In this way, very individual panels can be produced. They are no different to laying than purchased panels. The basis for the pavement slabs are cement and sand, in a ratio of 1: 3 (approx.). Then there is water. If you want to make decorations, you also need beautiful stones or other decorative materials, which I will go into later.
Concrete mix
Concrete is a natural building material and consists of cement, water and aggregates such as gravel or sand, also known as aggregates. Fine-grain dry concrete is used for fine work. A smooth surface is achieved with repair mortar. Coarse-grained dry concrete looks a bit rougher. The decisive factor is simply the grain size of the dry concrete mix. The smaller the largest grain contained, the smoother the surface of the paving slab. It is easiest to use ready-mixed dry concrete mass from the hardware store. It is usually offered in 25 kg bags. Mixed with 4 liters of water, a sack makes about 14 kg of concrete. If you want to use stronger concrete, which is certainly cheap with paving slabs, you use a little less water. It is important that the consistency remains easy to work with. To test this, you form a small ball with your hands. It must not fall apart. If you want to mix the mixture yourself, you have to mix three parts of aggregate and one part of cement and then add enough water to achieve the right consistency.
preparation
Since it is a rather dirty job, a suitable workplace should be created, preferably in the garden. It is best to use a large board as a base. Alternatively, a tarpaulin is also suitable.
Tip: Concrete is corrosive. Therefore it is better to put on soft rubber gloves. These have to fit well so that you can still feel good while working. If you want to design patterns, you have to pay close attention to the accuracy of fit.
Make a mold
The easiest way is to use a square flower coaster for planters. These plastic coasters have the right height and also fit the shape. However, it is also not difficult to make a simple square frame out of slats. If you want to make a lot of paving slabs,
should work with more than one shape, otherwise this is an endless project. If you just want to design a few decorative pavement slabs, a frame is sufficient. You make the plates one after the other, one every two to three days, so to speak. In principle, a frame without a bottom is sufficient. Then a smooth, firm surface must be used as the floor.Mix concrete
The concrete is mixed together as described above. It is best to use a large bucket or tub for this. Smaller quantities to try can be mixed with a trowel or spatula. For larger items, it is best to use a mixer attachment for a drill or cordless screwdriver for mixing. You only mix as much concrete as you can use. It is better to mix less and rework quickly than to have too much and not know where to go.
Reinforce sidewalk slabs
Since pavement slabs are subject to greater loads, it can make sense to install reinforcement or reinforcement. Poultry nets or reinforcing steel bars can be used for this. Normally, however, this is not necessary. Place the appropriate reinforcements in the frame before pouring the concrete.
Pour in concrete
The ready-mixed concrete is now poured into the mold. The surface becomes smoother if you tap or shake the corners of the form. In this way, any air bubbles that may be present also come out of the mass.
Let the concrete dry
The concrete must now harden. You need a little patience for that. The shape should not be taken off too early. It should harden for at least 24 hours, or a little longer for thick panels. If concrete dries too quickly, it can crack. It is therefore advisable to leave the panels to dry in the shade and not in the sun.
Eliminate bumps
Unevenness on the edges or the patterns can be sanded off with a stone or a file.
Create patterns
If you don't want simple, simple paving slabs, you can provide some with patterns. These loosen up the area.
Tip: Whatever is placed on the concrete and pressed into it to create a pattern has to be brushed with oil
Here are some suggestions:
- Door mats made of rubber (look like the ones made of wrought iron material). Mostly they have a pattern of ornaments. The mats can be cut to fit the size. Of course, it is ideal to first cut the mat as desired and then to build a shape for the panels for this exact size. Oil the rubber mat and then press it evenly into the concrete. The mat can be removed again after about 2 days. The oil should remove it easily.
- A stable leaf from the garden gives it a great pattern. To do this, brush or spray a leaf of ivy or another stable leaf with oil from below. The underside is used for the pattern, because the leaf veins are more pronounced there. The sheet is placed with the oiled side on the poured concrete, if possible so that a good picture results. Lightly press. To get a clearer impression, you can put a few small stones on the sheet to weigh it down. This will make the print clearer. After 2 days, the sheet can be removed and the plate can be shaped. The imprint can then be clearly seen.
