Whether Lulo, Solanum quitoense, Quitorange or Quito Orange - the plant from South America has many names and is still almost unknown in Europe. With the appropriate knowledge, care is extremely easy and the exotic fruits bring Variety on the menu and also contain valuable micronutrients that have a positive influence on health can have.
Location
The plants, which come from South America, originally grow in mountainous regions or higher areas. They are therefore comparatively robust and can withstand temperature fluctuations well. However, due to their height of one to three meters and their sensitivity to frost, a few points must be taken into account when choosing a location. These are:
- Avoid full sun but choose a light to partially shaded place
- Sheltered places with an almost constant temperature of around 20 ° C are well suited
- There must be sufficient free space in the height
Note: Due to the sensitivity to frost, a culture in the bucket should be preferred. Otherwise, even in regions with mild winters, the plants will only keep for one year and a harvest cannot be expected. The winter garden is therefore an ideal location for the plant.
Substrate
A loose, well drained and nutrient-rich substrate should be selected for the adult plants. For example, plant or vegetable soil with sand or coconut fibers are suitable for loosening. The mixing ratio should be 2: 1 - two parts of earth and one part of sand or coconut fibers.
plants
The Solanum quitoense can be planted directly outdoors after the last late frost. However, it is very sensitive to frost and must therefore be brought back into the house in autumn. If you want to plant the plant out, you should plant it with a pot or tub, this makes it easier to remove with the planter when the temperatures drop. However, due to the expected height of the quitorange, it is still easier to cultivate it in the bucket.
Bucket culture
The Lulo can ideally be cultivated in a tub. All that is required is a planter that is large and stable enough for the plant. We also recommend a plant trolley on which the tub and the plant can still be moved when the nightshade plant has reached an impressive height.
In the case of bucket culture, care must also be taken to ensure that there is an adequate supply of water and nutrients. Since the amount of substrate is comparatively small, it has to be watered and fertilized more often. It makes sense to support the plant both outdoors and in the tub. Experience has shown that three to
four plant sticks are a good choice for this.to water
Although the Lulo grows in its original home in mountainous regions, it is sensitive to lime. When watering, care should therefore be taken to ensure that the water is as soft as possible and therefore low in lime. Pond water and water from the aquarium, for example, are ideal - provided they do not contain any medication or other additives. Collected rainwater is also recommended.
If these variants are not available or if the amount of water is insufficient, tap water can also be used. If the water is hard, however, this should stand for at least a week so that the lime can settle on the ground. The sediment is then of course not used for watering. When watering the Quitorange it is also important to keep the substrate slightly moist, but to avoid waterlogging. Occasional drying of the earth is not a problem, but it is sensitive to waterlogging and the risk of rot increases.
Tip: A drainage layer in the bucket, for example pottery shards or coarse gravel, can reduce the risk of waterlogging and protect the roots from standing in the water.
Fertilize
The Quitorange is a heavy eater and therefore requires correspondingly large amounts of fertilizer. During the growth phase from April to September, fertilization can be carried out weekly or every two weeks. The intervals between the nutrient supply depend on the chosen remedy. Pond water and aquarium water can be used weekly. Also well suited are:
- well-rotted compost
- Vegetable fertilizer
- Tomato fertilizer
- Coffee and tea grounds
- Plant manure, for example from nettles
Alternatively, a slow release fertilizer can be used. In either case, however, it is important that a fertilizer is used for plants that are suitable for human consumption. Since the Solanum quitoense is a nightshade plant, which also includes tomatoes, for example, the same fertilizers can be used.
harvest
When the Naranjilla - as the Lulo is called in Spanish - has enough warmth and light all year round is supplied, is also watered appropriately and fertilized throughout, it can turn out to be extremely productive prove. In addition, a harvest can take place from May to October. The fruits are ripe for harvest when the peel is tender and easily vulnerable, gives way to pressure, looks smooth and can be plucked without any effort. However, you can also wait for the fruits to fall off by themselves. Then the health value is also highest.
Use of the fruits
The fruits of the lulo can be eaten raw. To do this, the pulp and seeds are simply spooned out of the shell. But they are also suitable for:- Juices and smoothies
- Jams, jams and jellies
- Fruit salads
- Cakes, pies and other baked goods
In any case, the bowl should not be processed or consumed at the same time.
Effect and ingredients
The fruits of Naranjilla are said to have an overall beneficial effect on the body and health, what due to the micronutrients it contains, such as vitamins, minerals and secondary plant substances are. In addition, the fruit is surprisingly low in calories and has an exotic taste that is reminiscent of a mixture of pineapple and strawberries. However, other specific effects are also ascribed to the fruits. Including:
- Strengthening the immune system
- Improve eyesight
- Relief from mood swings
- detoxification
- Improvement of the complexion
- Regulation of cholesterol levels
- Increase in bone strength
- Cancer prevention
- Speed up digestion
- Influence on heart health
To date, there is no scientific evidence for most of these influences. However, it has been examined and confirmed that the fruits of the Naranjilla are rich in antioxidants. The content of these healthy substances is highest when the fruits are ripe or when they fall off. Therefore, they should be consumed as quickly and fresh as possible and not stored for long.
