Bonsai care from A-Z

click fraud protection
Bonsai beginner knowledge

table of contents

  • Bonsai trees
  • Buy bonsai
  • Location
  • Water bonsai trees
  • Fertilize
  • Cut
  • Wire bonsai trees
  • Overwinter
  • Repot and substrate
  • Diseases, pests and care mistakes

Bonsai trees are very popular with many, because caring for them is not only a challenge, but can also have a calming effect and provide relaxation. However, it is not easy to get started with this beautiful hobby as a beginner. However, with the right knowledge, it can work without any problems and the bonsai can not only be a real eye-catcher. It can also be the pride of your own plant collection.

Bonsai trees

Not every bonsai is suitable for beginners, as some species are more demanding than others. These plants, among others, are ideal for entering the world of bonsai trees:

  • maple
  • azalea
  • Weeping fig or ficus
  • Chinese juniper
  • Fukientee
  • Jade tree
  • jaw
  • liguster

They have comparatively low requirements and can therefore be kept well by beginners in plant care or bonsai culture.

Buy bonsai

Every now and then there are bonsai trees in hardware stores and nurseries - sometimes even on sale. The comparatively low prices can tempt you to buy, but the plants often die very quickly after the purchase. This does not necessarily have to be due to incorrectly performed care. Generally unfavorable rearing and culture can also be responsible for this.

It tends to be better to seek advice from experienced gardeners or to buy the bonsai directly from a specialist for the noble plants. The plants are usually more expensive here than, for example, at the hardware store or even in the supermarket. However, they are often also more durable.

Chinese elm as a bonsai

Location

The location of the bonsai naturally depends on the type of plant. Some prefer full sun, while others prefer partial shade. The requirements for humidity and temperature can also vary considerably between the different species. However, there are a few points to keep in mind with all bonsai trees:

Don't just keep inside

For the plants that can be grown as bonsai, summer should mean time outdoors. From May or June, when late frost is no longer to be expected, the plant can be taken outside. Direct sunlight, oxygen and typical temperature fluctuations help the bonsai tree to thrive and become more robust. If, on the other hand, the plant is only in the apartment, this can quickly lead to death or at least to reduced growth and diseases.

Choose protected locations

The bonsai should be given a protected location both outdoors and indoors. Because direct midday sun, heavy rain or wind or cold drafts can damage the plants.

Slow getting used to it

If the bonsai is moved from inside to outside, it should initially be in the light shade - even if it is a type of plant that needs a lot of sun. This can prevent burns from occurring on the plant. If the nights are even cooler or frost is to be expected, the bonsai tree should also be brought back into the house. This can also prevent damage.

Water bonsai trees

When it comes to watering, there are of course just as much differences between the plant species as there is in the choice of location. Here, too, there are general rules that must be observed. For example, you should always wait until the soil has dried before watering. The so-called thumb test is recommended for this. The thumb is pressed about one centimeter into the substrate. If damp earth sticks to it, it does not have to be poured. On the other hand, if the substrate is dry, water must be added. In the case of plants that are outside in summer, this may well apply twice a day. Rainwater, stale tap water and untreated pond or aquarium water are ideal - since water comes from these sources Low in lime and soft is. The water should also be room temperature.

It is poured in stages and directly onto the root disc. This means that the water is given as close as possible to the trunk. When the first drops run through the substrate into the bowl underneath, the watering is stopped for the time being. After a few minutes, the watering is repeated. It takes so many repetitions until the substrate is well moistened. In the case of smaller bonsais, watering can alternatively be done through Dive take place. To do this, it is necessary to hold the planter in a bucket under water until no more air bubbles rise.

Bonsai watering can

tip: It makes sense to use a watering can with a shower head when watering. They do not rinse off the substrate as easily. On very dry days and with dry room air, it can be advisable to moisten the leaves with a plant sprayer in addition to watering. This can prevent dehydration and illnesses. However, spraying should not be done when there is strong sunlight.

Fertilize

The bonsai tree needs a constant supply of nutrients from spring to autumn. The easiest way to do this is to use special bonsai fertilizers from specialist retailers. Liquid fertilizer is added to the irrigation water and is distributed very evenly without any problems. Fertilizer in the form of beads or pellets is optionally placed directly on the substrate or in a fertilizer basket. The basket prevents birds or other animals from eating the fertilizer.

If solid fertilizers are chosen, the plant must then be watered urgently. On the one hand, this dissolves the nutrients and can be absorbed faster and better. On the other hand, it prevents chemical burns on the roots. Because with high concentrations of nutrients that hit the roots in concentrated form, damage can occur. It is still optimal to adjust the nutrient intake in the course of the annual growth phase. Depending on the season, special nutrient ratios should be taken into account:

  • Nitrogen-emphasized fertilization in spring, a ratio of NPK 12 + 6 + 6 is ideal
  • a balanced ratio of NPK 10 + 10 + 10 in summer
  • Reduce nitrogen in autumn, with NPK 3 + 10 + 10

Note: When dosing, attention should be paid to the manufacturer's instructions in order to avoid insufficient supply or over-fertilization.

