Indian nettle, Monarda didyma: care and cutting

The Indian nettle Monarda didyma, also known as Monarde and gold balm, is a real eye-catcher, both in the bed and in the tub. Not only the medium-sized, scarlet flowers are irresistible, but also their beguiling, peppermint-like scent. This fireworks display of flowers begins in the first days of June and ends at the end of July. The leaves and flowers of this majestic plant are not poisonous. An aromatic tea can be made from them.

Characteristics

• Plant family: Mint family (Lamiaceae)
• Botanical name: Monarda didyma
• German names: Indian nettle, gold balm, scarlet monard, monard, bee balm
• Origin: North America
• Growth: upright, bushy, runners
• Height: 80-150 cm
• Spread: 50-70 cm
• Blossom: medium-sized, simple, ball-shaped, whorled and tiered, dark to light red
• Flowering period: June to July
• Foliage: green, lanceolate
• Lime tolerance: lime tolerant
• Toxicity: not toxic

Location

In their natural habitat, the scarlet monard thrives on evenly moist meadows and on the edges of forests in light penumbra. It is also very adaptable in the home garden, it can cope with full sun as well as in light partial shade. However, it should not be permanently exposed to the blazing midday sun.

The Indian nettle prefers loose, well-drained, fresh to moist, humus and nutrient-rich soils, with a pH value between 6 and 7. Short-term drought is not a problem for this plant, but waterlogging and winter wetness are. It is therefore advisable to incorporate some compost in order to keep the soil slightly moist. The addition of sand also makes the soil more permeable and makes it easier for the plants to develop roots. For potted plants, on the other hand, a well-drained and nutrient-rich potting soil for flowering plants is suitable.

plants

The best time to plant the Indian nettle Monarda didyma is in the spring after the ice saints. This early planting gives the Indian nettle enough time until winter to develop strong roots. Speaking of roots, this plant spreads through runners. If you want to prevent uncontrolled spreading, you can add a root barrier made of commercially available pond liner when planting.

• Line the planting pit with the foil
• The roots of the Indian nettle should not grow beyond the foil
• Without a root barrier, ensure that there are 40-60 cm spacing between plants
• The planting hole should be twice as deep and wide as the root ball
• Mix excavated earth with compost
• Smaller stones as drainage on the bottom of the planting pit
• Fill part of the soil into the planting hole and insert Indian nettle
• Finally fill up with soil, press lightly and water

For planting in a tub, the planter used should have a volume of at least 10 liters due to the runners-forming properties of this plant. Furthermore, it is important to ensure good drainage, which is covered with a fleece. fills in with soil and the plant begins. After watering, excess water in the saucer should be removed.

Tip: Monarda didyma can cause slight skin irritation in sensitive people, but it is not toxic.

care

The Indian nettle is a very undemanding and easy-care plant. Incidentally, it owes its name to its flowers, which are reminiscent of the feather headdress of Native Americans. In natural gardens, next to sun hat, yarrow or sage, this monarde looks particularly attractive. This perennial also cuts a fine figure in combination with ornamental grasses, asters, goldenrod or fat hen. And with the right care, it will remain an eye-catcher in the home garden for many years.

to water

An important part of maintenance is needs-based watering. The Indian nettle copes well with drought as long as the soil is slightly moist. In the case of persistent heat and drought, watering must be carried out thoroughly so that the soil does not dry out completely. However, if it is left too dry for too long in summer, this can affect the flowering.

In spring, autumn and winter the natural amounts of rain are usually sufficient. Plants in the tub, on the other hand, have to be watered more often because the substrate dries out much faster here. Watering should preferably be done in the early morning or evening hours and, if possible, only with rainwater.

Fertilize

The Indian nettle is one of the medium-consuming plants and therefore needs a little more nutrients. In spring she is grateful for a compost, but she also gladly accepts commercial complete fertilizers with a constant ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (NPK fertilizer). Fertilizers that are too nitrogenous are not so good, they could cause the plant to shoot up and bloom. Please make the first fertilization before the new shoot. Pot cultures can be supplied with a liquid fertilizer every 4-6 weeks, depending on the pot volume.

Cut

Regular cutting is also part of the maintenance. In autumn, the leaves of the Indian nettle turn yellow until they are completely yellowed. Now is the right time to prune this perennial close to the ground. In the spring it drives out again. Sometimes it is also recommended to prune the monard immediately after flowering or in early spring, which acknowledges it with a new shoot.

A pruning in spring should not be done too late, because then it can happen that the new shoots shift backwards and both growth and flowering are impaired. Dried flowers, leaves and stems should be removed regularly. This clears the way for new shoots and even more flowers.

Tip: A mild, tasty tea can be made from the leaves and flowers of the Indian nettle, because this plant is not poisonous. The flowers can also be used for edible garnishes.

