Instructions: this is how you lay pond liner without creases

The foils all have advantages and disadvantages, there is no such thing as an absolutely perfect one where everything fits. If the price is right, there is certainly a shortcoming and if almost everything fits, the film is extremely expensive. Often the "golden" mean is chosen, the film that is most environmentally friendly and reasonably easy to lay and repair and not quite as expensive. In any case, you should always get good advice. It is important that it does not contain any recycled film. Toxins can often be found in it. The deeper such a pond, the thicker the liner has to be to withstand the great pressure. In addition, a layer of sand is important, which protects the foil, as well as a fleece, which is laid under the foil.

Different materials

PVC film (polyvinyl chloride)

• Most frequently used pond liner
• Very soft, flexible material, high elasticity, high resilience
• Best price
• Can be processed very well in warm temperatures, also glued
• Ideal for small and medium-sized ponds, also for complex pond shapes
• Tends to wrinkle, but so do other foils
• Lifespan up to 20 years (with good workmanship)
• Does not tolerate solar radiation and should therefore be well covered everywhere
• Available in several colors, black, brown, olive, blue, beige
• In the past, it often contained plasticizers, as well as stabilizers and chlorine. Better to find out what's in it today.

PE film (polyethylene)

• Environmentally friendly, recyclable
• More expensive
• About 30 percent lighter than PVC
• UV resistant
• Favorable for streams and shallow waters
• Larger sheet widths available, which means that they can often be laid in one piece
• Inflexible, quite stiff, therefore more difficult to work with
• Work with hot air
• Not flexible enough for small ponds

EPDM film (ethylene propylene diene monomer)

• Made of synthetic rubber
• Good processing options
• Also for large ponds
• High elasticity and tear resistance
• Very UV resistant
• Expensive
• Fish and plant friendly
• Cold and heat resistant, from –40 to + 40 ° C
• Ideal for difficult ponds
• Longest life
• In black, olive and sand colors
• Subsequent wrinkling possible
• Damage can only be repaired by vulcanization

PVC pond liner is best to lay. It is also the most popular and most widely used slide. It is important to only lay them at temperatures above 15 ° C. Then the film becomes more flexible and can be easily processed.

Lay the pond liner without creases

Laying pond liner without creases is particularly important for koi and bathing ponds. This enables uncomplicated maintenance. It is often necessary that pipes and technology can also be installed. Particularly important with the

Laying the pond liner is the right subsurface. Pointed stones and roots must not come into contact with the foil. This is why a bed of sand above the ground is ideal. A protective fleece should definitely be laid over this. Both measures allow uncomplicated access to the pond later. The pond can easily be entered without damaging the liner.
Preparations

1. Outline the outline of the pond. The best way to do this is to use sand, thick cord, sawdust or the like
2. Dig the pond. Clearly delimit different terraces (swamp zone, shallow and deep water zone)
3. Solidify all areas

Spread a layer of sand

Work thoroughly. Stone should be sorted out now in order not to be able to cause any damage later. The sand can also be evenly distributed with a rake or use a long board or large spirit level.

Lay out protective fleece

1. The fleece must be attached to the edges so that it does not slip when the pond liner is rolled out.
2.  Do not use any sharp or pointed objects to attach, which could damage the film

Lay the pond liner

1. Calculating the amount - add the pond length and pond width, plus double the pond depth and two times 50 cm for the edge
2. Often the pond liner is delivered on a pallet, expertly folded. In order to be able to lay it without creases, it should be folded like a fan on the short side and rolled up on the long side.
   Tip: Wear appropriate footwear with rounded rubber soles in which no stones can get stuck. These could damage the pond liner and even press holes in it. If necessary, you prefer to work barefoot.
   
3. If possible, the pallet should be set down at a corner of the pond.
4. The pond liner is rolled out along the longer side of the pond.
5. Then unfold the fan-like folded foil into the pond pit. The layers are simply pulled apart. It is best to work with several helpers, depending on the size of the pond
6. Avoid tension and tensile loads at all costs.
7. Create cable ducts for electrical installations, water pipes for pumps and the like
8. If the film is laid out, you can see numerous small folds. These are to be pulled together towards the corners of the pond so that a larger fold is created. This is then folded away to the rear. It can also be glued to make it last.
9. Weigh down the edge of the film with stones, strips or plates.

Fill the pond slowly, only about a third

1. Press any wrinkles that may still be present on the substrate. The foil is pulled deeper into the pond from the edge, solely by the weight of the water.
2. Let the water stand for at least a day before continuing to work
3. Pond substrate or Spread pebbles on the steps
4. Continue filling with water

It is ideal to erect a capillary barrier so that you avoid water loss through the adjacent vegetation.

1. The easiest way to do this is through a small, 10 cm high hill around the pond.
2. Immediately behind this, a 10 cm deep trench is dug.
3. The pond fleece and the liner must be laid over the hill into the ditch.
4. The trench can be filled with river pebbles or other stones because of its appearance. There must be no connection between the water and the surrounding soil!

Conclusion
When laying pond liner, it depends a little on which liner is used and how thick and therefore how heavy it is. Small ponds are quite easy to make, with larger ponds it is better to get helpers. Today, pond liners are usually delivered in a package, they are already welded or glued, you no longer have to join the lanes yourself as in the past. That makes things a lot easier. The subsurface is very important for the pond liners. Stones and roots can damage the film from the outside, especially if water is let in. Depending on the volume of the pond, the water is very heavy. That is why the sand layer is important and so is the fleece. A few small wrinkles usually form, given solely by the shape of the pond. They are combined into one or two larger ones, which are then folded away to the rear. It's all very easy. The capillary barrier, which protects against water loss, is also important.