Planting cedar properly
Fall is the best time to have a cedar to plant. Before starting in the garden, put the root ball in a bucket of water. Now proceed in the following steps:
- The planting pit has twice the volume of the root ball
- A layer of gravel on the bottom Grit(€ 49.99 at Amazon *) or spread pottery shards as drainage
- The excavation with compost, bark humus, Horn shavings(€ 32.93 at Amazon *) and optimize leaf soil
- Drive a support post into the pit to place the tree next to it
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Finally, fill the pit with the soil mixture until the top of the bale is flush with the surface of the earth. Tread on the earth, connect the support post and tree with coconut tape and water. If you now cut back all branches by about a third, this plant cut will make a valuable contribution to vital branching.
Care tips
In terms of care, a cedar is frugal and undemanding. Watering is only necessary in periods of drought, if the natural amount of rain is insufficient. The same applies in winter, when the snow does not provide water for the evergreen tree. A young cedar gratefully accepts organic fertilizers such as compost or horse manure with horn shavings. In later years, the additional supply of nutrients is unnecessary. In its youth, the imposing tree also requires winter protection, because from -15 degrees Celsius there is a risk of frost damage. Only use scissors to tackle a harmoniously growing cedar in an emergency, for example to keep height growth in check. In early spring, cut off shoots that are too long so that a small piece of the fresh green remains. It is difficult for the tree to sprout out of old wood.
Which location is suitable?
Since a cedar only develops its winter hardiness in the course of the first 8-12 years, the location should primarily be sunny to partially shaded and protected. This caution is particularly directed against sharp easterly winds and intense winter sun, which can kill a young tree in the first few winters. With regard to the nature of the soil, a cedar favors sandy-dry and deep humus soil with a slightly acidic to alkaline pH value.
The correct planting distance
Various criteria play a role in evaluating the correct planting distance. The distance to the neighbor is of legal relevance, while the distance to buildings is for safety. Last but not least, the distance to neighboring plants needs to be treated adequately. In general, the following values apply to the mighty tree:
- Minimum distance from the tree to the neighbor and the street: 4 meters
- Minimum distance to building: half of the expected final height
- Distance to neighboring plants: half of the expected growth width
Since the limit distances in Germany are a matter for the federal states, only an average value can be given here. Please consult your local regulatory office to determine the exact value for your region.
What soil does the plant need?
A cedar accepts any good one Garden soilto spread their roots in it. The tree develops its optimum in this earth:
- Deeply loose and rich in nutrients
- Humus and sandy-loamy, without the risk of waterlogging
- Slightly acidic, neutral to alkaline pH value
If the soil at the chosen location does not have the ideal conditions, these can be easily created with the help of additives. Soil that is too heavy is optimized with sand and peat. Too sandy and dry substrate is ready after the incorporation of compost, foliage soil and bark humus to offer the imposing tree a home. In order to raise a pH value that is too low to a level that is tolerable for the tree, give vital lime regularly.
What is the best time to plant?
The majority of tree nurseries offer young cedars in containers, as in this case the planting time extends over the entire frost-free vegetation period. If you want to give the tree perfect starting conditions, choose a mild day in autumn. Since the soil temperatures are around 17-20 degrees Celsius in September / October, the young coniferous tree takes root vigorously and vigorously before the onset of winter.
When is the flowering time?
As a rule, a cedar will flower for the first time by the age of 30. This appears during the months of September and October, but hardly falls into eye. The cones resulting from the flowering are mature after 2 to 3 years, but remain on the tree for up to 10 years.
Cut cedar properly
The cedar has a beautiful, natural habit that does not require a topiary. Nevertheless, over the years the tree has assumed monstrous proportions, so that you cannot avoid pruning. Ideally, you should only prune a little each spring instead of doing a deep pruning every few years. Since the tree is extremely pruning, it is up to you to decide to what extent you prune. This procedure has proven itself in practice:
- Cut a cedar into shape in the spring before it sprouts
- A frost-free day with overcast weather is ideal
- Shorten branches that are too long with freshly sharpened scissors
- Avoid cutting into old wood, as it will be difficult for the tree to grow out of it
- Cut deadwood at the base
- Inward-facing or rubbing branches Astring cut off
The cedar receives an important cut immediately after planting. If you cut back the shoots by around 30 percent, the young tree will thank you with vital branches that lead to a particularly bushy habit.
