Roses can delight the gardener with their bloom. However, this only applies if they are cut correctly. Unkempt roses become lazy and old. The sticks look messy and provide a good base for pests or diseases. There are a few things to consider when pruning roses, but it is still worthwhile to dare to tackle the task.
General information on cutting back
- Use sharp, preferably disinfected tools
- Disinfect the tool when changing plants
- The right time for most varieties is in spring when forsythia is in bloom
- Withdrawn is regularly removed, thus avoiding unnecessary seed formation
- Start the cut at an angle over the outward-facing bud
- dead wood is removed at the base
- cut back diseased wood until it is healthy
- Regular pruning protects against aging and maintains flowering potential
- Strong pruning promotes strong new growth, weak pruning leads to weak new growth
- each type of rose is treated individually
- Once flowering varieties cut after flowering
tool
It is best to use special rose scissors to cut the roses. However, it is also possible to use a different pair of secateurs. A handsaw is necessary for stronger shoots, and maybe also one for climbing roses
Telescopic handle. Another important tool is sturdy gloves that the thorns of the rose cannot penetrate.Floribunda roses
They can be cut back the most forcefully. Shoots about 15 to 20 cm in length remain on the hive. If it is a slow-growing variety, three healthy shoots with three eyes should remain on the stick. If the variety is one of the strong-growing varieties, 5 shoots can remain on the plant. There should be 5 buds on each of the shoots. The goal of a bed rose cut is a compact, blooming rose with a bushy character. If the shoots stay too long, the plant will literally fall apart and appear bare.
Hybrid Tea Roses
These roses can also be cut back vigorously. Slow growing varieties need three to four shoots, vigorous hybrid tea roses need five to six. Strong shoots are cut back to five buds, weak ones to three. The goal is a rose with long, straight flower stems. Many branches should therefore be avoided. For older examples of hybrid or bed roses, an old, perennial shoot is always removed at the base in order to stimulate the plant to sprout again.
Tip: Weak, too thin shoots are also removed so that stronger growth is stimulated.
Multiple flowering shrub roses
They are blended less severely. In addition, one cut in summer is sufficient for single-flowering varieties. Shrub roses bloom on annual wood, which is formed on shoots from the previous year. Since shrub roses can get very tall, up to 300 cm, some strong, older shoots are necessary in the plant to support them. Similar to the pruning of the fruit tree, the best and strongest five shoots are selected, these form the basic structure of the rose.
All other long shoots are removed at the base, the same applies to overaged or weak shoots that did not produce many flowers in the previous year.
The branches on the main shoots are cut back to three to five buds, on which the flower shoots then form.
Single flowering shrub roses
They are basically treated like other shrub roses. However, the cut is made in summer after flowering. They are also not cut back too much, as they will bloom on perennial wood. For older specimens (from about 5 years old) an old, thick branch just above the ground is completely removed to encourage new growth of the rose.
Tip: Old wood can be recognized by the color of the bark. It changes from green to yellow-brown.
Small shrub roses
In addition to the large shrub roses, there are also varieties that can be used as ground cover. These are particularly easy to care for and are rarely cut. The main focus is on cutting dead or diseased wood. Shoots that are too dense are also removed. A vigorous pruning should be done about every 5 years.
Climbing roses
Climbing roses are also best cut in summer, depending on their size, they are shortened by about a third. Since they usually grow on a trellis, it is primarily those shoots that are removed that grow in the wrong direction and cannot be trained. Along the main shoots, all secondary shoots are cut back to three to five buds. Obsolete
Shoots should be removed at the base if there is a young shoot that can be opened up. The relationship between young wood and old should be roughly balanced.Standard roses
These little trees should also be treated like trees. When cutting, a loose, light-flooded and airy crown is the goal. The right time is also here in spring, when it comes to multiple-flowering varieties. The cutting of single-flowering tall stems takes place after flowering. Standard roses can be cut naturally or shaped when they are cut back. However, spherical shapes appear artificial. When pruning roses, around a third of the plant is taken back. Too dense and crossing or obstructing shoots are removed.
avoid errors
Care is taken to proceed evenly when pruning roses. If shoots of different lengths remain on the rose, it can happen that they sprout and continue to grow to different degrees. The rose bush gets a misshapen appearance. It is also avoided to prune over inwardly growing buds. The urges would eventually interfere with each other. A straight, clean cut is important, which is why the tool should definitely be very sharp. The more unclean the cut, the larger the entry point for germs.
Tip: However, wild shoots at the base of the plant are not cut, they are best torn out so that new ones do not develop in the same place. Wild shoots can be recognized by the fact that they grow out below the refinement point.
Dispose of clippings
If the roses are healthy, the clippings can be used in the garden. It can be placed in the bottom layer of hill beds or raised beds. Shredded, it serves as a mulch for beds or is disposed of in the compost. It is different with sick roses. If possible, these should be disposed of outside the garden. If available, cuttings can be put in the organic waste bin or they end up in the residual waste.