Overwinter

With a pruning in autumn, the Indian nettle is already well prepared for wintering. It is very frost-tolerant and can withstand temperatures down to minus 34 degrees. Therefore, at least with older plants, winter protection can be dispensed with. An exception, however, are young and freshly planted Indian rockets, which are not yet sufficiently winter hardy. Of course, specimens that are grown in buckets also need protection.

Young plants in the bed can be covered with brushwood, leaves or mulch, for example. You can protect potted plants by first placing them away from the ground, on a wooden pallet or styrofoam plate. The bucket is wrapped with a fleece or another insulating material and the root area is also covered with brushwood. No more protection is required.

Multiply

sowing

Sowing is more difficult than vegetative propagation, but it is still possible. However, the plants obtained from it are not single-variety, so that one cannot be sure what will ultimately come out of it.

• Collect seeds from dead flowers
• Keep dry and warm until sowing in spring
• Preculture from February / March or direct sowing from mid-May
• No-till not before the ice saints
• You need seed trays or small pots, seed soil or coconut substrate
• Fill the seed pot with soil
• Distribute the seeds evenly on top
• Press the seeds lightly and cover them with a thin layer of soil
• Moisten the substrate and keep it evenly moist during the entire germination period
• Finally, cover the pots with glass or translucent foil
• Cover ensures optimal germination conditions

To avoid the formation of mold or The cover should be removed briefly every day for ventilation. The first seedlings can usually be seen after about two weeks. If they are big and strong enough, they can be transplanted after the Ice Saints.

Cuttings

A vegetative propagation like that with cuttings is basically easier than sowing and guarantees varietal purity. The best time to cut cuttings is in early summer. They are cut from half-ripe shoots without flowers and buds and should be about 10-15 cm long. An inclined cut can make it easier for the cutting to absorb water later. Except for the topmost leaves, all remaining leaves are removed.

Now small pots are filled with potting soil and a cutting is placed in each pot. Press the substrate on, moisten and from now on constantly moist, under no circumstances wet. Then they are put in a light and warm place for rooting. The rooted cuttings are overwintered indoors and only planted in their final location outdoors in the following spring, when frosts are no longer to be expected. They should still be protected from frost for the next two to three years.

division

Another form of vegetative reproduction is division. However, this should be done at least every five years, on the one hand to prevent or prevent the plants from aging. to rejuvenate them and, on the other hand, to keep them blooming. In addition, this can counteract uncontrolled spread.

• Divide potted plants when repotting
• Divide plants in the bed in spring before they sprout
• Division also possible in autumn
• First, carefully dig up the plant in question
• Then divide the rhizome into several pieces
• Each section should have sufficient roots

Before replanting the newly gained plants, it is advisable to enrich the soil in the planting area with compost. Now they can be used and watered thoroughly. If the plants are divided in autumn, however, they should be protected with an appropriate cover in winter.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

It occurs mainly in persistent drought and changing temperature profiles. If the plants are too dense, this can also encourage infestation.

• Powdery mildew can seriously disturb the appearance of the Indian nettle
• Infestation is shown by a white to light gray, flour-like coating
• Initially on the leaves, later also on stems and flower buds
• Further damage is usually barely visible
• Heavy infestation can lead to stagnation in growth
• Start fighting at the first sign
• Thin out the plant and treat it with a suitable fungicide

Home remedies such as B. Milk, which is often recommended for combating powdery mildew, is often only successful in the case of a slight infestation and usually has to be repeated several times. To prevent repeated infestation, the plant should be cut regularly, as well as a well-ventilated location and needs-based irrigation.

rust

In addition to powdery mildew, the leaves of Monarda didyma can be attacked by rust fungi between May and September. An infestation is indicated by yellow-brown or rust-red spots on the upper side of the leaf. There are small pustules and fungal spores under the leaves. The fungal network soon runs through the entire plant and deprives it of important nutrients, which leads to the death of the infected tissue, and in the case of particularly severe infestation even the entire plant.

Damp weather also favors the whole thing. Combating these fungi is only promising if it is started early. The specialist trade offers different fungicides for this. They have to be applied several times at 8-14 day intervals. As a support, you can cut off infected parts of the plant and dispose of them.

Pests

The Indian nettle is relatively robust against pests. Only snails can become dangerous. An infestation can severely affect the appearance of the otherwise beautiful plant. The snails themselves, of course, indicate an infestation, as they nibble on the plant and have eaten and perforated leaves.

The most effective means is to track down and destroy the clutches, which like to hide under shrubs, bushes as well as dead wood and stones. They also feel very comfortable in old mulch. As a rule, however, they are not found in unprotected open spaces. If that is too cumbersome and time-consuming for you, you can collect the snails regularly, preferably early in the morning or late in the evening. In addition, you can build snail barriers in the form of a snail fence or spread slug pellets, preferably the biological alternative. Mulch should be circulated with a rake or, even better, completely replaced.