Watering, fertilizing, cutting, wintering and more

Roses should only be watered when it is dry for a long period of time. However, this should be done in such a way that the leaves do not get wet. Rose petals that are moist for a long time are often affected by sooty, but also by Rose rust infested. From September onwards you should stop watering roses so that the shoots become lignified and frost-hardy.

Roses belong to the heavily consuming plants, which is why fertilization and thus a regular supply of nutrients is essential. The first fertilization takes place in March, when you spread compost or other humus substances between the roses about one or two fingers and work them flat into the soil. At the same time you provide the plant with an organic one Complete fertilizer, for example a good one Rose fertilizer.(€ 11.49 at Amazon *) Highly nitrogenous fertilizers such as blue corn are not very suitable for roses, as they stimulate growth but suppress flowering. In June, the spring fertilization is finally repeated, unless you do one from the start

Slow release fertilizer have used.

This has been particularly the case in dry regions Mulching proven, in which an approximately ten centimeter thick layer of lawn clippings is applied between the roses. This means that there is no need to loosen the soil, and the soil under the mulch cover remains well moist and you save too frequent watering. However, if bark mulch is used for mulching, you should also provide nitrogen in organic or mineral form. This is supposed to cover the needs of the soil organisms that would otherwise pull it out of the soil. As a result, the roses suffer from nitrogen deprivation.

Most roses are cut back when the forsythia is in bloom, i.e. towards the end of March to the beginning of April. Remove all thin and frozen shoots completely, while the remaining ones are taken back to about three to four eyes - this corresponds to a length of about 20 centimeters. With vigorously growing varieties, a few more buds can be left. In general, at least half of the shoot length is cut away, but be careful: how much the cut is and whether it is even allowed to cut (some types of roses are only thinned out!) depends on the variety different.

The stronger the pruning, the stronger the new growth

The same rule of thumb applies to roses as to fruit trees: the more the pruning is done, the more the new shoots take place. From the few remaining buds, only a few, but particularly long and strong shoots emerge. On the other hand, a weak pruning that leaves many eyes only results in a weak shoot: There are numerous, but only short, shoots. As a result, hybrid tea roses that are supposed to develop particularly long shoots should be cut back vigorously; Bouquet roses, on the other hand, are weaker so that the bushes do not get too tall.

Cut floribunda roses

In the case of floribunda, it is usually sufficient if all weak and dry shoots are removed and the remaining ones are only shortened by about a quarter to a third of their length. Should the lower parts become bald over the years and stop blooming, they will be strongly rejuvenated, i. H. cut back into the old wood.

Cut shrub and wild roses

Shrub roses and wild roses that grow like a shrub are only thinned out, i. H. They remove dry and very thin shoots, as well as those that are too close together. The natural shape of the shrub should be retained, as this will only make the bushes all the more beautiful. Only in the case of shrub rose varieties with very long, annual shoots, these are shortened by half. The withered parts of wild roses do not need to be removed, as these species develop rose hips. With shrub roses that bloom several times as well as with Climbing roses However, this work must not be overlooked, otherwise fruit set will occur and the second flower will turn out only very weakly.

Cutting climbing roses

Climbing roses are also only thinned out if possible. Only newly planted climbing roses are cut by at least half. Older shoots, recognizable by the dark wood, are removed directly on the ground or, if strong young shoots have developed near the ground, they are put back on them. Overaged climbing roses can be cut back radically.

At the onset of heavy frosts, i.e. from around mid-November, climbing and bed roses are piled up about 20 centimeters high. To do this, pull the soil from the rose bed to the individual sticks with a hoe or bring a third to half a bucket to each plant Compost soil. Then it is covered with spruce branches. Tall rose stems and sensitive hybrid tea roses are well packed for the winter, preferably with jute or other breathable materials. Foil, on the other hand, is not very suitable.