In addition to the vermicompost, there is an even faster way to obtain good and cheap fertilizer. We show how easy it is to build a Bokashi bucket yourself. With this technique from Japan you can quickly get fertilizer on the balcony or even in the apartment. The principle of a Bokashi bucket comes from Japan and makes use of lactic acid fermentation in the absence of oxygen. In this way, inexpensive fertilizer can be obtained quickly in the smallest of spaces with minimal odor development.
Bokashi bucket: variant 1
This variant is the most practical and easiest way to get your own Bokashi bucket. Implemented quickly and without much effort.
material
- 2 identical conical buckets (plastic)
- 1 matching lid
- 1 water tap (rain barrel)
- possibly. some sealing tape
- 1 thin garbage bag
- 1 freezer bag filled with sand (quartz sand)
tool
- Cordless screwdriver or drill
- Drill bit (universal or wood)
- Hole saw or Forstner bit
- Pen (waterproof)
- Ruler, folding rule, etc.
- Scissors or craft knife
drill holes
Drill holes in the bottom of the inner bin (B) (only!). The holes should be large enough so that any liquid that forms can run off downwards, but small enough so that no organic waste falls through. Distribute the number of holes evenly.
Tip: Start with smaller and fewer holes. The number and size of the holes can also be increased the next time you clean, if the liquid builds up and does not drain properly.
Closing
The two buckets are now put into each other (the one with the holes goes inside). As soon as the lid is on the bucket, you actually already have a finished Bokashi bucket. If the buckets do not fit into each other that well or you have the feeling that air is drawing in, you can seal the gap between the buckets with modeling clay. Silicone is not recommended as it has to be removed every time you clean it and then reapplied later.
Tip: However, it is advisable to install a drain to regularly drain the Bokashi liquid without always having to remove the inner bucket.
Drain
Put the two buckets together and hold them in front of a light source (lamp or sun). Now you can see how much space there is between the two buckets on the floor. Mark this with a pen and measure the distance. Now you can buy a suitable faucet. It is important that the screw cap for the inside (the widest part of the tap) fits into this distance.
If you already have a tap that is a bit larger in stock, that's not a problem either. If the second bucket doesn't quite fit into the outside, you can go out
also cut out a piece of the inside. Place the screw cap on the outer bucket (A) and mark the center. A hole is then drilled in the bucket with a Forstner bit, hole drill or comparable tool. It also works with scissors or a craft knife, but is more dangerous for the fingers - so be careful!Tip: Hold a piece of wood against it from the inside so that the bucket doesn't break or tear.
When the hole has been drilled, the edge is carefully deburred with a cutter or scissors. Now you can screw the tap into the hole. If the hole is a bit too big, it can also be sealed with sealing tape.
Bokashi bucket: variant 2
You don't always have two identical buckets available or you don't want to buy extra material. For this variant, a lockable bucket and a second, which can also be a little smaller, are sufficient. The bottom of the inner bucket should be provided with holes as in variant 1. In order to create a cavity between the two buckets, in which the Bokashi liquid fertilizer can collect, you should put an elevation in the large bucket. Flat baskets made of plastic or coasters made of clay or ceramic are suitable for this. Since the entire Bokashi principle is based on the exclusion of oxygen, the main thing is that the bucket closes tightly.
Fill correctly
Kitchen waste goes into a bokashi bucket just like it would go on the compost. Vegetable or fruit waste and parts of plants are perfect for this and should best be chopped up beforehand.
Attention: Meat (including fish), ashes or paper have no place in a Bokashi bucket.
Activate
To activate or need to support effective microorganisms "EM" are added to the waste.
What are "EM"?
Effective microorganisms can be bought ready-made. It is particularly easy to dose as a spray. EM consists of lactic acid bacteria, yeasts and many other very active little helpers. Those who are particularly keen to experiment can also be lucky with
Try unpasteurized sauerkraut juice, bread drink, sourdough, unpasteurized whey or the liquid from drained yogurt. There are reports that these things are said to have a very similar effect - with no guarantee.What else has to go in?
Stone meal prevents the formation of odors, but please use it sparingly. Ceramic powder (2-3 teaspoons) and activated charcoal support the fermentation and also help with the decomposition.
Sealing
When the organic rubbish and all other ingredients are in the bucket, the whole thing is covered with a garbage bag and compressed with a little pressure. There must be no voids between the waste, because mold could develop here (which must be avoided at all costs). There is also a weight on the film so that nothing slips. A larger freezer bag filled with quartz sand is ideal here. This now presses everything together and helps to seal.
Bokashi harvest
Every few days (1-3 days or depending on the fill level) you can drain the compost water and use it later as liquid fertilizer. The compost water collected is very acidic (pH value below 4) and should only be used as fertilizer when diluted with water. Depending on the plant, application and Bokashi mixture between 1:20 and 1: 100. 1:50 is a guideline, but you should be ready to experiment.
Tip: Make sure to always drain the liquid. The liquid must not go up into the other bucket - otherwise there is a risk of mold.
The real bokashi
The upper contents (Bokashi) can be disposed of on the compost after 2 weeks. Let it sit on the compost for a few days and allow it to ventilate well. Then you can mix it with other materials (green waste, etc.).
Alternatively, you can soil the fermented Bokashi (mix well 1: 3 with soil) and then add it to the bed as fertilizer. Since the Bokashi solids also have a very low pH value (are acidic), it should only be used in places and plants that can tolerate it. The very high nitrogen content promotes plant growth very well, but is too high for many soil dwellers.
Tip: Never put directly into worm composters.