Waste
The Solanum quitoense does not have to be blended regularly. However, it is best to remove damaged or dead plant parts, as these can increase the risk of disease, rot, and mold. In any case, clean, sharp cutting tools should be used for this. The blades of knives or scissors should be disinfected before and after use. In addition, the maintenance measure should be carried out on a dry day if possible so that the Cut surfaces close quickly and no entry portals for parasites or pathogens represent.
It is also possible to limit or reduce the height of the plant by cutting it off. Since the plants can grow up to three meters high, annual shortening can make sense. The trimming can be done in spring or autumn.
Overwinter
Since the quitorange thrives best at a temperature of 20 ° C and is sensitive to frost, it must be wintered indoors. On the one hand, constant temperatures and, on the other hand, sufficient light are important. If the temperatures outside drop to or below 20 ° C, the plants should be moved indoors. Here you need a bright place. The warmer they are, the more light they need. Since the sunlight is not sufficient even in a south-facing window in winter, plant lamps should be used.
Watering and fertilizing can be reduced slightly during the winter. However, the substrate should never dry out completely. In addition, nutrients should continue to be supplied. It makes sense to increase the intervals between fertilizers to once a month.
Repot
Repotting or changing the substrate is recommended with the Lulo once a year. It is best done in spring when the first new shoots are growing. On the one hand, this provides the plant with nutrients. On the other hand, this reduces the risk of an infestation with parasites or pathogens. The substrate mixture described above, consisting of two parts of earth and one part of sand or coconut fibers, is used. The old substrate should be thoroughly but carefully removed from the roots. Experience has shown that it also makes sense to add well-rotted compost or a long-term fertilizer from the trade to the soil.
Propagation and cultivation
The Solanum quitoense is only very rarely available in stores as a plant, but seeds are very easy to find, at least online.
Seeds
If you want to use these or seeds from the fruits for cultivation, you should do the following
proceed:1. Provide planters with a drainage layer of gravel or potsherds and fill them with potting soil. Alternatively, coconut fibers can also be used.
2. Soak the seeds in water for a day. If the seeds were obtained directly from fruits, they should be thoroughly separated from pulp residues before cultivation and after soaking. Otherwise, mold could form. In addition, they can be dried and stored in a cool, dark and dry place over the winter and set in the spring.
3. The seeds are placed on the ground at a distance of three to five centimeters and only lightly covered with substrate.
4. The substrate is moistened well by a plant sprayer with soft, lime-free water, but should not be wet. Then the cultivation vessel is placed in a light and warm place.
5. The first shoots should appear after two to three weeks. When the young plants have reached a height of 20 to 30 centimeters, they can be placed in individual pots or tubs. It is important that there is also a change to nutrient-rich soil.
Cuttings
1. In spring, shoot tips with a length of 15 to 20 centimeters are cut off.
2. The shoots are placed in water until they form roots, or placed directly in potting soil.
3. When roots form in water, the cuttings are placed in nutrient-rich and loose soil after two to three weeks. When roots form directly in the soil, the substrate must be kept slightly moist throughout. Propagation by cuttings takes less time and effort than growing from seeds. However, you must be very careful that the substrate does not become too dry or too moist and that it does not form mold.
Typical care errors, pests and diseases
The Naranjilla is a comparatively easy plant to care for, but some errors can still occur during cultivation. In addition, diseases and pests can become problematic. These potential hazards are:
Wrong pouring
Drought, hard water or waterlogging - mistakes when watering become noticeable in dried up leaves, stains or rot. In addition, growth can be reduced and the fruits may fall off prematurely. Tempered, soft water in sufficient quantities and a drainage in the bucket are crucial and the best prevention against these problems.
Lack of fertilization
A lack of nutrients can also cause various problems. Including discoloration of the leaves, reduced growth, low yield and increased susceptibility to diseases. The use of a long-term fertilizer as well as the use of natural fertilizers or vegetable fertilizers prevents these deficiency symptoms.
Fungal diseases
On the one hand, fungal diseases can arise from the fact that the plant is exposed to excessive humidity and is not adequately ventilated. A lack of ventilation comes about, for example, because the plants are too close to other plants or have too dense foliage. However, prolonged drought can also make the lulo susceptible to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew. The best prevention consists in turn of an adapted and coordinated care. If there are fungal deposits, discoloration or other damage to the plant, the exact disease should first be determined and then an appropriate fungicide should be used.
Nematodes
Nematodes are roundworms and can be quite useful. But if their numbers get out of hand, they can harm the Naranjilla. Deformations on the leaves and in the root area as well as irregular growth, wilting and shrinking of the plant can be possible consequences. The best prevention is the annual change of substrate. If an infestation has already occurred, an immediate change of the soil and agents from the specialist trade can help to save the plant. Damaged parts of the plant should be removed and disposed of or destroyed. Under no circumstances should the plant parts be placed on the compost, as the nematodes could then spread to other areas.