The melon pear, also known as pepino, belongs to the nightshade family. It originally comes from South America, but is now commercially grown in numerous countries and can also be an asset to the home garden. From cultivation to pruning, we provide complete care instructions from A to Z.
Location
The pear melon, which comes from South America, needs three factors in particular:
- warmth
- Light or sun
- protection
The plant does not tolerate cold wind and frost. A protected location near a house wall or larger plants that can keep the wind away is therefore ideal. In addition, the melon pear should always be cultivated in the bucket. It is important that the wall or other plants do not cast too much shade on the nightshade plant. A winter garden can also be a suitable location. However, sufficient ventilation and the possibility of fertilization must be ensured here if the plants are to bear fruit.
Tip: The plant can be planted outdoors, but is then only annual or must be dug up before the onset of the first frost in autumn and overwintered in the house.
Outdoors
Due to their sensitivity to frost, the melon pears may only be taken outdoors when frost or late frost is no longer to be expected. In most regions this is only the case after the Ice Saints.
Note: The plants can be taken outside during the day on a plant trolley or a furniture trolley and put back inside at night to protect them from frost. This is particularly useful for older and larger plants and makes work easier.
Substrate
The pear melon needs a loose and humus-rich substrate. For example, plant soil mixed with coconut fibers and an addition of well-rotted compost are well suited. It can also be useful to add sand to prevent the substrate from compacting and to make it more permeable.
In any case, it is important that a drainage system is also installed in the planter, because the melon pear does not tolerate waterlogging. Suitable materials for the drainage layer at the bottom of the pot or bucket are ceramic or pottery shards, coarse gravel and stones.
Planter
The planter
should be chosen in size and texture so that it offers stability and stability but is not too large. Because a large pot or bucket promotes root growth, but does not stimulate fruit formation. It also makes sense to repot annually, in which the planter is only slightly larger than the previous one.to water
The pear melon needs a lot of water, but, as mentioned, does not tolerate waterlogging. It can and should therefore be watered regularly and well, but always in moderation. The so-called thumb test is ideal. A thumb or other finger is lightly pressed into the surface of the substrate. If the earth feels damp or even sticks to the finger, it does not have to be poured again. If, on the other hand, the top layer is dry and crumbly, the crop should be watered. It is best to use soft, low-lime water. This means that the following sources are suitable:
- collected rainwater
- stale or soft tap water
- Pond or aquarium water
In the case of water from the garden pond or aquarium, however, care must be taken to ensure that it does not contain any potentially harmful additives.
Fertilize
Anyone who uses water from a pond or aquarium for watering can refrain from using other fertilizers. Because food leftovers, components of plants and excrement of aquatic organisms contain plenty of nutrients in the water. Alternative fertilizers for the pear melon are:
- Complete fertilizer for fruit and vegetable plants
- well-rotted compost
- low nitrogen fertilizers
- Plant manure, for example from nettles
During the growth phase - from around the end of May to the beginning of September - the plant can be fertilized every two weeks. After repotting or changing soil, additional fertilizers can be dispensed with for one to two months. The prerequisite for this is of course that a nutrient-rich soil or an addition of compost is chosen.
Cut
Cutting back the melon pear serves two purposes. On the one hand, the removal of flowerless shoots, the so-called pruning, can direct the power of the plant into the formation of further flowers and shoots. The shortening of all
other shoots can limit the size of the plant and also favor the formation of larger fruits.In and of itself, however, a waste is not absolutely necessary. Still, it makes sense. Controlling size and girth, as well as managing the amount of force used, are two key reasons for doing this. Another factor that speaks in favor of blending is keeping the pepino plant healthy. Removing damaged or dead shoots reduces the risk of disease and parasite infestation. However, there are a few factors to consider. These points are:
- Use clean cutting tools, it is best to disinfect the blades
- choose dry weather for the cut
- In the case of heavier cuts, provide the cut surfaces with charcoal ash in order to achieve a quick seal and quick drying
Multiply
There are two ways to propagate pear melons. On the one hand, the propagation via seeds from the fruits. On the other hand, propagation via cuttings. Propagation via seeds requires a little more patience, but is otherwise quite easy. Propagation via cuttings is more complex, but requires less time.
