Care tips for the Japanese maple Sangokaku

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Perfect in the bucket - beautiful in the bed - tips for choosing a location

With a height and width of 200 to 300 cm, Japanese maple with red bark is in top form in the bucket. If you choose a pot size of 7.5 to 10 liters, this volume is ideal for shallow roots. In contrast to its European Conspecifics Sangokaku favors a slightly acidic substrate with a pH value of 5.0 to 6.5. The following site conditions are recommended:

  • The most important criterion: a location sheltered from the wind so that the leaves do not turn brown in summer
  • Sunny to partially shaded location without the risk of accumulated heat in summer
  • Humic, loose and well-drained soil

also read

  • Maple is losing its bark - what's causing the problem?
  • Caring for maple properly - tips for care
  • Red maple - care, cutting, wintering

Like all Asian maples, the premium Sangokaku variety is sensitive to frost as a young plant, so spring is the best time to plant.

Modest care requirements - important aspects in a nutshell

In the right location, the workload for a maple with red bark is reduced to a minimum. The simple maintenance program in quick succession:

  • Keep the substrate or bedding soil constantly slightly moist
  • Apply liquid fertilizer monthly in the bucket from March to August
  • In the bed in spring or autumn, leaf compost and Horn shavings(€ 32.93 at Amazon *) administer
  • Cut only if needed in spring just before budding

Winter protection is very important in the care program for a Japanese maple Sangokaku. Buckets are given a winter coat made of bubble wrap, coconut or Garden fleece. A base made of wood protects the root ball from frost from below. In the bed, a thick layer of bark mulch takes on this function. In the first few years, a hood made of breathable fleece keeps cold wind and blazing winter sun off the red branches in the bed and tub.

Tips

If the bark turns red in autumn, the maple suffers from it Fungal attack. A typical symptom of red pustule disease are vermilion fruiting bodies that only appear at the end of the season. The pathogens are resistant to fungicides. So far, cutting back into healthy wood in September is the only known countermeasure with a prospect of success.