Brown leaves / leaf tips on hostas: what to do?

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Brown leaves on hostas

table of contents

  • Suboptimal location
  • Sun
  • Sun shock
  • Bad plant neighbor
  • humidity
  • Lack of water
  • Overwatering
  • Snail damage
  • Leaf spot disease

If hostas have brown leaves or leaf tips, this can have various causes. In most cases, action is required to prevent serious consequential damage.

Suboptimal location

In most cases, a brown leaf or leaf tip is based on a location that does not meet the requirements of the hostas. Here it is important to find a remedy quickly, because there is a risk of death, if not swiftly for ideal location conditions is taken care of.

Sun

Hostas feel most comfortable in penumbra. If they are too sunny or even get the blazing midday sun, this quickly becomes apparent sunburn. This goes hand in hand with browning leaves, whereby it usually begins at the leaf tips of the hostas. A drying out over the whole leaf and in the worst case over the whole plant follows in the further course.

remedy

  • Immediately take affected hostas out of the sun
  • Transplant / relocate in a partially shaded place
  • East-facing location is ideal
  • Cut off dried and brown leaves at the end of the stem
  • Ensure sufficient humidity (in acute cases spray with lime-free water - this cools the plant)

Note: Hostas with blue foliage do not react to sunburn with brown leaves, but they "fade" and form an unspectacular green. But that doesn't change the fact that they are equally threatened with death if they are not transplanted / relocated out of the sun to a partially shaded location.

Withered hosta leaves

Sun shock

We speak of a “sun shock” when a hosta suddenly gets too much sun and warmth after wintering. Will the host after wintering in a cool place in the house or in a shady, sheltered place When exposed to warm sun in the garden for a long or permanent period of time, the foliage can turn brown to dye. This is because it takes some getting used to the warm sun. Therefore, the following should be done when changing location in spring:

  • Place the host outside in partial shade for a maximum of an hour for a week
  • Second week: put in the sun for one hour a day (in the morning when the sun's power is still low)
  • Third week: Increase solar time to two and finally to three hours
  • Never stand in the blazing midday sun
  • Fourth week: can remain in partial shade in a permanent location

Bad plant neighbor

If the host is in the garden bed next to a plant that also has a continuous need for water, it can become one competitor come, in which the neighboring plant removes the water in the soil. This is often the case with trees in the immediate vicinity. This creates an ideal condition for drying out, which is accompanied by brown leaf tips and leaves on the hostas. Another location is the only solution to the problem if the watering can is not to be used more often.

humidity

Often the reason for brown foliage is insufficient water requirements. Hostas need moderate moisture throughout - even in winter. They react quickly to drought with brown leaf tips and in extreme drought the foliage dries completely. But too much water is harmful too. Here the foliage usually begins to turn yellow before all parts of the plant rot and turn brown.

Lack of water

The most common times for brown leaves on hostas due to lack of water are given in midsummer and during dry winter days. If brown leaf spots appear, the must be checked Soil moisture absolutely necessary. If the soil is too dry, under no circumstances should it be poured onto it in moderation.

Moisture test

  • Press moderately hard into the surface of the earth with your thumb
  • If the soil can be pushed in about two centimeters without any problems: do not water
  • If the soil can be pressed in by less than two centimeters: it has to be poured

Watering after drying:

  • "First aid": give the normal watering amount in three to four servings distributed over the day (less, but watering more often)
  • From the second week onwards, slowly increase the frequency of watering and individual watering quantities
  • Always pour irrigation water in stages and only pour in when the previous water has sunk (protects against overwatering)
  • Carry out a moisture test before every watering
  • Water mornings and evenings in summer (never in hot midday sun)
  • Water in winter only at frost-free temperatures and on dry days
Brown leaves on hostas

tip: Brown plant dyes are a sign that tissue has died or is in the process of doing so. This is no longer generated, but continues to deprive the hostas of nutrients and energy, which disrupts growth. It is therefore advisable to quickly remove any leaves that have turned brown.

Overwatering

Overwatering occurs when a hosta is permanently in the water (waterlogging) or is watered too much. Waterlogging occurs when the soil is too dense / impermeable to water. Overwatering is at high risk for a Putrefactionthat, in the worst case, lets hostilities die.

Detecting overhydration:

  • Leaves hang more and more (lose stability)
  • Leaves first turn yellow and sag to the ground
  • Stems are severely softened
  • When rot, a musty smell rises from the earth
  • Mold spores may be visible on parts of plants and / or on the surface of the earth
  • Final stage: the leaves and stems of the hostas turn brown

Remedy:

  • Let the soil dry off immediately - no watering - ideally protect it from rain
  • Remove yellow or brown leaves immediately
  • If there is any suspicion of rot, dig the soil so far that the roots are visible, but not loosened
  • Leave the planting site open for one or two days to allow air to dry out
  • Replace excavated soil for dry, fresh and nutrient-rich soil
  • Do not water again until the surface of the earth has dried up (see "Lack of water - moisture test")
  • When rotted, transplant potted plants into fresh substrate
  • Slightly shorten the roots before transplanting and separate the sodden and moldy parts of the roots
  • After repotting, enclose the container including the plant with a translucent bag / film (promotes root growth)
  • Remove the foil / bag for 30 to 45 minutes every day to exchange air
  • Pay attention to drainage or create a new one, if not available (requires planting out)

Snail damage

The hosta is one of the snail's delicacies. You can eat them bald within a very short time, but you can also just eat them. For the latter, brown spots on leaf tips and leaf margins or inside the leaf in combination with feeding holes are typical signs of a snail infestation on hostas. The only thing that helps here is quickly collecting the snails and protecting them from further damage caused by eating:

  • Setting up snail traps
  • Building a snail fence
  • Distribute with scents - for example with neighboring plants thyme and lavender

Eating snails on hostas

Leaf spot disease

When hostas suffer from leaf blotch disease, this is particularly evident in the form of brown, rust-colored stains on the leaves, which in the course of time spread over them completely. Yellow discoloration can also occur. Hostas are prone to this fungal disease because they prefer continuous moisture, which creates optimal conditions for fungal infections.

The disease can often not be got under control. Suitable home remedies are not available. The rescue of an affected hosta can at least be attempted with the following control strategies:

  • Radical cut
  • Use of broad spectrum fungicides
  • Cut off the infected leaves and give plenty of pesticides to strengthen them

tip: Various home remedies are suitable for strengthening the hostas. Cold, dried coffee grounds are an ideal fertilizer to increase resistance.