- In principle, a wide variety of objects can be used to create a relief. Coasters made of silicone or plastic are also very suitable. There are very beautiful flower shapes.
- Those who have the time and leisure can scour the World Wide Web. Every now and then, relief molds are offered there, directly for the casting of pavement slabs or Stepping stones. There are Celtic patterns, dragonflies and beetles, flowers, butterflies, dog or cat paw prints and a lot more.
Lay concrete paving slabs
Slabs are best laid on an unbound foundation. This allows rainwater to run off and settlement can be compensated for without great effort. It is therefore important to have an appropriate substructure. Experts also recommend placing curbs so that the slabs cannot slide sideways and the path becomes unstable. In addition to the plates themselves, a few things are needed, e.g. B. Gravel or antifreeze gravel (grain size 0/32), sand or gravel bedding and joint sand.
Create substructure
First the planned route is marked out. Immediately think of the size of the panels and mark them out so that as little or no cutting measures as possible are necessary. Then the space for the "bed" is excavated. How deep you have to make this excavation depends on the thickness of the slabs, the sand layer and the gravel base layer. In sandy soils, 20 cm is usually sufficient; in loam and clay soils, 40 cm is better. Once the earth has been excavated, the subsoil is compacted. The best way to do this is to use a vibrator, a vibrating plate. Such a device can be borrowed. A layer of crushed stone or antifreeze gravel is placed on the compacted subsurface. It is best not to fill everything up right away, but instead keep condensing in between and working your way up layer by layer. Always guide the vibrating plate lengthways and crossways. It is important that a slight slope of 2% is incorporated, always leading away from the house, so that rain and irrigation water can run off. About the difference in altitude
to determine the 2%, a cord is stretched between posts at the edge of the path, which must have the height that the respective layer must have at the end. Tension the cord on both sides of the path. Tension 2 cm per meter lower on one side. The gravel bedding or sand with the appropriate grain size, i.e. coarse, is placed on the base course. This layer is 3 to 5 cm. Here, too, it has to be compacted, so the plate compactor is used. It is important to have a uniform, smooth surface on which the panels can be laid.Lay the panels
As soon as the substructure is ready, the panels can be laid. You always work from the relocated place forward. It is best to start the first row of stones on a solid edge, e.g. B. on a brick wall or wall. A stretched cord or a straight edge help to control the alignment of the rows of stones, both in width and in height and of course in the planned direction. The panels are laid piece by piece on the prepared substrate, along the entire first row. Leave a gap of about 3 mm between them. Joint holders that guarantee even spacing can be obtained from retailers. The panels are easily brought into position with the rubber mallet. The second row is best started with a paving slab cut in half. This results in a solid association. At the end, half a slab is also laid, at least if the path is uniform. Use an angle grinder with a cutting disc or a cutting table to cut the panels. This can be borrowed. So you go through row by row, always shifting every second row, this creates a uniform picture. In the case of rectangular pavement slabs, the pattern can be divided into thirds, i.e. every third row can be designed like the first. Only move the plates by a third. At the end, the entire surface is shaken off again. It is important to use a rubber mat, otherwise the concrete slabs can break or break. Parts break off. Joint sand is then scattered along the way and swept into the cracks between the panels with a broom. Then let water run over everything. The sand slips and the cracks have to be filled again. If necessary, these two steps have to be repeated until all gaps are closed with sand. The rest of the sand is swept away.
Tip: Experts recommend placing curbs at the edges of the path to keep the slabs in shape. It also prevents plants from growing into the joints from adjacent beds or lawns. Curbs are usually set in concrete. You set them before you start building the substructure, i.e. when the depth of the path has been excavated.
Conclusion
Creating your very own path is an interesting task, albeit a bit time-consuming. But you can save a lot of money for this. Simple pavement slabs are very easy to make, but patterned ones are not difficult either. Good ideas are important. Good preparation is crucial for creating the path. It starts with the construction of the sub-floor for the panels and the selection of a laying pattern. This shouldn't be too complicated for beginners. Otherwise, the slope must be observed so that rainwater can run off. It is also useful to delimit the route, e.g. B. through curbs.
