the index finger, is simply stuck about 5 cm deep into the ground. You can feel how wet the substrate is dry. This way you know when it's time to water, provided the plants' wishes are known.

• It is best to use stagnant water for watering. It's also the right temperature. Freshly tapped tap water should never be too cold.
• Rainwater is ideal, but most herbs also tolerate our tap water.
• Only very calcareous water is not suitable for many species.
• Do not water in the blazing midday sun. Morning is much better, evening is also recommended, but on cold nights care must be taken not to get the leaves wet, otherwise disease will be encouraged.
• Thyme, marjoram, oregano and rosemary only need a little water.
• Lemon balm, lovage, chives, chervil and parsley need a little more.
• Tarragon and basil need a lot of watering

Fertilize herbs properly

Many herbs are very frugal plants that do not require many nutrients. But there are also those who need plenty of supplies in order to develop properly and to be able to unfold their aromatic substances. Since the naturally occurring nutrients are missing in containers, fertilization is required. There are special herbal fertilizers on the market. The problem with these, however, is that the herbs have different requirements. Therefore, a single fertilizer is unfavorable for all. When dosing the fertilizer, it is important that only plants grow in a container that also match in terms of their nutrient requirements. Otherwise, the danger of over-fertilization is great and the plants can even perish as a result. The herbal fertilizers from the trade are only suitable for plants in containers, not for the open field and only for herbs that need plenty of nutrients. The dosage must be strictly observed, as well as the recommendations for the intervals between fertilization. Anyone who has planted their herbs in fresh herbal soil does not have to fertilize for the first 6 to 8 weeks, because this substrate already contains long-term fertilizer. Premature re-fertilization leads to over-fertilization.

• The best fertilizer for herbs is compost, at least for those that only have a medium nutrient requirement, e.g. B. Chervil, tarragon and lovage.
• In any case, organic fertilizer should be used, because the herbs are to be used. Also, organic fertilizer is good for the soil organisms, which in turn improve the soil. Nettle stock, horn shavings or horn meal, rock meal and others.
• Coffee grounds are a good fertilizer for some herbs. Not only does it release nutrients (only a few, i.e. for weak eaters), it also keeps pests away, especially snails, which do not crawl over it. Coffee grounds are not suitable for lime-loving herbs, such as sage, oregano or borage.
• Herbs with a high nutrient requirement: wild garlic, basil, tarragon, lovage, mint, chives, lemon verbena
• Medium nutrient herbs: borage, dill, chervil, oregano, sage, hyssop, lemon balm
• Herbs with low nutritional requirements: mugwort, savory, cress, lavender, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, rue

Conclusion

Watering and fertilizing herbs properly isn't science, but there are a few basic things to consider. It is absolutely important to only put herbs together in a container that have the same requirements in terms of location, soil, water and nutrients. That is not always easy. Sometimes it is better to use several small containers and place them next to each other in a window box than to plant them directly together. An alternative are planters with an irrigation system, which have two smaller inserts in a long box. So you can put together two different groups. You just have to know how to help yourself. To test when it's time to water again, simply stick your finger in the substrate. That reveals a lot. Too much watering is significantly worse for most herbs than too little, but not for all. Herbs that don't get enough water don't die right away. They let sagging leaves show that it's time to water. They usually recover quickly after that. Constantly wet soil is not so noticeable. The roots rot away. If there is damage to the plant, there is usually nothing to be saved, because there is not much you can do to prevent rot.

Learn more about growing herbs