Cut Japanese maple in 6 steps

The Japanese maple is one of the most popular ornamental trees in Germany due to its delicate leaves and characteristic growth. The plant originally comes from the East Asian region, more precisely Japan, China and Korea, and is one of the most important plants there that are used for bonsai art. If you are the proud owner of Acer palmatum, you are most likely wondering how the Japanese maple is pruned. You can find suitable instructions here.

Cut Japanese maple

Before reaching for scissors, the need should be considered. It is known that maples are difficult to tolerate pruning because they bleed intensely. This can lead to a variety of problems:

• Pathogens find their way into cuts
• intensive resin formation
• Frost damage if the cut is too late

Such problems occur with all maple species and for this reason it is reasonable to think that this can also happen with Acer palmatum. This concern is not unfounded, because if the pruning is too radical, the plant will suffer from the pruning and in most cases will not be able to recover. The big advantage of the ornamental maple, however, is the higher cut tolerance in contrast to other taxa, which is the education as

bonsai made possible in the first place. For this reason, the opinions of the experts also differ widely. Two clear opinions can be found here:

1. Japanese maple, like other taxa of the genus, does not tolerate pruning and should therefore not be pruned. There is nothing wrong with removing sick or dead wood.

2. The maple is cut compatible and will survive one maintenance cut per year.

The cuts are made and prepared in the same way. You have to decide for yourself whether you want to cut the Japanese maple completely or just freshen it up.

Note: Don't be put off if you come across red Japanese maples as well as green maples at the nursery. The original variant of the Japanese maple was leafy green and numerous varieties are colored intensely red, especially over autumn.

time

If you have decided on pruning measures on the Japanese maple, you have to determine the right time for this. If you choose the right time, you will reduce possible problems after the pruning measures and support the maple in growth. Red ornamental maple is quite resistant to the scissors, but not to cold temperatures or high humidity. For this reason, there are two dates that are ideally suited for the maintenance cut:

1. Spring: Spring is the ideal time for pruning the Japanese maple. The days are particularly recommended after the ice saints Mid-May to the first week of June. The climate is mostly dry and sunny, which gives moisture and fungi no chance of damaging the maple.

2. Summer: If you prefer summer, the maple cut is ideal for all of them June at. The weather is excellent for pruning and the crop should then be able to recover from the beginning of July at the latest. At this point in time it is possible.

Since red maple, like all other species, takes a long time to heal, you should give the plant sufficient time to be able to recover accordingly. For this reason, do without pruning measures in autumn and especially in winter. Frost is one of the greatest enemies for Acer palmatum and should definitely be avoided. That's another reason why you should never cut the Japanese maple before the Ice Saints, as temperatures can fluctuate a lot until mid-May.

preparation

With good preparation, you will make the maintenance cut easier, as this will preserve the health of the Japanese maple and will not cause intensive bleeding. The choice of scissors is particularly important, because red ornamental maple must not be cut with the wrong tool. You need to avoid damage and this is why you need a tool that will effectively implement this project. The following scissors are ideal for cutting maple:

• Loppers
• Secateurs

With the scissors, you have to make sure that they are also prepared accordingly. This step is important as it will avoid possible damage and infection that could result from the cutting measures. Compared to other maples, the Japanese maple is quite easy to cut, but only if you can carry out the cutting measures correctly. The following measures are necessary for this:

• Sharpen scissors
• then clean thoroughly
• Disinfect at the end

Cleaning and disinfecting the scissors is especially necessary if you have previously used one diseased plant have cut. In this way, the pathogens and fungi get through the blades onto the cut surface and thus into the maple. Red ornamental maple should also only be cut with sharp scissors, otherwise serious damage can occur. Do the preparation thoroughly so you don't have to worry about problems once you've cut the maple.

Cutting Japanese maple: instructions

Once you've completed the preps, it's time to start cutting. In addition to the time, it is important that you choose a day for the cut when it is neither raining nor freezing. Such weather will severely affect the maple, as the excessive moisture and cold can lead to the following problems:

• Fungal attack
• Cold shock

Above all, the fungal attack must be avoided at all costs, as this can lead to the death of the Japanese maple within a short time. Most of the time, the fungi reach the wound areas shortly after the cut and can therefore quickly spread through the wood. Apart from that, all you need is your tools and the following instructions:

1. Mark young shoots

Start by looking at your Acer palmatum. You are looking for the shoots that are less than two years old, as these still bear little or no old wood. Because you must never cut into old Japanese maple wood, otherwise there will be heavy bleeding and even a possible loss of the plant. It is best to mark all the young shoots to move forward quickly and effectively. With a well-branched Japanese maple, the maintenance cut can take a little longer. You can recognize old branches by the fact that they can no longer form any more shoots.

2. Find branches

Red ornamental maple is always cut as little as possible. You always cut above a bud so that the plant can sprout relaxed and recover from the pruning measures. Two to three centimeters above a bud are recommended here. You can also cut over a branch, whereby you should also pay attention to the distance here. If you want to significantly stimulate growth above the cut, cuts above the branches are recommended, as these will effectively sprout the maple.

3. Smooth cuts

Put the scissors on and cut without tearing. This is very important because if you tear the plant, it will bleed more. Cutting smoothly is important in order to keep the area small, in which fungi and pathogens could enter. Likewise, you should not squeeze the shoot, as this will not please the Japanese maple at all. The response is stress, which can have a negative impact on the vitality of the plant.

4. Remove sick shoots

Remove dried out, kinked or diseased shoots as much as necessary. While these need to be removed, you shouldn't cut too much here either.

5. Wound closure

After the incision, it is advisable to use a wound closure agent for the incision wounds. Red maple will bleed even after a perfect cut, as the maple genus (bot. Acer) is just too prone to the scissors. Apply the wound closure agent and let it take effect. Since the Japanese maple has a higher cut tolerance than its relatives, the agent works effectively and ensures that the cut surfaces are not attacked by fungi or bacteria. After cutting, do not touch the cut wounds to allow the Japanese maple to recover.

6. Dispose of cuttings

It is best to dispose of the cuttings on the compost. Dispose of sick shoots in household waste or burn them as they pose a risk of infection.

As you can see, the maintenance cut is not complicated in itself. You just have to be careful not to cut too deep so as not to damage the old wood. This maintains the shape and vitality of the maple and in this way ensures the consistency that is typical of the plant. Use caution when pruning maple and you will be amazed how your red maple will grow.

tip: When raised as bonsai In the spring, in addition to the actual pruning, you must remove the tips of the shoots in order to stimulate the branching of the maple. This limits the height of the plant at the same time, which is an essential point for bonsai trees.