It works with these methods

The vegetative propagation of the oleander is particularly easy if you do it annually when pruning Root any cuttings either in a glass of water or in lean soil. In principle, all shoots can be used as cuttings, provided they are at least 15 centimeters long. However, rooting works best with young, not yet lignified branches. These should be cut between June and September.

• Cut off the shoots just below a leaf knot.
• From there, the cutting forms roots and new shoots.
• Ideally, the cuttings are between 15 and 25 centimeters long
• and still have soft, green wood.
• The cut surface should be slightly sloping to make it easier for the cutting to absorb water.
• Use a sharp and clean knife for this.
• A pair of scissors, on the other hand, is unsuitable because you only squeeze the conductor paths with them.
• Remove the lower pairs of leaves, leaving only the top one.
• Place the cutting in a glass with fresh, lukewarm water.
• This should be changed daily.
• Put the jar in a bright and warm place,
• however, avoid direct sunlight.
• The first fine roots form after about four weeks.
• If there are enough roots, the plant can be planted in a humus-rich substrate.

Instead of a water glass, you can also put the cuttings in a lean one Growing substrate(€ 12.99 at Amazon *) set. However, keep the substrate evenly moist and ensure high humidity. You can achieve this by putting a disposable glass or a cut-off PET bottle over the cutting.

Works great on older plants: Share oleanders

Oleander grows very bushy and usually has three or even more strong main shoots. Oleanders are easy to divide the next time they are repotted by cutting through the roots so that each new plant receives at least one of these main shoots. Afterward plant the unique pieces each in new tubs. Oleander should be as early as possible in the year, yet before flower formation, be divided - it is best to do the procedure in April. Then the divided individual plants have enough opportunity to form new flowers and the flowering frenzy does not fail this season.

Oleanders in particular form seed pods if the dead shoots are not cut off. You can use these to obtain the seeds you need for breeding, but there is a high probability that the seedlings obtained from them will be different look like the mother plant - mutations and the emergence of unknown genetic material is not the exception in this type of reproduction, but the Rule. Since it doesn't get cold in winter in the oleander's home, there is no need to stratify the seeds. Instead, you can sow them right away. The best time for one sowing however, late winter or early spring, d. H. in February or March. The seeds germinate best in an indoor greenhouse in a light and warm location. However, do not lose patience if you still do not see any seedlings after several weeks: sometimes it takes a while.

• Use lean ones for cultivation Potting soil or coconut substrate ("Kokohum").
• Fill this into a shallow bowl with holes on the bottom,
• there any excess irrigation water can run off.
• Let the seeds soak for at least six hours before sowing.
• Use lukewarm water for this.
• Cover the seeds only very lightly with sieved earth,
• because oleander is a light germ.
• Keep the substrate evenly moist.
• An atomizer is particularly suitable for this.

The young plants can be converted into a nutrient-rich substrate as soon as they have developed at least one other pair of leaves in addition to the two cotyledons. Make sure that the seedlings do not sit too close to one another in the seedling tray, otherwise the entangle fine roots and you will not get the young plants into individual planters without damage transplanted.