1. For propagation via seeds, the seeds can be obtained directly from the fruits or purchased from specialist retailers.
2. The seeds are placed in potting soil and only lightly covered with substrate.
3. The planters are placed in a warm and bright place and the soil is kept moist. Temperatures around 20 ° C are ideal. The first germs should show up after two to three weeks.
4. When the plants have reached a height of about ten centimeters, they can be moved into the more nutrient-rich substrate described above.
Cuttings
If propagation via cuttings is chosen, the procedure is as follows:
1. Shoots about ten centimeters long are cut from the mother plant. A knife or scissors with clean and very sharp blades must be used for this.
2. The shoots are placed about four centimeters deep in a suitable substrate. For example, sand or potting soil are suitable.
3. The substrate is well moistened, but should not be waterlogged. As an alternative to the moist substrate, the cuttings can also be placed directly in water.
4. The substrate is checked daily and poured if necessary. If the substrate was not used, it should be changed every two to three days. Otherwise the water could turn into liquid manure and the increase would not work.
5. The planter or glass is in turn placed in a light and warm place.
6. After about three weeks, enough roots should have formed that the young cuttings can be planted in the ground.
harvest
When the fruits of Solanum muricatum can be harvested depends on the variety. The popular sugar gold bears ripe fruits around late summer, which can be eaten with the peel. The harvest time extends into autumn. The last fruits should be harvested in the winter quarters so that the plant is not damaged by frost.
In addition to the variety, the weather and preparation are also decisive. A Pepino that is preferred in the house, which receives a lot of light and warmth and is protected in summer, is provided with sufficient water and fertilizer, can ripen fruit earlier in summer
wear. It is also beneficial if the maintenance includes cutting the buds or flowerless shoots, so that more strength is available to develop the fruit. The fruits can be removed or cut off by hand. The ripeness can be recognized by the fact that the melon pears give off a fruity smell and give way slightly when pressed.Repot
The melon pear should be repotted once a year in order to provide it with fresh substrate and, if necessary, more space. An ideal time for the maintenance measure is the transition from the winter quarters to the field. However, special features do not have to be taken into account. The pear melon is simply treated as follows:
1. The plant is removed from the pot and from the earth.
2. The old substrate should be removed as much as possible. Either a brush can be used for this or the earth can be rinsed off.
3. If necessary, damaged or dead roots can be removed.
4. If necessary, a new, larger pot can be used. In any case, however, a new substrate should be used. In addition, the drainage in the bucket should not be forgotten.
In the first time after repotting, additional fertilization can be dispensed with, as the fresh substrate provides sufficient nutrients.
Overwinter
Hibernating the melon pear is very easy, all you need is a suitable room. Before the first frost in autumn, the plant is moved inside. It should be in a room with between five and ten degrees. In addition, the room should be as bright as possible. A bright basement or the stairwell can be suitable.
Those who do not have such premises available can also have the plant overwinter in a nursery. Fertilization is stopped and only enough water is poured so that the substrate does not dry out. The amount of water is not increased again until spring.
Tip: If there are still fruits on the plant in autumn, they will also ripen during the winter. So they can then be harvested when they are ripe and remain on the crop for as long as they are.
Care errors, diseases and parasites
As a nightshade plant, the pear melon can show the same diseases and pests as tomatoes and potatoes. In addition, care errors can also cause problems for the plants. The harmful and debilitating influences include:
- Fertilizers with too high a nitrogen content stimulate leaf growth, but can have a negative effect on fruit formation
- Colorado beetles that eat the leaves
- Potato powdery mildew, which can lead to a general weakening of the plant and manifests itself as coverings on the leaves and shoots
- Lice, which can cause discolored spots
- Snails that eat the shoots and leaves, especially on young plants
- Waterlogging, which can cause rot
- Tomato bronze stain virus that can cause the plant to die
A review of the culture conditions and care should be the first step in any damage. In the case of pests, home remedies can already be sufficient to combat them. For illnesses, home remedies or special remedies from the trade can be used.
Suitable varieties
A particularly suitable variety of melon pear is the already mentioned Sugar gold. The plants reach a height of about three feet, are self-fruiting and you can even eat the peel of the fruit. With optimal care conditions and a suitable location, it can bear fruit from summer to autumn.