Pour cedar
If the natural rainfall does not meet the water requirements of a cedar tree, it comes Garden hose for use. Don't wait for the tree to signal drought stress by shedding its needles. Check the soil with a thumb test in dry weather and water thoroughly and in good time. Small specimens in the bucket have a higher water requirement than a tree that stretches its roots in the ground to the groundwater.
Fertilize cedar properly
While a young cedar is still developing its root system, it is grateful for a serving of compost every 4 weeks. An older tree is self-sufficient in supplying itself with all the important nutrients. If you cultivate a dwarf variety in the bucket, apply a liquid fertilizer for green plants every 4 weeks from March to September.
Overwinter
As a cedar from temperatures below - 15 degrees Celsius in combination with an icy east wind We recommend the following in hard winters and in locations exposed to wind Protective measures:
- the Tree grate pile up with a 20-30 cm thick layer of leaves and brushwood
- Wrap the crown with thatch, jute ribbons or a straw mat
- Water the evergreen tree on frost-free days during winter
Before the first frost, planters are wrapped in bubble wrap, placed on wood and a breathable hood is placed over the crown.
Propagate cedar
Propagating a cedar tree by hand is only recommended for hobby gardeners with a very long patience. Both the sowing of seeds and the care of cuttings can take up to 3 years before a vigorous young plant develops. If you subject the seeds to a stratification, the germination process, which lasts for months, can be accelerated. It also has a forcing effect when the seeds are soaked in gibberellic acid. Cuttings root more quickly under a transparent cover that creates a warm, humid microclimate.
How do I transplant properly?
In the first 5 years, a cedar can still be transplanted without any problems. Start the project in the fall, as the tree is well rooted at this time. It succeeds in these steps:
- The root ball with the spade cut off in a radius of half to two thirds growth height
- Dig a generously sized trench, mix the soil with compost and fill it in again
- Water the tree regularly and extensively for over a year so that new fine roots form
The following year, you lift the tree out of the ground and put it back in the new location just as deep as before. A support post on the east side of the trunk provides the necessary stability while it is growing. Again, a regular water supply is of the utmost importance.
Does a cedar have what it takes to be a bonsai?
The cedar has proven to be a prime example of a magnificent outdoor bonsai. Their frugal cut tolerance and broad location amplitude contribute significantly to this qualification. Creative bonsai gardeners usually opt for a strictly upright or freely upright design. With regard to care, the following aspects must be taken into account:
- Water regularly during the growing season
- Reduce the water supply a little in winter
- Liquid every 2 weeks from March to September fertilize or give bonsai manure lumps
- At the beginning of spring, cut the branches into shape and wire them carefully if necessary
Every 3-4 years, repot the cedar bonsai into a larger bowl and use this opportunity to cut the roots back by about a third. As a substrate, we recommend a mixture of bonsai soil and a third of Akadama soil and Lava granules.(€ 14.00 at Amazon *)
How does a cedar root?
The cedar thrives as a heart root. According to this definition, it develops a root system that penetrates in all directions. The main root extends a little deeper in the ground, while the fine roots sprout far near the surface. When viewed in cross-section, the shape is reminiscent of a heart.
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Nice varieties
- Blue Atlas Cedar: A popular type of cedar with steel-blue needles, robust winter hardiness and a dense habit
- Glauca pendula: A small garden form of the blue atlas cedar that rarely grows higher than 5 meters
- Fastigiata: Magnificent columnar cedar with a blue needle dress, ideal for the small garden and container culture
- Golden Horizon: Majestic Himalayan cedar with green-yellow needles and an inclined top
- Feelin Blue: Decorative dwarf form of the Himalayan cedar, with blue needles and delicate growth up to 1 meter
- Nana: Mighty Lebanon cedar for large parks that can reach heights of up to 40 meters when old
- Variegata: virtuoso incense cedar, which smells wonderfully, with a mixed green and yellow needle dress