Cut

The regular one Waste ensures that the bonsai gets its characteristic shape. In the case of blends, a distinction is made between measures for maintenance and measures for shaping. Knowledge of the various forms and techniques fills entire books. If you only want to keep bonsai as a hobby, you will find the basic rules here.

When pruning deciduous trees, you should remove any branches that grow inward or that cross each other. Conifers do not cut, but pluck with your fingers. In both cases, you should also remove damaged or dried out parts of the plant.

For the design cut or shape cut, the bonsai tree should be at eye level and accessible from all sides. The following tips will help you proceed further:

  • Choose a template that you want to use and that is best used as an image for orientation
  • Cut off any protruding branches as close as possible to the trunk
  • Carry out clippings in spring or after flowering
  • Use concave pliers for thick twigs to allow the cut wounds to dry faster and to reduce the risk of germs entering
Bonsai cut

tip: Special cutting tools for bonsai trees are recommended for cutting. Bonsai scissors and concave tongs are part of the basic equipment for beginners. It is also important to keep tools clean to prevent disease transmission.

Wire bonsai trees

Growing a bonsai as a beginner can be tricky. However, the wiring and bending of the branches is comparatively easy if the appropriate knowledge is available. The following guide can help:

  1. Choose aluminum wire that is one-third the diameter of the branch.
  2. Cut pieces of wire to the appropriate length so that they extend from the trunk to the end of the branch.
  3. Starting from the trunk, wrap the wire in a spiral around the branch.
  4. Slowly bend the branch and wire into the shape you want. Be careful not to bend or break the branch too much.
  5. If you bend several branches, the wires on the trunk must not cross or lie on top of each other.

Wire bonsai

Overwinter

When wintering, the bonsai trees must be divided into two categories: hardy plant species and tropical plant species. You should bring the tropical representatives into the house at the latest when the temperatures drop below 15 ° C. A bright location close to the window is suitable as winter quarters. The following points must be observed during maintenance:

  • Use a plant lamp as well, as there is often not enough light in winter
  • Water as usual as soon as the soil dries out
  • If the room air is dry, also spray the foliage
  • Stop fertilizing in autumn
  • Check the plant regularly for diseases and pests

Hardy bonsai trees can be overwintered in different ways. On the one hand, it is possible to leave them outdoors. However, you then have to protect the roots accordingly. Various options are available for this:

Dig in

The bucket is buried directly in the earth and the root disc is covered from above with brushwood and straw.

Wrapping

If the planter is too big to simply dig it in and dig it up again in spring, or if there is no garden, you should insulate the container on all sides. It is placed on a styrofoam plate or pallet to protect it from frost on the ground. You should also wrap the planter with garden fleece, bubble wrap, jute or other insulating materials. You should wrap in multiple layers in order to achieve the highest possible protection.

Insulation in the box

It makes sense for smaller bonsai to put them in a box or box and then fill the container with insulating materials. Again, straw, styrofoam, but also fleece are suitable.

On frost-free days, you should also check the moisture content of the soil in the free-standing bonsai trees and water them if necessary. Alternatively, you can also bring the plants indoors. Here they should be light and cool but frost-free at temperatures around 10 ° C.

Repot and substrate

A substrate change should take place about every two years in the spring after wintering. The repotting in a larger planter only has to be done when the soil is almost completely rooted. Special bonsai soil is recommended as a substrate.

tip: To reduce the frequency of watering, you can increase the amount of humus in the earth and reduce the amount of fine-grained gravel. This allows the substrate to store more water.

Pine bonsai

Diseases, pests and care mistakes

Above all Care errors are problematic as they weaken the bonsai tree and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Often they are:

wrong location

If the crop receives too little light, the growth is reduced. If there is too much light, however, the leaves can burn.

improper watering and incorrect humidity

A lack of liquid causes it to dry out, while waterlogging causes rot and mold. Water that is too hard and therefore too calcareous can interfere with the absorption of nutrients. Water that is too cold can trigger a cold shock that negatively affects growth.

Mistakes in fertilizing

Too little or too many nutrients also affect growth. In addition, if the fertilizer is not distributed, chemical burns can occur on the roots.

unfavorable blending

If you cut the bonsai tree too strongly or incorrectly, the whole plant will be weakened. In addition, interfaces that are too large can mean that diseases or pests can spread better, or that the crop becomes infected.

wrong substrate

If the substrate is not loose and permeable enough, this can promote waterlogging and the roots can rot - initially unnoticed. This also promotes mold growth on the earth.

overwintering too warm

If the plant is too warm during winter, there is a wrong relationship between temperature and incidence of light. As a solution, we recommend a plant lamp or keeping the plant cooler.

The diseases and pests that can occur on the bonsai depend on the respective plant species. Therefore, there can be no general information on this.

Sign up to our newsletter

Pellentesque dui, non felis. Maecenas male